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  1. #1
    64physhy's Avatar
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    Plumbing JD Intercooler

    I've been searching the forums looking for this, but can't find it. How should my JD Intercooler be plumbed? I've been running it with the stock lines (inlet going ito back, outlet off the front to pisser). I've blown the outlet hose off a couple times, so I'm thinking maybe I should find a new way to plumb it. All the kits I see in the store for increasing flow to the IC are for a stock one. Will those work, or is there a way to do it myself? I bought the IC used with no instructions.


  2. #2
    Lightning Struck's Avatar
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    Definitely run a dedicated line and a VXR water splitter. The stock 4 way splitter has an extremely small orfice, so even though it's 5/8 line, it really on flowing through a 1/4" orfice.

    You'll need a strainer plate that's drilled and tap'd for an NPT fitting, a thru hull fitting, some 1/2" hose, and clamps. I personally use Oetiker clamps on everything, they're easy to install, and about the most positive of any hose clamp.

  3. #3
    Kelly_A's Avatar
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    Lightening's post covered what you'll need. Here are parts links, if you're not sure what you're looking for they can be hard to find:

    Additional pump strainer: http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=1399

    VX splitter (item #4) http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....=13&A=199&B=15

    Through hull barb: http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=1278

    Just add hose and oetiker clamps.

    Instructions for locating the thru-hull barb and installing the strainer are available here (Riva instructions for their cooler, but same procedure - begins about line 24): http://www.rivaracing.com/instructions/ry17040_icuk.pdf

    Here's a link to a thread with more information about installing the dedicated line and alternate mounting locations for the through-hull barb: http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=168662
    Last edited by Kelly_A; 06-30-2012 at 03:11 PM. Reason: Changed link to strainer in Jerry's store, thanks Kyle for finding the link.

  4. #4
    kyle s's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lightning Struck View Post
    Definitely run a dedicated line and a VXR water splitter. The stock 4 way splitter has an extremely small orfice, so even though it's 5/8 line, it really on flowing through a 1/4" orfice.

    You'll need a strainer plate that's drilled and tap'd for an NPT fitting, a thru hull fitting, some 1/2" hose, and clamps. I personally use Oetiker clamps on everything, they're easy to install, and about the most positive of any hose clamp.
    I have the fizzle IC and have this set up.I also use the stock outlet and never had a problem,you def need better clamps.The only diffrence is I have a groco strainer on the intake hose before the IC(obviously),I recommend that.I was def a little worried about drilling through the hull for the new cooling line but its very easy.As long as you use a shit ton of sealent(3M 5200 marine fastcure)its all good.

  5. #5
    kyle s's Avatar
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  6. #6
    Yellow93's Avatar
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    Careful with the Groco strainer. I have one on my FZS but I saw Enforcers blow up on him at Mudbug and damn near sink the boat.

  7. #7
    kyle s's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yellow93 View Post
    Careful with the Groco strainer. I have one on my FZS but I saw Enforcers blow up on him at Mudbug and damn near sink the boat.
    Do you think he was spinning over 8300pms.I like my strainer,I find so much shit in mine.

  8. #8
    Kelly_A's Avatar
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    At one point, I had Grocos on both the engine cooling and dedicated IC lines. Both mounted side-by-side, high on the back side of the mid wall, behind the electrical box. The engine cooling strainer had a strange problem with back flow and engine overheating, following even brief idles, after a restart. I think there just wasn't enough pressure to re-prime the Groco until you could give it throttle. Once I pulled that strainer the problem ceased. More a problem if you have to start frequently in a no-wake zone and can't rev the throttle to start prime from the pump to the Groco. Relocating the Groco much lower in the hull probably would have resolved the problem also.

    Fortunately, pulling that strainer gave me a spare polycarbonate bowl since the one on my dedicated IC line failed. It's easy to drop or lose the o-ring when cleaning out the strainer bowl. If you tighten the bowl minus the o-ring it's easy to get a crack in the threaded part of the bowl. The crack will spread over time, and (presumably) under pressure, until the bowl fails catastrophically.

    If you opt for a Groco on your line, I'd recommend caring a spare bowl (and o-ring) somewhere in your ski. It's good idea to closely check your bowl for cracks each time you empty too.

  9. #9
    kyle s's Avatar
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    Hmmm Ill have to keep a close eye on it.

  10. #10
    64physhy's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the replies. I had been looking for the pump strainer in the GH store, but couldn't find it. Thank you for that link. Whenever I feel the water coming out of the outlet pisser, it always feels cool (the IC pisser) so is it really necessary to run a dedicated line? Does anyone have a schematic on how it should be with the parts listed throughout this thread?

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