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  1. #1

    95 SL 750 Fuel Pump

    Greetings Everyone.

    This is my first post and looking for some direction on updating my fuel pump on my 95 and 94 SL 750 Fuel Pump based on the suggestions of other users that said this must be done because cylinder #1 runs too lean. Well... I received my fuel pump today and was excited to put it in, Unfortunately ( me being a novice) I don't understand how this is done? I see that the single ported fuel pump went into the rail that feeds all 3 carbs, now with the new one... where do the new "3" go? am I missing something? did i tackle something to big? please help

    Tim Peterson
    [email protected]


  2. #2
    I'm addicted to Polaris PWC ghostinstallations's Avatar
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    Welcome to The Hulk!

    What you need to do is to route the three individual outputs to the three carbs and cap the two "pass thru" ports on the carb rail.

    For a diagram go here: http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl....is-fuji-engine

    then select the link half way down listed "Fuel hose routing for triple fuel pump upgrade"

  3. #3
    Superd2K's Avatar
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    1,2,3

    Use better hose clamps, though. This was my first rodeo with these type of carbs about two years ago.

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    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Superd2K View Post
    1,2,3

    Use better hose clamps, though. This was my first rodeo with these type of carbs about two years ago.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    What did you use to block of the feed through lines? .38 special casings?

  5. #5
    Thanks to both of you and John Zigler for the help, this is exactly what I needed answered, I'm sure you will here from this "novice" soon

  6. #6
    Now that this is done.... and I have never adjusted the carbs to begin with, will this update to the fuel pump require any special adjustment to the carbs? If so should I take it in or is this something I can do myself?

  7. #7
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    The update itself shouldn't require any carb adjustments.

    They are all pretty easily done by yourself. You can find the factory needle settings in the manual. It wouldn't hurt to at least close the high and low speed needles on each carb counting how many turns until they are lightly seated. Write those down (to the closest 1/8 turn) so you have them for reference. Check your numbers against the manual and see how the compare. With everything closed and numbers written down, you can simply open the needs back up the same turns you counted to close them to set the carb back where the were. Or, you can set them to factory, check your wash after some good run time, and adjust from there......

  8. #8
    Superd2K's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFishCrisis View Post
    What did you use to block of the feed through lines? .38 special casings?
    Those were fittings supplied by Zig in his kit. They had a tendency to slip out, especially with those hose clamps, so I just started cutting a 1/4" brass barb in half and soldered the ends. Now, I just solder them shut like the 780's. I also use Oetiker clamps now. Much cleaner and greater piece of mind.

  9. #9
    burtonrider10022's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Superd2K View Post
    Those were fittings supplied by Zig in his kit. They had a tendency to slip out, especially with those hose clamps, so I just started cutting a 1/4" brass barb in half and soldered the ends. Now, I just solder them shut like the 780's. I also use Oetiker clamps now. Much cleaner and greater piece of mind.
    Pics?

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