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  1. #1

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    Adding the triple fuel pump.

    Does the high speed screw change with the triple out pump?
    I tried searching and the post listings were so vague I never could be certain. I read somewhere about moving the pump location but Is ok just mount it to the original mounting point where I removed the single pump?


  2. #2
    I transcend race Hombre! TBone14's Avatar
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    Shouldn't require changes to carb settings - mount it anywhere as long as it is above the pulse fittings (and as close as possible to minimize pulse hose length)

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  4. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by TBone14 View Post
    Shouldn't require changes to carb settings - mount it anywhere as long as it is above the pulse fittings (and as close as possible to minimize pulse hose length)
    Thats why I went with the original mounting location.

    It just seems since it has dedicated fuel to each carb now the high speed would be effected.
    I ran it yesterday for about half and hour and burnt a hole in the mag piston(Still original single outlet pump at the time). I was never real hard on it and kept giving plenty of blips at the throttle on and off and it ran great right before it lost power.

    Took me 8 hours to tear it down replace the mag piston.... clean the carbs and reassemble. I am hoping the front seal is not the reason it burnt the hole. I wish I had a 100-102 main to richen up the front half a tad.
    The ski has 203 hours and that was the first time it had a wrench on it that major. I am not wanting to do it again very soon...
    I did learn if you remove the lower reed case bolts you can slip a 12mm ratcheting wrench to remove the 6 carb nuts and helps alot....but I still came out with 5-6 battle scars.

  5. #4
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Only way to be sure on the front seal is a leak down test...

  6. #5

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    Is there a DYI leak down tester kit in any of the forums?
    Are the High speed screws air or fuel meters?
    In= richer....or out = richer? I am still learning the down draft carbs.
    Thanks

  7. #6
    Myself's Avatar
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    The screws on most 2 stroke carbs will be fuel metering. Out = richer. You should be set at factory specs. The single outlet pump may have been weak, or you could have just had crap in the carb. Make sure you go through the carbs and clean everything, test popoff, and add an inline fuel filter just before the pump inlet. I usually use the outer bolt hole from the original pump and let the other ear on the new pump hang straight down.

  8. #7

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    The screws on most 2 stroke carbs will be fuel metering. Out = richer.
    Down drafts maybe...
    I rode many a MX 2 stroke bike and the pilot was always a air screw...out equal leaner. I would rather run on the rich side and since I have no bigger mains I wanted to adjust it richer with the screw.

    Right now it has fuel filters before the water separator and the carb is set to factory spec.

  9. #8
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    Leave the factory specs on the screws.

    These carbs are a closed loop system. The screws meter fuel flow not air. In = less fuel (lean). Out = more fuel (rich)

    Kj

  10. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnsonmtz View Post
    Leave the factory specs on the screws.

    These carbs are a closed loop system. The screws meter fuel flow not air. In = less fuel (lean). Out = more fuel (rich)

    Kj
    Yeah after some more searching I found the Mikuni manual download and seen the flow diagrams. Why do they decrease the center carbs fuel flow?

  11. #10
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    Different settings for each carb does seem kinda loony.

    I don't know the exact physics of it, but basically it's due to different operating temperatures in each cylinder. More fuel equals cooler combustion temps and prevents piston melting. MAG is the hottest because of the proximity to the stator. I'm not sure why PTO runs hotter than CEN but it needs slightly more fuel.

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