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  1. #1
    hungoverracer's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Needing a 2011, 150 speedster wiring diagram

    So hears the scoop, I'm needing a wiring diagram to locate a TRUE ingnition source. The reason is I am adding two Odyseey Marine batterys http://www.odysseyfactory.com/marinespecs.html, (34m-pc1500) and place a battery isolater to only charge my main battery and not the other two batteries, (so I don't damage the magnito by trying to charge all three batteries). The isolator requires a true ignition source. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Note I planing on putting all this in within 14, hours.


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  3. #3
    hungoverracer's Avatar
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    So, this summer I upgraged my audio in my Seadoo speedster to an Infinity wake tower system. This was freaking great, it sounded great, real crisp and clean sounding. My only issue is that while laying around being lazy in the lake for an hour or so, listening to the tunes it was killing my battery. I knew that this would be an issue that would arise, with only running one battery. I was on a mission to find a reliable marine grade battery that could take the punishment of long hours of listening to music. I looked into optima, what I found, is yes they are great, but the price was a little steep. Then while contemplating what to do I was talking to a friend, who was into car audio. He stated that he had a couple of fairly new oydessey marine batteryies he was no longer using for a good price. So, today another really good friend, help me make a battery tray from scratch. It turned out really good and I have to brag about it alittle because he did such a really good job.

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  4. #4
    hungoverracer's Avatar
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    still looking for a true ignition source for a battery isolator hook up, diagram was of no use, but I'm still thankfull.

  5. #5
    hungoverracer's Avatar
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    this might explain why I'm looking for a diagram. I found this in another sight where another person was having same issue.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    "I am putting on the finishing touches on my PAC battery isolator. I have added a second battery only for the radio. My question is this....I have to run a lead to switched power. For example when the key is in the on position and the boat is running the isolator will open allowing for both batteries to charge. When the key is off or in accessory mode the isolator will close allowing the stereo to only operate off the second battery. I looked under the ignition and noticed the following wires: red, red with yellow stripe, two purples, and black. I am assuming the red is start power and the red with yellow is maybe accessory? Can somebody help me so I put the isolator turn on lead to only switched/on power. Thanks. "

    any help will be usefull

  6. #6
    k-dub's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hungoverracer View Post
    So, this summer I upgraged my audio in my Seadoo speedster to an Infinity wake tower system. This was freaking great, it sounded great, real crisp and clean sounding. My only issue is that while laying around being lazy in the lake for an hour or so, listening to the tunes it was killing my battery. I knew that this would be an issue that would arise, with only running one battery. I was on a mission to find a reliable marine grade battery that could take the punishment of long hours of listening to music. I looked into optima, what I found, is yes they are great, but the price was a little steep. Then while contemplating what to do I was talking to a friend, who was into car audio. He stated that he had a couple of fairly new oydessey marine batteryies he was no longer using for a good price. So, today another really good friend, help me make a battery tray from scratch. It turned out really good and I have to brag about it alittle because he did such a really good job.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Picture 087.jpg 
Views:	284 
Size:	91.5 KB 
ID:	274951Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Picture 086.jpg 
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Size:	100.7 KB 
ID:	274952
    Pretty cool man. The one thing I would reconsider is how close that battery is to the exhaust manifold. You might want to consider changing the orientation so it's lengthwise to buy you alittle more room between the battery and manifold.

    The ignition source is probably going to be tough, it doesn't have a switch that provides "ignition" power like a car would, it all happens in the ECU when you push the start button which is, as I'm sure you realize, only momentary.

  7. #7
    hungoverracer's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input thinking of using a switch so on the ON pos, it will charge the batteryies

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