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  1. #1

    99 Kawasaki STX1100 overheating in water, not on hose?

    I have a 99 STX1100 that I bought beginning of last year. Ran great last year. Took it out this year and within 10 minutes overheated and wiped #3 rings. took apart, had all 3 bored to .5MM over and rebuilt. Started on hose and runs cool. Put in water ran for 5 minutes and very hot. When engine was apart, looked and blew air through all cooling water ports and found only a few grains of sand.When I connect the garden hose to the water intake line from the impeller it runs cool. I'm at a loss and any help would be appreciated. A couple of questions I have; what is the normal temp of engine when running? Could this be caused from the impeller? I've checked the line from impeller and it's clear. The 1st time, I wasn't sure if it overheated or lost oil so I swapped over to oil block off with premix. Only thing I can think of is to take it apart again and check for blockage again.


  2. #2
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    welcome to GH.

    your impeller may be cavitating from what you describe this can seriously reduce water flow to the engine. Run it on the trailer in water after you get it ready this time and confirm water flow..but you mention the impeller..which is a rare issue...why?..problems back there?

    Since nothing changed but down time I'd suspect a mud dauber nest somewhere.

  3. #3
    Thanks for the reply. I only mention the impeller since I blew compessed air through everything when I had it apart and visually checked all parts and didn't find any issues. Water flow seems to be good from impeller when in water on trailer( not sure if it's lower then normal)and have water coming out the pisser, but not a strong flow when idling(not sure if lower then normal). Just trying to eliminate everything before I take exhaust and head off unit to check for obstruction again. I have about 1 hour on engine since topend rebuild. Do you think I will need new gaskets again or be able to reuse? What's the best way to make sure nothings clogging cooling?( ie soak in vinegar, run wire through ports). What temperature does the engine normally run at when in the water. Anybody think of anything else other then clogged cooling that would cause this issue. I'm new to jetski's and I appreciate the help. Thanks

  4. #4
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    are you getting an overheat alarm from the sensor on the exhaust pipe? Don't know what temp is "normal" for an ultra..but to monitor pipe/head temp there is a stick on gizmo that shows the current temp of whatever it is stuck to. I used one to resolve a water issue on an old heavily modified standup that kept burning the exhaust hose. water from the tell tale is a good sign. I use CLR to clear mineral deposits.

    an engine air leak from the cases can toast the top end, yet not make the overheat alarm go off.

    If the gaskets are inspected and not damaged..the could be reused..just use copper coat before assemble and plan on new gaskets of you are going to tear it down again.

    one of our resident ultra experts will get around here at some point, perhaps with something I haven't run into yet.

  5. #5
    put it in the water on trailer, make sure that coolant water enters AND exits the engine.

  6. #6
    I believe the overheat alarm comes off the pisser and not much water was coming out of it when it overheated because it was partially plugged with sand. Cleared it out when I had topend apart. I have let it run to ~140 degrees in the water using an infrared thermometer to measure temp(measuring temp on jugs, head and exhaust). On hose stays about 90 degrees. On the trailer, coolant water appears to enter and exit engine properly.

  7. #7
    140 degrees is not a damaging temp, over 200 is, is the alarm going off at 140 ?, may be a bad sensor if is.

  8. #8
    steve45's Avatar
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    It should run cold on the hose because the engine isn't putting out any power.

    After re-reading your original post, it sounds like you really haven't determined the cause of the initial failure. It may have been overheat, it may have been a lack of oil, or the carb may have been plugged and running lean. This is probably the most likely scenario.

  9. #9
    I agree 140 is not a damaging temp but it continues to go up and this is when I shut it down. Also I dont remember running close to this temp last year. After I did the rebuild, I would say it was close to 200. Trying to keep it below this point until I figure out the cause. Steve45, I agree I haven't figured out the original cause. Installed block off and went to premix with 32:1 for break-in since I thought lack of oil was the original cause. Are you thinking running lean may be the most likely scenario? If so, what advice would you give me. I've read some posts that say CV carbs are a bear to work on. Would I need to rebuild all 3 carbs? Thanks

  10. #10
    steve45's Avatar
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    What do the spark plugs look like? If they're white/light tan, it's probably too lean.

    If I were going to do one, I'd do all three.

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