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  1. #1

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    xl1200 way too smokey after complete overhaul

    I really need some help. I followed Oside Bill's recipe for a carb rebuild to the letter. New jets, correct turn out on the adjusters, new Riva aftermarket flame arrestors, accellerator pump disabled, D-plate and chip, carb kit installed with 42lbs pop off pressure, pre-mixed at 40:1, oil pump removed and block off kit installed, and a complete top end rebuild using SBT's kit. I am getting a ton of smoke on start up, low speed, and idle. Top end is amazing and I can tell all of the work will be great in the long run, but this is driving me crazy. Does anyone have any idea what might have gone wrong? Can I lean out the low speed jets past the one turn out? Will this even help? Is there something I'm missing? Any advice would be much appreciated.


  2. #2

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    Remember this is a two smoke, er two stroke.
    How did you break in motor?
    What do you have for compression?
    Have you burned through at least one tank of gas since rebuild?
    Mine smokes on ton on start up as well.

  3. #3

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    40-1 premix is going to smoke a good bit more than the boat did on the oil injection pump, especially at idle and low speeds. The factory oil pump was setup to be above 50-1 at idle and low speeds and something closer to 40-1 or more at full throttle. Some oils do smoke more than others, but the premix is the biggest cause.
    I also have noticed that boats that have the jetworks holeshot kit added will smoke more at idle too, since the exhaust isn't diluted by water at idle.

  4. #4

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    PS: I would only turn the low speed screws in if it seems fuel rich at idle, and smoke from fuel is different looking than the bluish grey oil smoke. If the boat is running great taking off, cruising, and at top end, I would not touch the carb settings.

  5. #5

    Can I ask ask you a question?

    Quote Originally Posted by snowman12 View Post
    I really need some help. I followed Oside Bill's recipe for a carb rebuild to the letter. New jets, correct turn out on the adjusters, new Riva aftermarket flame arrestors, accellerator pump disabled, D-plate and chip, carb kit installed with 42lbs pop off pressure, pre-mixed at 40:1, oil pump removed and block off kit installed, and a complete top end rebuild using SBT's kit. I am getting a ton of smoke on start up, low speed, and idle. Top end is amazing and I can tell all of the work will be great in the long run, but this is driving me crazy. Does anyone have any idea what might have gone wrong? Can I lean out the low speed jets past the one turn out? Will this even help? Is there something I'm missing? Any advice would be much appreciated.
    Any tips to geting to the carburetor rack without tearing the whole fu%$#@% machine apart?

  6. #6

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    Motor broken in as suggested, very carefully and with varying the throttle. Compression is good - all at or near 120. This is the third tank of gas through on 40:1 premix using Bombardier xpsII full synthetic. The other issue I'm having is that it starts with a touch of the starter on initial start-up, but after running for an hour or so, it takes a while holding the throttle full open before it finally kicks over and stumbles, then starts. And once again, tons of smoke once it gets going. It really feels like it's loading up at low speeds. Any further advice would be really appreciated.

  7. #7

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    There is no getting around pulling the exhaust off. I would suggest you try Cajun Dude's site (www.jetskipage.com) It's mentioned on this forum in a number of places. The carbs come off with a total of ten bolts, after you've disconnected all fuel and oil lines. I got rid of my oil injection and it really does make the carb work simpler. I wouldn't call it an easy job, but if you take your time, it's not too bad. Get rid of the accellerator pump, or just remove the cam. It creates a lot of low end bog. While you're in there, replace all the fuel lines with fresh lines. Mine were not in great shape.

  8. #8
    TX21's Avatar
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    You can reach the low speeds by removing the battery box only. It is a MFer but I can do it and I have short arms. My ski is just like yours, done the oside carb dealie as well. My ski bogged down when I stabbed it so I turned the lows in a 1/4 turn, still there a bit so I went in another 1/4 turn and it was almost gone. Well I made a prop change and figured to be on the safe side I went back out 1/4 turn and bogg came back. So for my ski I work best with lows only out a half turn.

  9. #9

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    Since yours is an XLT you cannot remove the battery box to access, you will have to pull the stinger, or rear section of the exhaust to get to it. Be happy you installed the F/S's, that is a big help. Since you have a hot start issue, you could try adjusting the lows in 1/8 to 1/4 in. I did notice on the boat i first did the F/A mod on it seemed a bit like yours, so on the next one I adjusted the lows to 7/8 instead of 1 and it seems a good bit better. Since yours seems real rich, I would try 1/4 in from where you are.
    PS: OsideBill says lots of times guys do not actually get the new screw seated in all the way, so they actually are farther out than they think. He says you should take the original SS screw, put a black sharpy mark on the end, screw in till seated, then pull and check for marks on the tip from the seat. If none, retry and screw in till you do, then the new screws can seat all the way.

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  11. #10
    TX21's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LT1GMC View Post
    Since yours is an XLT you cannot remove the battery box to access, you will have to pull the stinger, or rear section of the exhaust to get to it. Be happy you installed the F/S's, that is a big help. Since you have a hot start issue, you could try adjusting the lows in 1/8 to 1/4 in. I did notice on the boat i first did the F/A mod on it seemed a bit like yours, so on the next one I adjusted the lows to 7/8 instead of 1 and it seems a good bit better. Since yours seems real rich, I would try 1/4 in from where you are.
    PS: OsideBill says lots of times guys do not actually get the new screw seated in all the way, so they actually are farther out than they think. He says you should take the original SS screw, put a black sharpy mark on the end, screw in till seated, then pull and check for marks on the tip from the seat. If none, retry and screw in till you do, then the new screws can seat all the way.
    Oh, thought it was a GPR. Good to know about the sharpie trick, may have to post that in the stickey Oside did in the how to section so guys can do that with the carbs off

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