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Thread: gp1300 Prop?

  1. #1

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    gp1300 Prop?

    I have a 06 gp1300 with free flow, filter and efi controller intake grate , pump seal and riva ride plate. Well i have a 14/20 df prop , but when i install it the ski boggs down, when i put the factory back in its fine. My question is has anybody else had problem and what did you do to fix? Thanks


  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by jandis96 View Post
    I have a 06 gp1300 with free flow, filter and efi controller intake grate , pump seal and riva ride plate. Well i have a 14/20 df prop , but when i install it the ski boggs down, when i put the factory back in its fine. My question is has anybody else had problem and what did you do to fix? Thanks
    Typically you can't just run a taller prop without increasing compression. Either mill the head to at least 140 or buy an aftermarket head w/150+ compression. This could explain your bog. Otherwise your EFI settings are off rich/lean. What are they now?

  3. #3

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    Thats what i thought about the prop, dont know if i want to go into the head because i still want reliabilty of the ski. About how much does getting the head milled if i go that route? For the the settings i am still playing with to get right on. Another member gave me a starting point with the settings.

  4. #4

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    Your 1300 should turn a 14/20 prop at least 7000- 7100 rpms, I know mine did with the same mods. Have u done a d-plate? check and make sure its a true 14/20 or smaller on the blades. On the efi controller, you will not need much more fuel than stock. You could also disconnect the controller and see how it runs.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by jandis96 View Post
    Thats what i thought about the prop, dont know if i want to go into the head because i still want reliabilty of the ski. About how much does getting the head milled if i go that route? For the the settings i am still playing with to get right on. Another member gave me a starting point with the settings.
    i'm not sure I understand your question...(I'd recommend doing a search on both head milling specs and read the EFI sticky at the top of this page.)

    But if I understand your question, and to be very general, it will cost you about 80 bucks to simply shave off approx. .025 (approx depth of oem head lip), and say run 1 gasket, which in turn should give you about 20 more PSI and help you turn the prop. Keep in mind tho, that 14/20 is part of a complete performance kit that includes 145-150 psi heads, as well as other stuff. So obviously just shaving the head may not ultimately give you the performance you need, unless of course you re-work the squish band on the head itself as required to get to that infamous 150 range. Reading up on those issues should give you a better comfort level...take care.

  6. #6

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    Thanks for everything and such quick replys, i think i am going to leave the stock prop in there untill warranty is up. By the way did have the d-plate installed to.

  7. #7
    Altezza01's Avatar
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    installing a prop won't void your warranty. how are you still under warranty? yamaha offers a y.e.s (yamaha extended service) for 4 years and starts after the 1 year manufacturer warranty is up. your warranty starts the day of purchase.

  8. #8

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    The warranty is on the sbt motor(Was put in right when i bought it) after warranty is up i will go into milling the head. But i just want to go out and have fun, dont have to have the fastest on the water.

  9. #9
    Altezza01's Avatar
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    When doing a warranty claim with sbt, do they send you a motor and you send back the core? If so, you can do a milled head and if you need to do a warranty claim just swap out the heads. They'll never know.

  10. #10

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    prop size

    i have a very nice 87mm nozzle that i removed the visible water spout . its welded up and machined smooth on the inside and the outside tube is also gone . its a quick fix to keep your 14 20

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