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  1. #1

    question on coupler and drive kit 2200744 new / 6230066 old

    I have a 94 SL650 .. I bought it and the drive coupler and shaft were bad. I found the jet pump was siezed up and ruined the drive system. When it came to the coupler and shaft we got confused. We finally fiquered out that my coupler 5130844 (about an inch in diameter) was replaced by a "kit" 2200744 where the new coupler is about 3 inches in diameter with a rubber bushing in it. I go the coupler and shaft from two different sources .. put it all together and ran the ski for about 5 hours .. BROKE again! The spline in my new coupler is gone!

    Some questions .. is there a difference in the shaft used for the new coupler? Maybe the shoulder is longer of something? what can be making thie coupler go except that I may just have gotten a bad one? I am looking for any advice before I buy new parts and they only last 5 hours!


  2. #2
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sstan View Post
    I have a 94 SL650 .. I bought it and the drive coupler and shaft were bad. I found the jet pump was siezed up and ruined the drive system. When it came to the coupler and shaft we got confused. We finally fiquered out that my coupler 5130844 (about an inch in diameter) was replaced by a "kit" 2200744 where the new coupler is about 3 inches in diameter with a rubber bushing in it. I go the coupler and shaft from two different sources .. put it all together and ran the ski for about 5 hours .. BROKE again! The spline in my new coupler is gone!

    Some questions .. is there a difference in the shaft used for the new coupler? Maybe the shoulder is longer of something? what can be making thie coupler go except that I may just have gotten a bad one? I am looking for any advice before I buy new parts and they only last 5 hours!
    Welcome to the Hulk!

    Sounds like you have an alignment problem. with a seized jet pump, you obviously had to replace many of the parts in the jet pump / drive setup. If the motor and stator in the jet pump are not properly aligned, you will continue to ruin the splines. I have used the two couplers interchangeably along with the standard drive shafts. The differences lie in the plastic shroud that covers the couplers and the location of the thru hull bearing on the drive shaft.

    I would get your hands on an alignment tool and make sure that is good to go when you get the new parts.....

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFishCrisis View Post
    Welcome to the Hulk!

    Sounds like you have an alignment problem. with a seized jet pump, you obviously had to replace many of the parts in the jet pump / drive setup. If the motor and stator in the jet pump are not properly aligned, you will continue to ruin the splines. I have used the two couplers interchangeably along with the standard drive shafts. The differences lie in the plastic shroud that covers the couplers and the location of the thru hull bearing on the drive shaft.

    I would get your hands on an alignment tool and make sure that is good to go when you get the new parts.....

    Interesting .. so the shaft has NOT changed at all? The new bigger coupler looks like it has a seal on the edge so leading us to think the shaft changed and the shoulder that the thru hull seal sits on was extended and fit into the coupler some.

    The original fix (excuse me not knowing the parts true names) .. had us getting the prop section (prop and sfat that is mounted on) from ebay and installing in our pump .. that could put it out of alignment? Out of alighntment can shear the splines like this?

    Thanks ...

  4. #4
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    There are several versions of the shaft out there. Notice how the splines in these extend further into the shaft, yet they are interchangeable. Also notice how on the top shaft, you can see where it starts to thicken up for the thru hull bearing to ride on it. The one on the bottom, thickens up quite a bit further back.



    Since the black plastic coupler cover attaches to the thru hull bearing, and the smaller coupler is also shorter,



    The thickened area for the thru hull is located closer to the motor and a shorter, smaller diameter cover is installed for the coupler. This requires a longer thru hull hose to make the connection from the hull to the bearing.

    Since you have now gone from the small coupler to the larger one, the thickened part of the drive shaft that the thru hull rides on will seem alot closer. But if you look into the larger coupler (rubber bonded coupler) you will see the splines don't start at the opening, they start a little bit back from it......

    Here is a picture of the Larger coupler with the cover in place.


    Makin any sense?

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFishCrisis View Post
    There are several versions of the shaft out there. Notice how the splines in these extend further into the shaft, yet they are interchangeable. Also notice how on the top shaft, you can see where it starts to thicken up for the thru hull bearing to ride on it. The one on the bottom, thickens up quite a bit further back.



    Since the black plastic coupler cover attaches to the thru hull bearing, and the smaller coupler is also shorter,



    The thickened area for the thru hull is located closer to the motor and a shorter, smaller diameter cover is installed for the coupler. This requires a longer thru hull hose to make the connection from the hull to the bearing.

    Since you have now gone from the small coupler to the larger one, the thickened part of the drive shaft that the thru hull rides on will seem alot closer. But if you look into the larger coupler (rubber bonded coupler) you will see the splines don't start at the opening, they start a little bit back from it......

    Here is a picture of the Larger coupler with the cover in place.


    Makin any sense?

    It is interesting .. on the larger coupler the splines do start back further in the coupler .. on the front edge of that coupler there looks to be a "O" ring .. the question we had was if the shaft that is suppose to be used (maybe the top shaft in your pics) has a shoulder starting sooner after the splines so that when seated the shoulder also engages in the coupler and "O" ring making a stiffer connection.

    I need a new coupler now .. just not sure if I need a new shaft also or not if they are different? It also sounds like i need to check alignment as that may be what is blowing the splines in the coupler.

    thanks, steve

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