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  1. #1

    Oil in Water Even after Oil Tank Upgrade

    So I had water getting in my original Oil tank on my 2004 MSX 150. I replaced my oil tank with the upgrade kit I ordered from EBL. I cleaned out my intercooler and replaced my Map Sensor and the other sensor on the intake from all the oil I had induced from the previous oil tank. I flushed my oil system with 20W-50 4 times and then changed the filter and added 3.5 quarts of Mobil 1 15W-50. I ran it today for about 40 minutes and noticed I am still getting water in my oil. When I started my oil level was perfect on my dipstick, then after the 40 minutes of running the oil was all the way to the top of the dipstick. I verified all my hoses are connected to the right places in accordance with the directions I received from EBL. Now I am totally confused. Could it be a bad tank or could this be caused by something else. I have heard some ideas of a bad water pump seal, but I don't think that's my issue since my coolant level is not going down. Any assistance would be great.


  2. #2
    Kosh's Avatar
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    Is the oil still milky? It does take a bit to clean all the moisture out of the motor, possibly a few more heat cycles and leave your cap off between rides help it breath.

    You Said the level was perfect, do you mean it was just touching the bottom of the stick? When run and with some temperature it will rise.

    The only other place I have seen raw water enter these motors was the hole in the cyclone, but you need water in the hull and that style of cyclone to let that happen

  3. #3
    Yes the Oil is still milky. As far as the oil level being perfect (I have the upgraded Oil Tank) I put in 3.5 quarts just like the service manual calls out. Since I have the upgraded tank my cyclone is gone. But I do have an update. I checked my intercooler and there was freshwater in my intercooler, no oil though. Is it possible for that freshwater in the intercooler to pass through the intake into the engine and get mixed with the oil? I pulled the intercooler and found one of the small tubes that run through the middle of the intercooler heat exchanger leaking. I would assume this is where the freshwater in the intercooler is coming from. My plan is to have that tube sealed off so it does not leak any longer. Thoughts?

  4. #4
    Kosh's Avatar
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    I would not imagine too much water entering the crankcase via the intake system, I am at a loss to offer a sugestion to where water is comming from. If you had said it was still turning milky (with out increase in volume ) i would suggest some extended running and another oil change. repeated oil changes alone will not remove or the contaminated oil. I have seen the shity mess clinging to the cylinder head cover like it was it's last chance of survival.

    From memory Seadoo recommend clamping an oil cooler water hose and runnng the engine to allow the oil to 'heat' up and evaporate the water when they get a contamination problem.

  5. #5
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Well... I'd first address the IC leak. Pull it out, repair, reassemble and pressure test both air and water sides. Then put it back in, change oil again and hope for the best. Like Kosh said, I can't see how water from your IC could get past the combustion chamber and into the crankcase. It'd be like water injection... flashed to steam and exiting with the exhaust. I guess if there was enough water...

  6. #6
    Thank you both for the help. This is what I did. I pulled the intercooler and fixed the leak. I tested it and there were no leaks. Not sure what pressure to test the water side too so I hooked up a hose to the input and let it run for about 30 minutes at full blast. The Air side of the intercooler was completely dry. I reinstalled the intercooler and changed the oil. I plan on changing it at least 2 or 3 more times before I change the filter and add the Mobil 1 Synthetic oil. If this don't fix it I am completely confused. The last thing I can think if this don't work is that I may had received a bad Oil Tank upgrade from EBL even though it was brand new.

  7. #7
    OK things are looking up. So reinstalled the repaired intercooler yesterday and today I drained all the watered down oil and filled it up with 3.5 quarts of cheap 20w-50. I checked the oil level and it was right at the max mark. Ran it for about 30 minutes and viola 0 water in the intercooler and the oil level was at the exact same spot as when I started. Drained the oil and again filled it up with 3.5 quarts of 20w-50. Ran it again for about 30 minutes. Guess what absolutely no water in the intercooler and oil level at the exact same spot as when I started, oh and even better news; the oil had almost no white in it whatsoever. I plan on running one more cycle of cheap oil through it tomorrow then in with the good stuff and a new filter. I am so glad to finally have this thing working right. I have been fighting with this thing since it was rolled 3 years ago. Without these forums it may have been fixed sooner by a dealer, but it would have cost me hell of a lot more money. With the help of Greenhulk I was able to do it all myself. THANK YOU EVERYONE!

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Do you know about the correct oil level markings to use when you put in the correct oil?

    https://sites.google.com/site/polari...10-and-msx-150

  9. #9
    I do, but now that I have the upgraded oil tank and I did NOT connect the overflow hose to the air box, this isn't really a concern any longer is it?

  10. #10
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Glad to hear you're getting it cleaned out.

    I too wondered about the oil level markings regarding the new upgraded oil tank. I haven't read anyone mentioning the new tank. I suspect it has correct markings on it. I should be getting mine soon in the mail.

    And like you, I too plan to leave off the hose connecting the rollover tank (used to be on top of oil separator) to the airbox... so there shouldn't be any way for the engine to ingest any oil anymore.

    That said... I think I'll still plan to keep oil at the lower mark for full.

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