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  1. #1

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    1995 SL 750.. Losing it!!

    First I would like to thank all of the members on here who have shared their knowledge with Newbies like myself to the PWC world. This is my first PWC.. I am pretty knowledgable with older cars and the basics of Motors, however never delt with a polaris or any PWC before so your post were very helpful and informative. Let me start at the beginning of my "Project".. I purchased my Polaris SL 750 from a guy on craigslist. I purchased it at a VERY reasonable price I felt. Speaking with the previous owner he burnt up a cylinder. So he pulled the motor and totally went through the motor. Put a Wiseco Piston set and had the cylinders bored out (professional company). He replaced the fuel lines, oil lines, rebuilt carbs.. Installed the motor back in and went to take it out. He crossed wires either in the E-Box or the e-box got fried from the battery which burnt up the Stator.. So he didnt even get to ride it.. He pulled the motor again and pulled the stator out... Well it had sat like that for 2 yrs.. I purchased it last week.. Purchased a Stator installed it and dropped the motor back in.. Using the other post and pictures of E-box's on here I thought I had it ready to go.. So here I am now after going through everything and checking all the wiring over with a Ohms tester.. Here is what I have... It cranks over but No fire at the plugs and it Doesn't look like the fuel pump is working.. So the last post I read about checking things is http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=98103 . These were the readings I got:
    I purchased a INNOVA model 3306 from Autozone to get the readings.. It by my knowledge only does whole numbers not decimals.. So a 0.6 is 0 and a 1.8 is a 1.. Don't know if that matters or how to adjust the setting to get it to read decimals, but if you are aware of that please let me know also.. I just used the instructions on how to read ohms and went by that..


    Magneto stator coils Recommended MINE
    Red/Purple to Yellow: 0.6 ohms (Alternator coil - battery charging) Under 1
    Red/Purple or Yellow to Black: Infinite/open/no connection Infinite/Open
    White/Yellow to Black: 220 ohms (Trigger coil) 226
    Blue/Red to Red/White: 90 ohms (Pulser coil) 1st reading with wires connected -478.. Disconnected and read Open
    Red/White to Black: Infinite/open/no connection Infinite/Open
    Red/White to Green/Red: 490 ohms (Exciter coil) 522


    All of my ground checks have been 0 in the Ebox and from the battery. It was 0 between the ignition coil connection on the CDI to the engine block.
    Ignition coils
    black to black/white was under 1
    Black to secondary lead was Infinite/Open
    Black to Black/White in series was between 2-1

    I could not get a reading from the coil to spark plug, from spark plug cap to wire above coil.

    I was getting 087 at the Starter side of the solenoid when cracking over the engine. Every reading for the LR module was within the recommended area.

    So I am lost at what these readings actually mean.. Do I need another new stator and have to pull the motor back out to install it or am I missing a connection somewhere and thats what is throwing the numbers off? Or is one or all of my coils bad? I really do appreciate all the help!! I would have never made it this far without it!! Thank in advance!


  2. #2

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    Still nothing.. Double checked with the guy who I purchased the stator off of.. It came off a running SL 750 1994.. so shouldnt be an issue there... I went through and check all the electric connections again.. I put everything back together and even grounded the outside of the case because of not knowing if this one had one of the small ground wires attached.. Any information or potential issues that you think might be the case, Please let me know!! Thank you

  3. #3
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stallings18 View Post
    Still nothing.. Double checked with the guy who I purchased the stator off of.. It came off a running SL 750 1994.. so shouldnt be an issue there... I went through and check all the electric connections again.. I put everything back together and even grounded the outside of the case because of not knowing if this one had one of the small ground wires attached.. Any information or potential issues that you think might be the case, Please let me know!! Thank you
    Your stator readings look OK with the exception of the pulser coil. Not sure how you managed a negative impedence reading, as I don't even know what that is. You may want to re-check the pulser coil reading without anything connected. All other readings are OK as long as they are within 10% of spec. All OHM readings on the stator should be taken with all wires disconnected.

  4. #4
    I'm addicted to Polaris PWC ghostinstallations's Avatar
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    Welcome to The Hulk!

    I would say, start simple. From what I read, you have not difinitivly determined if your issue is fuel or spark. Grab a spark tester and see if you have spark. I do agree the pulser coil reading is bad, but if you have spark, work on the fueling issue. If you dont have spark, then I would say the stator has an issue.

    If it has not been done, the fuel pump needs to be upgraded. Personally, I would go thru the carbs myself. I dont trust anything anyone else has done, becuase I have yet to purchase a motorized picece of equipment that was done right.

  5. #5

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    I did recheck the pulser coil with everything disconnected and it read open/infinite. What would cause this? I'm going to go through everything one more time and make sure all the wires are connected properly. On this 95 does the Ebox have to be completely put back together to see if there is a fire or can it be open while checking it? Thanks again for the help!

  6. #6
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    You should be able to run it open. Make sure you have the box halves grounded together too. Not just for running with the box open, it should be like this all the time - ground wire from the screw that holds the coils in place to the black terminal on the board.

  7. #7

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    got it all together, replaced some of the connections that could have been questionable.. I'm not getting fire at all.. I checked the stator reading again with everything disconnected and they are right on.. I was checking the wrong wire on the pulse coil, thats why it was off... I did bypass the relay because it was fried and wouldnt reset from the initial issue. I'm going to purchase another one but just trying to get it to start right now..

    So what should I be checking to find out why it isnt firing and how do I know if its actually the coils or not.. When I check them I'm getting an Open/ infinite reading..

  8. #8
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    What "relay" are you talking about bypassing? If you meter is not auto ranging, you may need to select a higher setting to get the 3300 ohms to properly display.......

    I assume you are cranking with the lanyard in place?

    Coils may be bad if you can't get the secondary to ring out at 3300 ohm. CDI may be bad if electrical was shorted.....

  9. #9

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    Yes Lanyard is in place at all times..

    The 15amp breaker/relay that has the push reset through the box. I tried reading through the process of checking the coils. I am not able to get any readings from any of the coils. I spit all the wires apart and checked each one then put 2 together and left the ends open and tried, then I had them all together and I was able to get < 1.0.. Am I checking the secondary correctly?? Is there a way to check the CDI?

  10. #10
    I'm addicted to Polaris PWC ghostinstallations's Avatar
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    I still have not heard you say "There is no spark"

    your statement "Im not getting fire at all" could be interpreted as the engine is not firing when cranked over.

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