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Thread: idling problem

  1. #1

    idling problem

    Hi guys, new to the forum and PWCs and looking to buy a SLT750. Original post is here:
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...=1#post1972778

    The compression numbers looked ok (120,130,120) but it won't idle without lots of throttle pumping.
    I think a clue is the front cylinder was warm and the other two were cold after running for about 1-2 minutes with water. I checked spark (visually) on all three and the sparks all looked equal. Then we ran it for about 20 secs without water, and the center and rear heated up a little but the front was noticeably warmer.

    I am leaning towards buying it because I am suspecting a fuel related problem (which I can handle that kind of repair myself) and was wondering if anyone had any opinion on where they would look first. I have some ideas but would love to get some opinions from you great people . Thanks in advance!!


  2. #2
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shemp View Post
    Hi guys, new to the forum and PWCs and looking to buy a SLT750. Original post is here:
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...=1#post1972778

    The compression numbers looked ok (120,130,120) but it won't idle without lots of throttle pumping.
    I think a clue is the front cylinder was warm and the other two were cold after running for about 1-2 minutes with water. I checked spark (visually) on all three and the sparks all looked equal. Then we ran it for about 20 secs without water, and the center and rear heated up a little but the front was noticeably warmer.

    I am leaning towards buying it because I am suspecting a fuel related problem (which I can handle that kind of repair myself) and was wondering if anyone had any opinion on where they would look first. I have some ideas but would love to get some opinions from you great people . Thanks in advance!!
    Idle should be around 1250 in the water. The front (Mag) will get warmer than the center and rear (PTO) when running on a hose, especially if you are hooking up at the water rail connection. Best way to tell how they have been running is by checking the piston wash. Do a search and you will find info on it. Also, the link i provided earlier really is the fundamental starting point.

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    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    How much do you think you can get it for?

  4. #4
    yeah thanks. I read most of all on that link you sent. Great info!

    I checked the top of the pistons thru the spark plug hole with a flashlight and all three were extremely clean (from what I could see thru the hole).

  5. #5
    He is asking $400, probably not less than $300-350.

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    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shemp View Post
    He is asking $400, probably not less than $300-350.
    Price seems good. Pistons clean seems odd.... By clean, do you mean silver metal, or just no build up or debris? If has been running a while, I would expect the pistons to have black on them, which is normal, Unless it was just rebuilt, which is a key question. If it was recently rebuilt, you will want to know why, and if the reason for failure was found and corrected. It is not uncommon for pistons to get holes in them, sieze, etc. They can be replaced without the actual cause repaired which will just lead to another failure....

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFishCrisis View Post
    Price seems good. Pistons clean seems odd.... By clean, do you mean silver metal, or just no build up or debris? If has been running a while, I would expect the pistons to have black on them, which is normal, Unless it was just rebuilt, which is a key question. If it was recently rebuilt, you will want to know why, and if the reason for failure was found and corrected. It is not uncommon for pistons to get holes in them, sieze, etc. They can be replaced without the actual cause repaired which will just lead to another failure....
    Clean meaning silver. Very good point though. He said the previous owner had it serviced but did not know the extent of the service unfortunately.

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    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shemp View Post
    Clean meaning silver. Very good point though. He said the previous owner had it serviced but did not know the extent of the service unfortunately.
    Doesn't take long for those pistons to get dark. It hasn't been used much if at all since the repairs. I would expect to perform the fuel system upgrades, rebuild the carbs, and pull the heads and jugs and replace gaskets to see what is going on and to make sure everything is in place. All of that will run you around $400 in parts alone to perform......... Have you been able to get a good look at the impeller? Intake grate under the ski?

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFishCrisis View Post
    Doesn't take long for those pistons to get dark. It hasn't been used much if at all since the repairs. I would expect to perform the fuel system upgrades, rebuild the carbs, and pull the heads and jugs and replace gaskets to see what is going on and to make sure everything is in place. All of that will run you around $400 in parts alone to perform......... Have you been able to get a good look at the impeller? Intake grate under the ski?
    ok thanks. I'm looking more into the links about piston related issues now. Lots to read...

    Yea I got a good look with a flashlight at the intake and impeller. I didn't see any nicks or chips. Seemed to move freely.

    Like I mentioned, he said it ran strong for a 1/2 a season before the stalling problem, then he garaged it. So I guess it's odd that the pistons are so clean... I'll have to inquire about that some more.

  10. #10
    If you just shined a light through the hole it probably wasnt good enough anyhow, I have a 300 Lumen light and it wont do the trick, gotta have a snake light. $400 bucks is worth it either way, can sell parts for more than that if it turns out a flop

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