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  1. #1

    Question Just purchased a 1999 SLTX is great cosmetic shape, but I think I have a carb rebuild

    1999 SLTX

    The ski looks amazing and was on a floating dock, so all I really saw that was out of place were barnales on the intake grade (Freshwater) and the back skidplate, nothing major. The guy I bought it from is the original owner who is also a mechanic. Everything checked out pretty good, the CDI was replaced 4 years ago along with the gas tank and plugs...nothing major was rebuilt. The ski had been sitting all year last year and up until yesterday of this year. It fired right up. Crazy too was the hours displayed showed 8.7, he said he ran it a lot when he first bought it?

    After riding it for about a 1/2 hour I noticed it hesitates a lot and I had to play with the chock to get it to plane out. Once it plannes out it runs great, no hesitating at all. The owner told me he had 1/4 tank of old gas, but he decided to fill it up instead or pouring out the old gas. Additionally we ran the compression test and cylinder 1 came out a 100 while 2 and 3 where at 110 - 115 or there abouts. I question the tester, looked old as dirt. Would it be safe to assume the carbs are causing the hesitation?

    In any case, here is my question(s). Can I get buy for another 2 months without rebuilding the carbs? Can I damage anything with dirty carbs? The plugs looks a little foulded, but not very wet or dirty. I ran the ski for a good hour with the chock half open. The carbs were never rebuilt, everything is stock except the CDI. How difficult is rebuilding carbs for a novice? I really want to do it, but I never tried anything like it before. What else should I look to do to get it up to snuff? I really don't think I need to rebuild the motor yet...even with a 100 PSI in the first cylinder, or am I wrong? BTW I had it up to 47 mph, which indicates that it is running pretty good?

    I am new to the site and I am looking around. I found the service manual, so I will perform the basic maintenance...any other suggestions would be appreciated!

    Thanks in advance.

    Last edited by K447; 07-18-2012 at 09:58 AM.

  2. #2
    I'm addicted to Polaris PWC ghostinstallations's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Rochester, New York
    Welcome to The Hulk!

    Quote Originally Posted by bjhatch View Post
    Can I get buy for another 2 months without rebuilding the carbs? Can I damage anything with dirty carbs?
    You can and will damage the engine! Running lean will melt a piston in no time.

    Stop riding it and rebuild the carbs. Go thru the entire ski. It can be a awesome and reliable toy if you take the time. Speed is not a good indicator of "how well its running". RPM is a better indicator. That motor should be able to spin 6700 RPM. Piston wash will show you if it it is rich or lean.

  3. #3
    Tony's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    North Carolina
    Quote Originally Posted by bjhatch View Post
    1999 SLTX

    In any case, here is my question(s). Can I get buy for another 2 months without rebuilding the carbs? Can I damage anything with dirty carbs? .......
    The entire fuel system needs to be in A1 condition. Anything less could spell disaster.

    Quote Originally Posted by bjhatch View Post
    1999 SLTX

    BTW I had it up to 47 mph, which indicates that it is running pretty good?

    A stock SLTX should do 55-57 MPH

  4. #4
    Good call on replacing the fuel lines, they are grey and green gunk by the connections to the carb. I just sucked all the gas out of the tank and am looking for replacement hose. I got down to the carb, and it doesn't look like anything too major. Any tips before I disconnect the gas and oil lines and begin to disassemble the carbs? Keep in mind I have never done this before? Will the oil flow out of the lines? Also, should I remove the gas tank or is it good enough that I syphoned just about all of the gas out?

  5. #5

    Join Date
    May 2007
    Austin, TX
    Where did you find the manual? I have been searching for one for a slxh and can't find one. Did you have to purchase yours or was it a free down load?

  6. #6
    A couple quick follow-up questions. I am rebuilding the carbs and there are two small o-rings included in the rebuild kit, although the directions said to only pull out the showing o-ring on the seat...should I pull the seat out and replace the second one? It seems very hard to move and it I push from the bottom I might damange the screen and if I pull it from the top I might dent it with plyers...Should I even mess with that?

    The low idle was set to three full turns before it was all the way in...I believe the book said only a 1/2 turn out. Should I reset it to the 3 full turns out or try to get it to idle at 1/2 turn?

    Last questions, I'm replacing the fuel lines and I thought I heard I don't need to replace the gas lines that are connected between the the carbs? Is that correct or should I also replace those lines?
    Last edited by bjhatch; 07-20-2012 at 11:17 AM.

  7. #7
    Well back to the drawing board...I rebuilt all three carbs and replaced all the fuel line. I removed all the old gas, cleaned the plugs checked their gap and put in 93 octane. I dropped the ski in the lake and it idles to spec at 1350...For the first 5 minutes it ran perfect. Stop and go, no issues, then the bogging began again. It would bog from 0-30 unless I had the choke at 2/3...although that doesn't even work all the time. I got stuck for about 5 minutes when I couldn't start it. This is frustrating...any suggestions would be appreciated.

  8. #8
    Also, I couldn;t get it above 6100 rpms? I know piston 1 is a little low compression...100 I believe while 2 and 3 are at 110 -115 or there about. I'm planning on replacing the top end this winter...Also I want to figue out this issue before I invest in the top end.

  9. #9
    I'm guessing the bottom needles are out too much...I believe the 3rd carb was as 2 turns out the middle carb was 1 1/2 and the first carb was 3+. Maybe I should reset them to spec (1 1/2) I think and see if that will solve this problem of bogging...WOT is fine. I don;t know how to test each carb to see if it's too rich or lean though.

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