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  1. #1
    notorious01's Avatar
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    Buying a 2004 Virage

    I have family members who won this thing in A/c
    kept it dealer Maintained and used it in predominantly salt water always winterized up till 08 where it sat till now... its a 701cc changed the plugs and battery and she started right up this is our first owned ski.






    Owned By In laws through our family.


    Any Tips would be great i was a little weary with only 95 horses but i think its a good price and for a first itll do i have never owned one but have rented for multiple years when available..
    Thanks guys!

    couple questions..
    How hard is it to find parts for this pwc?
    Is there any problems or defects that are common
    how much maitenence do these polaris models require seasonally

    Any additional help would be fantastic!
    thanks all,
    Garry


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk

    Salt water machine. That means preventative maintenance is very important.

    Does everything work properly right now?

    Do you know how well it was maintained?
    Was the engine cooling system flushed with fresh water after each ride?
    Was the hull washed down with fresh water after each ride?

    What is the machine's current condition? Any signs of corrosion on the engine exterior?

    Has the jet pump been removed and checked, ever?

    See my signature links for some useful info.

    Areas that may need attention;
    Thermostat and pressure bypass housing. Look for internal corrosion, worn plastic, etc

    Jet pump. Remove and check for smooth bearing operation. Jet pump may be difficult to remove if metal corrosion has 'glued' the sections together. ANY sign of roughness or gritty sound from the stator bearings means they should be replaced. If it was me I would simply assume the jet pump bearings and seals should be replaced and do so.

    Through-hull drive shaft bearing. Replace the seals, check for worn internal bushing. Replace bushing if unsure of wear level.

    Check drive shaft splines for condition. Be sure to grease the splines before reassembly. Make sure drive shaft end bumpers are in place.

    Verify that Bilge pump actually works and pumps water.

    Lubricate everything that moves, especially steering and cable, reverse cable. If Reverse lever is stiff to move then take it apart and repair. Details for binding reverse lever fix can be found via my signature links.

    Hoses. Check every hose clamp and inspect all hoses for possible wear and rubbing.

    If needed, clean hull internally.

  3. #3
    notorious01's Avatar
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    Everything works well my uncle lubed and greased everything that needed it we replaced the plugs and battery ran well sometimes a bit hard to start (handful of tries) we have used it two days so far and we're having a problem with the oil sensor plug staying in causing oil to spew out... So we used a turkey baster and tags to get it out!! We also rigged some styrofoam to keep the plug wedged over the cap (temporary) till we get home.

    My questions are...
    Is there any fixes for this plug problem or is this really common?






    Also I filled it full of oil the night before using it maybe 3hrs and marked it there's no way it used that much oil or is it possible?

  4. #4
    notorious01's Avatar
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    The ski has been maitenenced by professionals since bought... We replaced plugs and battery it had been sitting for 3 seasons fired right up sounded strong and good. Felt fine in the water when I tested it. We're having problems with the oil sensor cap that won't stay shut I put foam to hold it off till I get home is this problem common and is this a common problem? Also there's no neutral working..

    Does anyone know if there is anything to lock your ski to a dock like a cable and lock

    Thanks,
    Garry


    Filled to the dot..3hours later




  5. #5
    notorious01's Avatar
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    Oil plug keeps popping out any fixes?



    Our quick fix
    Neutral isn't working

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Try putting a hose type gear clamp around the plastic neck on the oil tank. Tighten just enough to hold the oil level sender in place. Don't crush the oil tank neck

    Neutral not working? Do you mean the handle won't stay in the Neutral position, or the Reverse warning is active even when the lever is in the forward position? See my signature links for Binding Reverse Lever for more info on how the reverse mechanism works.

    Check that the cable and arm on the oil pump is in the correct position. It is easy to allow the arm on the pump to swing around to the wrong side when reconnecting the control cable to the oil pump. If the oil pump cable is wrong then the engine will use more oil than normal.

    There is a reference mark on the oil pump hub face to verify that the oil cable adjustment is correct. You will need a mirror and some light to see the two marks and align them.

    If the engine is hard to start, especially when not cold, then something is wrong. These engines generally are not hard starting IF everything is as it should be.

  7. #7
    notorious01's Avatar
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    There's only two Forward and reverse it says neutral in the middle which I'd figure to be idle but it doesn't go it just goes straight to reverse

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by notorious01 View Post
    There's only two Forward and reverse it says neutral in the middle which I'd figure to be idle but it doesn't go it just goes straight to reverse
    Neutral in these watercraft does NOT mean the engine disconnects from the impeller drive.

    What the Neutral actually position does is lower the reverse bucket about halfway down, so that some of the pump thrust is forward and some pump thrust is redirected rearwards. The net effect is that the water churns around at the rear of the hull but the hull doesn't move forward or backwards (well, not much).

    There should be a detent in the lever mechanism to hold the reverse bucket in the middle/neutral position. If the bucket just falls all the way down to full reverse then the mechanism needs repair.

  9. #9
    notorious01's Avatar
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    As soon as I come off fwd a bit the dash says reverse I'll have to check that out thanks!

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by notorious01 View Post
    As soon as I come off fwd a bit the dash says reverse ...
    That is normal. The display is just warning you that it is not in full forward mode.

    You can move the Reverse lever and watch the bucket move without the engine running. If the display is awake (press the Display button to wake it up if it is sleeping) then it will show the Reverse message whenever the lever is not in the full forward position.

    See my signature links for how to repair the lever if it becomes stiff or binds.

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