07-18-2012, 09:05 PM #1
Powershot Settings With R3 & B1 Wheel for Offshore Racing
I have a B1 wheel and Powershot. I haven't run it yet. What setting should I put the Powershot on with the B1? I'm doing an Offshore race on Sunday, and want to know the best setting for it so I have enough fuel to finish the race, but don't run too lean. Without the Wheel or Powershot, I was on the beeper for about the last 4-5 miles of the race.
Last edited by 64physhy; 07-30-2012 at 08:56 PM.
07-18-2012, 09:55 PM #2
I just started it up and I'm getting the green and red flashing lights (according to instructions, it means it's not hooked up right). I double checked all connections and they are secure. The directions don't specify what plug goes to what injector, and they are not marked, so I was thinking it must not matter. Is there a specific order they are supposed to go on?
07-18-2012, 10:42 PM #3
I realized it was installed right. The green and red lights were flashing when I turned the ski off. I didn't notice it do the sequential flashing when I started it the first time.
Any input on the settings? I bought it used, so I don't even know if it's at its factory settings now, unless they reset to default when they are disconnected.
07-18-2012, 11:21 PM #4
There's really no cookie cutter answer to your question. You need to check AFR & tune accordingly.
07-18-2012, 11:32 PM #5
That's what I was afraid of. What's a good AFR gage that won't break the bank?
07-18-2012, 11:56 PM #6
Here's a link to the powershot settings... http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...rshot+settings
Before reflashes came along. I used the powershot with the B1,stock inter-cooler at factory PS settings for 60 hours, Ski ran great. I was using a skat 13/25 prop to keep me off the rev limiter. Ski was running at 7700-7750 rpm. Factory limiter starts at 7800. Hopefully your 13/23 will keep you under it.
07-19-2012, 12:03 AM #7
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07-19-2012, 12:21 AM #8
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Simple set up, love mine. Most guys tune for 11.8-9 at WOT. RD has told me many times the 12.5 is optimal power, but your recording an average of 4 cylinders and we all know the #2 and #3 run leaner. Thats why we aim for 11.8-9 otherwise at 12.5 #3 could be 13.0 maybe more...meltdown.
All you can do is tune it, make sure its tuned to where you feel safe. You may be able to pull some fuel, just dont go to far.
Your best bet will be to keep an eye for a fuel cell. Steve friebe may or may not make them anymore there was one in the classifieds here not to long ago.
07-19-2012, 08:16 AM #9
I know there's one that's really heavily modified that I've seen break out there twice. Mine isn't modified nearly as much. If the clutch breaks, I'll have a good reson to upgrade it. I also doubt I'll be WOT the hole time because I've done very little training for this and won't be able to handle WOT the entire time unless it glass, which I doubt since they start at 1100.
07-19-2012, 11:30 AM #10
Also keep in mind 10% ethanol fuel will burn leaner than straight gasoline, so you want to run a little richer. 12.5 may be fine for running buoys, but for a longer offshore race, it's probably pushing it. 11.8-12.0 should be safe.
You're definately gonna need to do some repitching to keep it out of the rev limiter. Running on the limiter will make it impossible to tune & will make the clutch go faster. I remember most guys were running 25 trailing edges with B1's & C3's before the reflashes were available, & that still might not be enough with your bored nozzle. You'll want to add some leading edge too. You should be able to pull a 14 with no problem, which will help acceleration & hookup.
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