07-12-2012, 04:53 PM #1
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
94 Yamaha Waverunner III Kill Switch Replacement & wiring ?
After struggling with a worn out, leaky stock kill switch for too long, it's time to do something. However the high cost of the entire stock control unit as sold by parts dealers forced me to buy a generic kill switch, which I was going to mount in front of the rider above the fuel gauge due to it's larger size. To do that, I need to close the original stock kill switch circuit up at the control unit on the handlebar, so that I can open the circuit down in the engine bay & install the new switch there.
Problem is, after looking at it, I have no idea how to go about it. I've diagrammed the wiring & messed with what I thought would be the most logical arrangement & even had an electrical engineer friend look at it as far as which wires to cut, which wires to splice etc. But without knowing the internal wiring of the stock switch & the entire wiring harness overall, he was at a loss to figure out the right arrangement.
Has anyone out there ever installed a replacement, non-stock, universal, etc., etc. kill switch on an older Waverunner & if so how'd you wire it in?
Or does anyone have a wiring diagram they could scan for me of the electrical system & also the circuit that includes the stock kill switch & the kill switch internals?
Also I'm open for any suggestions as to reasonable stock replacement parts, fix's workarounds etc.
Crazy thing is that it's just the little rubber "hat" seal on the stock switch that's worn out, split & letting water in. I've silicone'd the "hat" seal & it worked for a year, or so but the piece is just too gone to do anything more with. It'd be nice if someone offered just that "hat" seal, or just the kill switch independent of the entire unit. I've seen a few units on ebay etc. but owners usually want to sell the entire wiring harness, which I don't need & for way more than I want to spend. Problem now is it's already mid summer & the WR is sitting on the trailer un-useable. A quick fix/workaround would be nice, because there's a long winter not too far away that will allow ample time for a much more thorough solution.
Like I said any ideas are welcome.
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