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  1. #1

    Pulling carbs on 750 sl

    I need to pull the carbs. As it looks I need to pull them with what appears to be an intake manifold. I have the six stud nuts removed that are below and to the side of each carb. How in the world do you get to the center upper bolts? The rail the carbs are mounted on seem to be blocking the bolts. Or, am I going about this the wrong way. I was hoping to have these all off by the time my kits get here.

    Also what is the part that shares the longer bolt of the fuel pump mounting. It has a clear Vacuum?? hose to it and two out lets that, on my ski, has a hose looping them together. I haven't noticed much indication that this engine has been touched but am wundering if the previous owner was trying something to boost fuel pressure/volume. The part sort of looks like a fuel pressure regulator for an injector rail on some GM car engines. The way it is plumbed it seems like it would be useless/bypassed.

    Thanks

    Jim


  2. #2
    sounds like your taking off manifold....just went thru this and thought the same thing u did....there are 2 nuts per carb underneath..feel around ,i used a reguler size 12 point..12mm.. wrench to break it loose.. then a stubby for more turning room, i couldnt use a socket because of the manifold bolts are to close on some of them.i did not remove the manifold , ..if your loosining the 10 mm they are the wrong ones,unless you are wanting to take your manifold off..not sure you can get the manifold off without removing carbs first....the other part your talking about sounds like the auto cock wich on my 94 sl 750 it should be removed....theres a right up on removing both the carbs and auto cock somewhere on this forum wich goes into greater detail, it got me through it

  3. #3
    Superd2K's Avatar
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    Jim,

    Put those nuts back on. You don't need to remove the manifold (actually you can't) to remove the carbs. Waterlogd is right; two nuts per carb, 12mm wrench (be careful not to drop it), a few quarts of sweat and some selective curse words, and those carbs will come off. And YES, the mystery part you're referring to is the autocock. Get rid of it.

  4. #4
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    you need an entire vocabulary of curses and a vodoo doll when dealing with this one. I've gotten to the point now where I won't can't/work on the carbs on this model ski anymore ( unless the point is made and agreed on about how costly it will be)...just too painful and time consuming..same goes for the twin carb seadooo 657x..where the rotary valve cover has to be removed to get the carbs off.(and one bolt has about 6 degrees of clearance on it).I guess once they have been off once, it will be easier..but I'm done screwing with this model.

    gloves a must if you are going to tackle this one..stuff some rags in the hull in the even you droop a nut or two..beats fishing under the engine to get at them later

  5. #5
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Once you get it off the first time, wire wheel the nuts and threads on the studs to clean them up. It will make it a million times easier to get them off the next time.

    Unfortunately for Captain Pete, he probably doesn't get the same one back too often...!!

  6. #6
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    self dissolving fuel line

    yeah..absolute right...I'm pretty sure I've repalced ever foot of tempo fuel line in southern new mexico in the last four years. I can only hope that a whole bunch of lake meade refugees show up here next season...fresh meat for the grinder as it's been said. I only used 200 feet so far this season..down from 300 for last year. The ethanol has done it's damage it seems.

    I do my damnest to make sure I don't have to redo a carb job..kinda takes all the fun out of doing it the second time around especially when I've been coached by some of the best in the business here on GH..and yes..I can catch a fly with a pair of chopsticks on certain days of the year.

    that being said, if you want to do this once..follow _all_ the advice on carb rebuilding posted here..including repacling needles and seats (just do it..they are far cheaper then losing an hour of couch time doing it twice..not to mention the gaskets and aggravation, measure the pop-off at least twice and check the low/highspeed needles with a magnifying glass, unless you got eagle eyes and can spot a blond hair on a white dinner plate across a room)

    I just finsihed doing a wear ring and prop for one of my regulars here..did the last one two years ago and boy did I regret using that red loctite on the..but like you said..I only want to do it once....

    oh yeah..how on eath do you wire wheel nuts?.....run a tap thru em to clean up all the loctite and if you plan on doing it again..don't use any thread lock..always time to add that bit over the winter when you need some up close and personal time with your ski.

  7. #7
    yeah it is def. a pain the first time , key is dont get in a rush and listen to some calming music...few beers wont hurt either..just no baseball bats laying around as you might have an urge to use it a time or two lol....while your there check them oil lines they can easily be knocked off or broke while your trying to get carbs off

  8. #8
    I guess I should feel better I have all this great tech support but somehow I'm not looking forward to doing the dead. Thanks for the cold hard truth.

    Jim

  9. #9
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    dancing with your girlfriends ugly cousin isn't going to last forever. buck up and get to it sailor.

    good wrenches (a number of them) and gloves are key. you've been warned.

    A famous barbarian once said:

    "Do you want to live forever?"

  10. #10
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nmpeter View Post
    dancing with your girlfriends ugly cousin isn't going to last forever. buck up and get to it sailor.
    Once again, a couple of beers wouldn't hurt either.....

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