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  1. #1
    xray328's Avatar
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    Please help me fix botched jetworks install...

    I had a local mechanic install my jetworks kit...a few questions.

    First, the hoses appear to be mounted way too high. From what I've read it should be under the intermediate shaft if at all possible.

    Second, why wasn't clear hose used around the valve? I have to take everything apart to make sure it's working as it is now.

    Third, when on earth was the exhaust temp sensor mounted way in the back like that? He made an long extension to put it back there. Isn't it supposed to be remounted on the stinger. Will that way work? Will the computer tell me if the sensors not being detected? Is it supposed to be spliced in like that?

    Maybe jetworks changed things? Has anyone seen it done like this?
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  2. #2
    A child of five would understand this. Go get one. pierowman's Avatar
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    Well the hose doesnt have to be clear. Also the hose shouldnt go under the intermediate shaft, it should go over to prevent it from rubbing on the shaft and causing a leak. The hight of the hose doesnt really matter since water preasure is what will open the valve not gravity.

    That is certainly an interesting way to install the temp sensor but i dont see any major issues with it. It is essentially the same end result. The sensor is where the exit cooling water is flowing which is where it needs to be. Also i would put some wireloom around the wires going to the sensor to prevent it from rubbing and shorting out.

    When your up and runnign again, I would just check that the valve is opening at the right rpm.

    If the sensor isnt plugged in the instrument cluster will tell you and wont let you start the engine. If you want to see just unplug it and try it.

  3. #3

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    That really is a interesting way to install the jetwork mod, but I dont see anything wrong with this setup, as long the jetwork open up and flow water your good to go....

  4. #4
    xray328's Avatar
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    Any reason I can't use clear braided hose? I just like to be able to see water flowing in case the valve clogs.

  5. #5
    A child of five would understand this. Go get one. pierowman's Avatar
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    You can use that if you want. The jetworks kit i have came with Clear Braided food service hose rated to 250 max psi.

  6. #6

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    The black metal block is so you do not have to drill and tap a new hole in the stinger for the sensor. Usually it would be in the same line but closer to the engine, but it is fine there if the wiring is soldered and well sealed, and out of the way actually compared to mine. I would not plumb the stinger outlet water to the sensor block, that is forcing too much water out of one line where there were two.(normal upper stinger outlet, and the second out with the exhaust). I like to run the stinger water out the bottom of the stinger, and under the intermediate shaft, and out a low mounted pisser in the back by the bottom of the pump. The reason is that allows the engine to drain all the water out easily when shut down. If you run that line back up over the top, you will not naturally drain the engine when shut off because you trap the water in.
    Lastly, a braided clear hose is not really worthwhile in my opinion, because you really cannot tell if water is moving in it or not, especially before the valve. Once water fills it, you cannot easily tell. Its a bit more trouble, but you know for sure if you unhook the outlet and check for opening rpm/water flow.

  7. #7
    the sensor in that location will not trigger if to hot at the stinger... The sole purpose of that temp sensor is to detect a problem between the stinger and waterbox.
    might as well run a chip and remove that sensor and sensor manifold...

    most of the time it`s to late when that sensor trips anyway...

    although the stealth "Y" fitting ( not shown here) does work good for a jetworks dump tied into the exit line from the top of the stinger to transom, It appears that the flow dead heads into the sensor manifold here with no real directional control, in this case do the separate line out...

    do not use crap rubber hose from pump to valve to fitting, fitting to out... That braided crap gets hard and will eventually stain making it difficult to see anything anyways. Quite a few have used that yellow high pressure hose found at Lowes...

  8. #8
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    Where can u find quality colored hose?

  9. #9
    xray328's Avatar
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    Well that's just great...

    Nothing like paying someone to do something I could of done better myself.

    I knew something was wrong when he said he had to do electrical work to install it.

  10. #10

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    Isn't the purpose of that sensor the actual engine water overheat warning, like the old ones that were in the head?
    Quote Originally Posted by Pale Rider View Post
    the sensor in that location will not trigger if to hot at the stinger... The sole purpose of that temp sensor is to detect a problem between the stinger and waterbox.
    might as well run a chip and remove that sensor and sensor manifold...

    most of the time it`s to late when that sensor trips anyway...

    although the stealth "Y" fitting ( not shown here) does work good for a jetworks dump tied into the exit line from the top of the stinger to transom, It appears that the flow dead heads into the sensor manifold here with no real directional control, in this case do the separate line out...

    do not use crap rubber hose from pump to valve to fitting, fitting to out... That braided crap gets hard and will eventually stain making it difficult to see anything anyways. Quite a few have used that yellow high pressure hose found at Lowes...

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