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  1. #1

    Run MSX 150 on Trailer out of Water

    OK all some of may have you been following all the Water in Oil issues I have been dealing with. I think (Hope) I have all that fixed, but now I need to cycle a bunch of oil through my engine to get rid of the Water. Here's my problem the closest boat ramp is about 30 minutes away and it's only a single ramp. SO I really have a hard time staying there long enough with my ski in the water running before I need to move for someone to put in or out. Is there any way to run this thing on the trailer at home. I know I will need a flush kit, but I have also read that is not the best. I seen one video where a guy had a flush kit hooked up and also a hose running under the ski somewhere. Any ideas? This would really be a lifesaver. Thanks.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Hmmm. Number one issue is to ensure that the garden hose flow is indeed providing proper cooling for the engine. I am not familiar with exactly how the Weber engine cooling works, so I cannot comment.

    The other aspect that needs water is the through-hull and jet pump seals and bearings. If you could rig up something that directed a modest water jet forward alongside the drive shaft from the intake grate that should keep the through-hull seals cool.

    Another water stream directed at the impeller/stator hub should keep those seals and bearings happy.

    Or you could remove the jet pump and shift the drive shaft backwards far enough to disengage from the engine coupler. Make sure the drive shaft doesn't spin without the jet pump to support the other end of the shaft.

  3. #3
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    I also saw a video on YouTube where the guy was working on his MSX150. He had a hose connected to the flush kit installed in the hull... and a second hose stuck up in the intake grate spraying on the DS and jet pump. Not sure how long he ran it but seems to work for him.

    I agree with K447. With as long as it sounds like you're going to need to run the engine, I'd pull the jet pump (4 long bolts) and slide the DS to the rear to uncouple from the engine coupler. Then you only need a single hose to feed water to engine and you can run as long as you like. Pulling the jet pump takes like 5 minutes so sounds worth it.

    As for the flush kit, do you have one installed? If so use it. If not, what I would do is pull the fresh water feed hose that comes from the jet pump (battery side of rear hump) and hook my hose directly to it... no "Tee" or anything. So your hose will now provide the fresh water under pressure, just like the jet pump does when in the water (and when the jet pump is running). Only condition is pressure. I wouldn't run the hose full-open... the average house pressure is 55psi which I thought I read somewhere is more than the 35psi (??) the jet pump pushes through the fresh water circuit. So I'd run the hose half-open and check for a good exiting water flow out the back. Don't forget "on the hose" starting/stopping sequence. Engine on - hose on - hose off - engine off.

    Good luck!

  4. #4
    simmy's Avatar
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    hi,dont run it to long on the trailer,even with the flush kit attatched,and the jetpump removed,
    i melted my turbo temp sensor after 10 minutes of running,
    this ski needs to be in lake drawing plenty of water through the fresh water system,

  5. #5
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Good advice Simmy. Thanks for sharing your experience with the running on the flush kit too long.

    Was it the temp switch (rear side of exhaust manifold) or O2 sensor (Lambda probe) that you melted? Melted the wiring connector?

    Cheers!

  6. #6

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    I flushed 3 or 4 complete oil changes through my engine sitting on the trailer 3 years ago. Each change cycle was around a half hour while on the garden hose. In ignorance I did not do anything about the bearing seal. I have not had any problem since that procedure, but the ski sees only about 25 hours per year of use.

    Cannot comment on the turbo sensor issue. My reference to "not any problem" was in regard to the seal. I still have turbo boost 'cutout' problems that preceeded the flushing procedure.

  7. #7

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    Another alternative, that I have used to clean up the oil is to do an extended oil change. To start, fully charge the battery, pull both plugs and disconnect the fuel injectors. Do a regular oil change. When the oil is pumped out, add another three quarts to the tank and pump that oil out and repeat until all that comes out is clean oil. I ran 7 quarts of Walmart's finest 20w-50 through my engine and it picked up all the water along its way. Then I refiled with Mobil 1 15w-50 and was all set. With the plugs pulled and injectors unplugged, there is very little load on the starter motor.

  8. #8
    Redrum's Avatar
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    When running cycles of oil to clean out the engine with the 20W-50, it does not need to be full synthetic does it? And then can I put it in water and run it hard for a half hour and then do oil change? Or does it have to be only at idle speed?

    Thanks.

  9. #9

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    Ideally, it would be best to not run it all until you gotten as much water out of the oil as possible. That water will display the oil that is protecting the metal parts. The extended oil change I did worked very well for me. I used oil from two 5-quart jugs of Walmart brand 20w-50 to pick up the water I had in the oil. When that oil started to come out clean, I added 1 quart of 15w-50 Mobile 1 synthetic oil and keep pumping until there was virtually nothing left. I am sure some "regular" oil remained, but it was very little. Then I changed the filter and refilled with synthetic. Then I ran it at low speed in the water for about 10 minutes and checked out the oil. Everything looked great and I was done.

  10. #10
    Redrum's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ride04msx View Post
    Ideally, it would be best to not run it all until you gotten as much water out of the oil as possible. That water will display the oil that is protecting the metal parts. The extended oil change I did worked very well for me. I used oil from two 5-quart jugs of Walmart brand 20w-50 to pick up the water I had in the oil. When that oil started to come out clean, I added 1 quart of 15w-50 Mobile 1 synthetic oil and keep pumping until there was virtually nothing left. I am sure some "regular" oil remained, but it was very little. Then I changed the filter and refilled with synthetic. Then I ran it at low speed in the water for about 10 minutes and checked out the oil. Everything looked great and I was done.
    Thanks for the info!

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