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  1. #1

    Polaris SL 1050 - Removing Seperate Black Ground Wire

    I have a 1997 Polaris SL 1050 that has the OLD style ignition system aka has not had the update yet. I'm just trying to get it going in the temporary and will update the entire system later. It puked one of the capacitors in the old CDI and I have a good one with the same PN that will be arriving today.

    My question is should I do the part of the update now that removes the separate smaller ground wire to the battery negative terminal as stated below or wait till I do the update. Thanks!

    "...Locate the ground wire between the battery negative and electrical box terminal board. Disconnect or cut ground wire. Wrap remaining wire or open end in electrical tape and secure away from any source of ground. Failure to do so may cause premature stator failure..."

  2. #2
    I'm addicted to Polaris PWC ghostinstallations's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Rochester, New York
    I believe that wire is required for your old style ignition to operate correctly. The update kit makes a change to the grounding of the stator assembly, thus the requirement for the smaller wire to be removed.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    My understanding is that the original domestic engine wiring with the original ignition system provided two ground paths for the electrical box. One Black wire went directly to the battery negative post.

    Another Black wire runs from the electrical box as part of the stator wire bundle to the stator, and through the stator mounting bolt to the engine case.

    Then there is a third very heavy Black cable that runs from the battery negative post to the engine case.

    Together these three Black wires make a loop. As long as every Black wire connection is 100% solid, clean, and fully conducting, there is no problem. But this is a watercraft, and corrosion happens.

    If either end of that heavy black battery cable becomes loose or corroded then the heavy electric current required by the engine starter motor cannot flow through that black cable. In the updated domestic engine wiring, the engine simply does not crank properly if that heavy black cable is not good.

    But, in the original wiring method, that starter motor will instead draw the required heavy electric current through those much thinner black wires. The current flows from battery negative into the electrical box, then out of the box and down the stator black wire to the engine case.

    The starter motor now cranks the engine (not as well as it should with a working ground cable, of course) while those thin black wires get really, really hot. Soon enough the thin black wires are toasted and the engine not only cannot start, it will likely shut down if it was running when the wire finally fails.

    By removing the thin Black wire between electrical box and battery negative post you are forcing the electrical system to utilize the engine case itself as the single common ground point. There is no alternative 'back door' ground path. And there is no risk of an electrical fire or toasted black stator wiring.

    Note; One way to create a bad situation, regardless of whether you have done the update or not, is to allow the metal shell of the electrical box to touch the battery positive post. A battery short to the case will cause the thin black wires to become fried in seconds. There is a reason the electrical box is securely mounted and the battery has a plastic cover!

  4. #4

    Black wires, ignition upgrades, and all that

    Boy am I glad I found this site! Hi folks - I'm new to this forum and to PWCs in general. My son bought an SL1050 "for a song!" and brought it home to show dear old Dad, who is now having to restore it. I'll get to the point - the ebox was a mess, now restored, terminal board cleaned and new brass blade contacts riveted in, upgrade kit purchased and installed and here's the question: the upgrade instructions say to cut the thin black wire and ground the stator to the ebox. Is this ring terminal to be connected to any mounting bolt in the box? Also, it appears that a wire from the CDI is tied here as well, but I find no similar terminal from the CDI. Just one more question: I've been studying this and associated sites for any knowledge I can get. If anyone could recommend a page which might show any other wiring mods I need to do, I'd be very grateful! Thanks again for a GREAT resource. Don't know how I'd have got this far without it!

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