06-30-2012, 04:58 PM #1
R&d fuel pressure regulator kit???
Does anything have the instructions manual on how to install the R&D fuel pressure regulator kit? Would i also need to purchase R&D in tank fuel pressure block?
2011 FZS - Upgrades done: Riva Stage one ( Performance power filter kit, Intake manifold upgrade kit, free flow exhaust kit, pump seal kit, stainless steel intake grate, Pro-series dynafly impeller, performance ride plate), Pro series water box, blow off valve kit. ( waiting for flashed R1 ECU)
07-01-2012, 06:40 AM #2
I read some of your earlier posts about the upgrades you have planned. I'd thought you were going R2 or R3?
Before you get concerned about purchasing and installing an aftermarket FPR, wait and get some numbers with a AFR gauge after the R1 is on. One of the "strengths" of the R1 is that it sacrifices some performance and RPMs to keep the ski safely rideable without additional mods.
I gotta say it's extremely unlikely with the R1 you're going to need to add fuel to address a WOT lean condition or worry about the injector duty cycle. Even after you upgrade to an AM IC and go w/ a low boost impeller, you're most likely still going to be OK on your AFRs.
07-01-2012, 02:38 PM #3
Kelly thanks for the post. i was planning to getting into stage two... at the same time i was advise to install the FPR.. so i was just looking into how it would all work if i did end up getting into it since we don't have a decent store to do these upgrades forms us and i have never opened up a ski to do any kind of modes before my FZS..
07-01-2012, 06:18 PM #4
Here is a good story. The stock fuel pressure at idle on a stock engine with the stock regulator is 51lbs. with the AFR's in the low to mid 12's. On my engine with the 1.9l big bore, RC2 cams, adjustable gears in the 13A intake and * exhaust and C5 wheel, depending on the climate and conditions, the fuel pressure at idle will vary between 48-52lbs. If the water temp is below 65 and the Air temp is below 70* and humidity is low, I will run about 51lbs with rising rate. Once the water starts to warm up and as the air temps and/or humidity rises, the pressure needs to be lowered in order to compensate. If i stay with 51lbs. constant, the engine will continue to run richer and richer until it starts to low idle and stall out and it also fouls plugs.
The stock engine with with the stock regulator seems to compensate for the climate changes on it own where the mechanical regulator needs to be adjusted to compensate if you want maximum performance. I left my regulator alone at 50lbs for 2 weeks and my AFR's went from 12-12.2 at idle to 11.3-11.4 and my WOT AFR's went from 11.7-11.9 to 11.1-11.3. The average air temps went from 75 to 80+ with higher humidity and the water temps went from 65-66 to 70-71. Plus as the engine heat saturates, the engine runs richer as well so keep that in mind. The warmer the water and air temps, the more heat saturation the engine will see and the richer things get. i lowered the fuel pressure to 48lbs. and my numbers came back.
Something else that indicates a richer than normal condition at idle is as the engine comes up to temp and richens up, the idle rpms will start to drop and depending on how rich the pressure is will depend on how rough it idles. For instance, when my pressure was set at 51lbs early on this year, the engine started and ran great and would idle at 1220-1260 consistantly. As the air and water temps come up, the idle started to go down. The sensors and throttle body eventually compensate and raise the idle up to where it belongs but the richer the mixture, the longer it takes and the lower the rpm while it waits to adjust. I have seen my idle as low as 980-1040 sometimes dipping into the 800's and recently has started to stall from time to time. All i did was knock a few lbs. out of the FPR and it came right back to firing up and running crisp each time. The times it seemed to be affected most with rich start ups and stalling was when the engine was up to temp and if you restart after a short break in the riding action. If I would chop the throttle jumping a wave before the engine has completely compensated for the richer mixture, the engine would stall before landing as the throttle chop would know the AFR's into the low 10's and it doesn't seem to like that much fuel at that low of an rpm and it stalls out but once it compensates after a minute or two, it is good to go.
Bottom line, the RRFPR is a great little tool to have for tuning ability but be prepared to adjust it more often than if you were to leave the stock fuel system intact and just run the ECU reflash. I run the R3 reflash on mine in case you were wondering. I love the RRFPR now that I have it figured out and can pretty much guess what pressure it needs to be at on any given day without the use of the AFR gauge. I use it to verify my changes but I have never been too lean anywhere with the RRFPR. I started at 51lbs with rising rate and was spot on in the spring and as the summer goes on,i knock it down a little at a time to keep the numbers where I want them. Hoped that helped to give you an idea of what to expect from the RRFPR.
07-02-2012, 04:29 AM #5
jetpilot. thanks.... at least now i know what more comes along with this mod...
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