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  1. #1

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    new with issues...97 sltx 1050

    im new to most of this, i have a little experience with 2 stroke dirtbikes but not much with multi cylinders and carbs. I just got the ski and was told the cdi and stator upgrade has been done, the oil pump and tank are gone...my issue is with the MFD..i am getting the flashing red light and alternating OIL and HOT message, this starts even before the ski has been started, i have read several posts here and disconnected the blue wire to the oil sender and put a 33 ohm resistor between the blue and black terminal, no change, undid this and hooked the sender back up and checked it (its reading 33 ohms with the float ziptied up) made no difference, I know this has been discused on here but my 16 year old son is dying to ride and i would realy like to know whats going on before I let him take it out, any and all help is greatly appreciated, hopefuly I will learn enough in time to be a little help to some in the future.


  2. #2
    Banned User
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    I have seen that happen on a few MFDs. You can try the reset procedure and see if that corrects it. Do the warnings go away when you start the ski? I had one flash hot, but the warning would go away when you started the engine. I have 2 of them sitting here that do the same thing and I can't make it go away. A replacement MFD may be in order. Check the overheat sensor and make sure its not grounded.

  3. #3
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    MFD Reset:

    You may need to first touch the Mode button to wake up the MFD
    Press and hold the MODE and SET buttons until CAL 0000 displays. The CAL display will usually show after 4 seconds
    Release both buttons?
    Press and hold the SET key
    While continuing to hold the SET key and within 2 seconds of pressing the SET key, press and hold the MODE key
    Don't release either key until the MFD shuts down (about ten seconds).
    After the MFD has shut itself down, press the mode key to turn the MFD on
    Depress the MODE key repeatedly until voltage is displayed and verify that the voltage reading has been restored.

  4. #4

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    When I added the resistor I went through the reset procedure, when I started it the mfd seemed to work fine for a min or two then back to the same thing, what is the best
    way to test the overheat sensor? If I crank it on the hose and it does not overheat would it be safe to take it to the lake and test with the mfd hooked up and then try it unhooked to see if it makes a difference? I have a heat gun to monitor it with, but I really don't know what temp is acceptable. THANKS again for helping!

  5. #5
    I'm addicted to Polaris PWC ghostinstallations's Avatar
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    I have one that does the same...just plain shot.

  6. #6

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    temp switch is either on or off.if you disconnect it there should not be a temp light at all.use a om meter on the wire you took off to ground and it should show an infinet reading.

  7. #7
    Sooo...how much for the 780? stimpsonjcat's Avatar
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    There is probably corrosion in the MFD that is causing a permanent 'bad condition' input to the CPU.

    I'd take it apart and see if it can be cleaned up.

    If inputting the correct resistance range won't let you clear it with a reset, you are done with what can be done to fix it externally.

  8. #8

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    Before you take it apart, make sure the problem is not the external device (temp sensor) causing the flashing red LED and the HOT indication on the MFD. Disconnect the TAN wire that is coming from the temp sensor in the electrical box. This removes the temp sensor from the MFD. With the TAN wire removed, you should not have the flashing LED or the HOT display on the MFD. At that point if you have a VOM meter measure the resistance between the disconnected tan wire and ground. If you read zero ohms then the sensor is defective. Let us know what you find.

  9. #9

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    Thanks...this is exactly the info I was looking for. I will try it out tomorrow and let you know what happens.

  10. #10

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    I disconnected the tan wire (it is blue with a tag marking it tan) started it up and still flashing and codes. I tried to ohm the sensor but I am not sure that I did it right...got no reading with the meter, red lead to sensor lead, black lead to ground. Then i removed the sensor from the exhaust to look at it, put it back in, disconnected the MFD and ran the ski for a few mins. Put the MFD back in, reset it and started it up., NO light or codes. turned it off and started it up a few times, still no codes or light.

    There is a black wire coming from the black bus bar inside the electrical box that is taped up and not hooked to the battery. the guy I got the ski from told me the upgraded electrical components get ground from somewhere else and not to hook the wire to the battery, does this make sense?

    I am also having trouble getting it to idle. Seems to run alright at higher RPM's but doesnt want to idle. I tried adjusting what I think is the idle screw on the 1st carb (where the throttle cable hooks up)but to get it to stay running it has to be turned up way to high. I have no experience with multiple carbs, anything to try first?

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