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Thread: 04 RXP issues

  1. #1
    danny3535's Avatar
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    04 RXP issues

    Ok, so I just bought this ski with 110hrs and now has 121hrs. When I first got it, it ran perfect. No cavitation when I first got it and ran like it should. A few hrs later it has started to get cavitation and now it runs slower and top speed on phone gps is 61. Gauge said 66. Supercharger was rebuilt with metal washers at 60hrs by previous owner. (Jerry rebuilt it) He use to be a member on here and I have the receipts so I know it was done. So I wouldn't think with only 60hrs on rebuild with metal washers that it would be my issue. It is also only hitting 7600 ish rpms, so that's why I'm not hitting stock top speed. And yes, piggyback wiring harness update thing was done and previous owner did it and took it to Seadoo dealer for update so that's not it either. Also, my oil level is 3/4 between E&F so it doesn't have too much oil because I haven't even changed it since I bought it. (He changed it recently) Wear ring has never been changed but it seems to be in good shape still. I did notice a few small looking knicks on the inner part of the impeller but it was hard to really see them by just looking in from the back.

    So basically I believe I have two separate problems. One is the cavitation, which I think is unrelated to my loss of rpms since if I did have a bad wear ring than it would turn more rpms instead of less. Also, the last time I rode it, I hit a huge wake and came down pretty hard so I thought that might have misaligned the motor or broke a motor mount, but inspected it earlier and motor mounts looked fine and motor had little to no play so I think I'm good there. My mechanic recommended bad spark plugs, so maybe that could be my small loss of power and loss of 500rpms. And for the cavitation issue, I'm thinking the impeller is damaged more than what I can tell but maybe it is something else? I really wouldn't think that the s/c would be wearing out after 60hrs and especially since I bought it from a 50ish yr old man that took amazing care of it. He didn't really seem like the type to ride the crap out of it, since it had no scratches on it at all and did regular maintenance on it. I think that's about all so maybe someone can help me figure out what to do next. I heard that you can feel the compressor wheel on the s/c and tell if the washers are bad or not? How can you really tell?

    Thanks in advance,
    Daniel


  2. #2
    monaroman76's Avatar
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    I would be changing your wear ring anyway. It can look okay, but overtime it wears down and increases the tolerance between it and the impeller blades. I would also be changing the carbon seal and accordion boot, given it is probably the original piece and has 121 hours.

    The rpm issue could be related to the wear ring or the prop. But as your mechanic suggested, spark plugs are always a good start! It would be worth checking your supercharger slip also, given that it was rebuilt 60 hours ago.

  3. #3
    Got Boost? psycho rxp's Avatar
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    U need to pull the pump, and check the nose cone on the prop, and look real good at the
    Prop, and pump seal. Dings in your prop, or wear rings can cause RPM loss. A worn carbon seal, or accordion boot would cause the cavitation.

    You should pull the SC and have the slip checked. Low slip moment will cause low RPM. May need a shim, or some new McMaster washers installed.
    Old gas can cause some performance loss. Fresh 93 octane is always recommended.

  4. #4
    wotxxxsd's Avatar
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    I always change oil and filter on any ski I purchase.
    I then know what oil is in it and I've seen the filter to see if has metal caught in it.


    I'd replace the spark plugs and run some injection cleaner and inspect/replace the wear ring.
    Easy stuff 1st.

  5. #5
    wotxxxsd's Avatar
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    I always squeeze the exit hose in the s/c and give rev the ski.
    If it pushes my hand open from a squeezed hose its making BOOST.

  6. #6
    monaroman76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wotxxxsd View Post
    I always squeeze the exit hose in the s/c and give rev the ski.
    If it pushes my hand open from a squeezed hose its making BOOST.
    This proves nothing really. Any amount of boost will be felt, it doesn't mean that it is producing as much boost as it should and that the slip is set correctly.

  7. #7
    danny3535's Avatar
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    Ok, so I felt the s/c compressor wheel and it felt good I believe. It didn't turn freely really, you could move it a little but it wasn't too easy. It seemed to be fine from what I've read so I'm wanting to verify that my s/c is still good? Is that a sure way? I took a pic of it just to show you guys.

    Last edited by danny3535; 08-21-2012 at 11:41 AM.

  8. #8
    AReiter's Avatar
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    Charger should be fine then but that doesn't meant the slip is set at the right point... No the inside of the hull should not look like that, it should be a smooth transition but as long as its not leaking and its still structurally sound it shouldn't be much of a problem. Like others have said, changing your carbon seal and accordian boot along with a new wear ring will take care of your cavitation IF your prop is still in good condition

  9. #9
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    Lots of good advice here. The 2 ways to check slip is either pull it out and bench test it per the manual or leave in place and check with a cam locking tool per the manual. IMO, bench testing is more accurate.

    You may simply have a slight boost leak, so I would check all the hose clamps for tightness. I would keep the oil at the top bend to ensure the SC gets proper oiling! Change the plugs for sure.

    I have seen moderate wear on the wear ring and a slightly dinged up impeller cause cavitation on hole shots, but the rpm usually spikes higher - not lower.


  10. #10
    danny3535's Avatar
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    Ok so I replaced the plugs and took it out the other day and it seemed like the power was a lot better! Didn't realize that just plugs on a 4 stroke would make that much of a difference but they were probably never changed. It gained at least 2mph, if not more but it was so crowded out I couldn't find any glass water. Phone gps said 63 which is still 4-5mph off stock but at least the power is back. Rpms went up a little, around 7700-7800 but like I said I couldn't really top it out.

    Another thing I felt when riding is that my steering feels pretty misaligned. Maybe that would affect top speed some? But probably not rpms.. I'm not sure why it is out of alignment but I assuming it is either the OPAS or the main steering part that needs adjusting.

    I noticed the gauge speedo said I was going 69 at one point and I was wandering what they typically say compared to a gps? I kept steady with a new kawi 300 so that was pretty sweet

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