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  1. #1

    No beeps with key - computer display ok

    Hi all, I was just out at the lake on my 2000 GTX (951 silver motor). Everything was running great until I stopped for 1/2 hr ... when I got back to take it out again there was no "double beep" when I put the key on. Also, when i put the key on the display stays blank (i tried 2 keys same result). If i press the start/stop button the display lights up and I get one beep but no starting. I can cycle through all the display functions ... but when ever i hit the start button I only get one beep. I've followed the proceeders to check the dess post switch and the ohm readings match what the manual says its supposed to be.

    Also, I've checked the advanced diagnostic code by pressing the start/stop 5 times ... put on the lanyard ... press start/stop again. The computer responds with 2 beeps. According to the manual this indicates bad connection or bad dess magnet/post. Is it possible to get the proper continuity checking the post but still be defective?

    I'm at a stand still ... could my computer be toast? Any thoughts is greatly appreciated, I want to test everything I can before buying a 500.00 replacement computer

  2. #2
    I would suspect the DESS post. What exactly did you do to check the DESS post?

  3. #3
    I checked for continuity between the connector of the DESS post and the post itself, here is what I'm seeing:

    continuity between white/grey and centre contact of the post (no key attached)
    continuity between black and outer ring contact of the post (no key attached)
    no continuity between black and black/yellow (tested at the connector of the DESS post, no key attached)
    continuity between black and black/yellow (tested at the connector of the DESS post, key attached)

  4. #4
    So this morning I figured i might as well give the wiring another look and see if I missed anything last night. First thing I did was plug the DESS harness back into the MPEM and I tried the key just for the hell of it. The Seadoo started ?!?!?! 2 beeps ... fired right up. Tried it 2 more times ... everything seems to be back to normal.

    Now I'm really confused ... Is it possible that even though the continuity checks of the DESS post are ok that its still bad? Has anyone else had a flaky DESS post that worked intermittently? Or is it possible the computer is ready to go?

    I'm going to order in a new post but I'm wondering if it could still be the computer.

  5. #5
    I was having intermittent problems with starting also on a 2007 GTI.... I replaced the DESS post and have not had any problems starting since...

  6. #6
    wotxxxsd's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Replace the read post...

  7. #7
    Thanks guys, I'm going to order a DESS post today.


  8. #8
    So my DESS post just arrived and although the BRP catalog says it includes all the terminals and the plastic plug ... in reality it does not. My dealer even called BRP to find out why and they said "error in computer". Of course it takes 5 days to get them in and I leave for my summer vacation in 2 days. I'm not 100% sure but my understanding of the DESS post electrical operation is:

    Black = ground
    Black/Yellow = Magnet proximity switch
    white/grey = Digital communication for key serial number

    My plan is to cut and solder the new post to the old connector, however the tech at the dealer told me i MUST use the terminals and crimp them on. They suggest soldering the wires will not work. I'm calling BS because the dealer tech also told me the security is based on a resistance value. Now I know in some other security systems they do use a resistance value BUT doesn't the DESS read digitally a serial number on the key?

    Is it okay to solder the wires to the old DESS plug? (with heat shrink of course)

  9. #9
    The tech at the dealer is BS'ing you. However, there is a valid reason to crimp the terminals on the replacement post, it is because a soldered joint will corrode easier in the presence of water. As long as you do a good soldering job, you will be fine. The best way to do this is to slide heat shrink over the wires before soldering, solder the wires, put a coat of RTV over the solder joint, slide the heat shrink over the joint, heat shrink it, which will squish out the RTV and form a waterproof joint.

    You are right, it is a digital serial number, has nothing to do with resistance.

  10. #10
    The solder joint corroding makes sense to me. Great tip on the RTV over the solder then heat shrink! I've used heat shrink that has the sealer already on the inside of it, but it can be hard to find.

    I'm new to these machines, so far without a doubt This forum has been waaaay more helpful and accurate than my local dealers.


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