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  1. #1

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    150 Oil Vent Line to Turbo Mod. - Searched, But Cannot Find - Catch Can Install

    I thought the line was the fresh water line, boy was I wrong. Ski got a little hot, maybe alot hot, but shut it down, cooled it off, and limped in. Appears to be OK and runs well now that I have water back on. Looked at manual, cursed abit about my bonehead move, then went to look for correct line.

    It is the line off the top of the reservoir that goes to the banjo bolt and then to the turbo and sure enough you cannot access the end of the line very well, correct.

    Thinking of snipping the line 1/2 way between the banjo bolt and the turbo. Cap the line off on turbo end. Put a barb in the banjo bolt end of line, add hose length enough to run it back to catch can I will install soemwhere above drive shaft area.

    Anybody have a better set-up, any pix you could post? Gotta get rid of this dam potential oil stream to Turbo/Intake.


  2. #2
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Hey Koodat. I'm a tad confused as to which hose your talking about. You mention the hose back to the airbox and you mention the oil pressure line.

    First off... you working with the stock oil tank or the upgraded oil tank?

    On the stock oil tank... there is an oil separator/cyclone attached to the side of the oil tank (battery side). Off the top of this cyclone is where the long hose connects that leads all the way back to the airbox (beside the turbo). This is the emissions recirc line that sucks in oil vapors/foamy/oil back into the intake tract. I've not seen any pics of folks removing this line and putting in a breather/catch-can. But if I were to... I'd put a hose on the top of the cyclone and run the hose into a secured soda bottle "catch can" full of steel wool with a few vent holes at the top. That should give the oily vapors a place to collect. Not EPA friendly... and wouldn't be very rollover friendly either since any collected oil would spill out if upside down.

    If we're talking about the new tank. Then this same problematic recirc hose back to the airbox comes off the right (battery side) upper nipple of the rollover tank. And here is a good few pictures of how 'dosuser' looped that around and into a catch-can:
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...l=1#post909227

    As for the smaller oil lines... that attached to the rear side of the head. If you have the stock oil tank... then one line goes from the head to the top of the oil tank. This is needed. When the engine is running, oil pressure in this line opens a valve on top of the stock oil tank to vent it to atmosphere... so it doesn't build up pressure. When the engine stops running... no more oil pressue... and this valve closes... preventing oil from escaping the oil tank... like in the event of a rollover. The other line coming off the same double-stack banjo bolt on the rear of the head is the oil supply line to the turbo. Don't mess with this... very important.

    On the new oil tank... this oil pressure line that goes to the top of the oil tank is removed and not used. Only the oil supply to the turbo is kept... using a new single-stack banjo bolt provided in the upgrade oil tank kit.

    Cheers!

  3. #3
    Hi Koodat,

    Here are a few pics of the catch can I built and then installed. I must say these work great. I have been running my MSX 150 for 15 hours since the install and have not had 1 spec of oil or oily residue on my sensors or intake track.

    The previous owner had overfilled and rolled the machine and I had oil in every part of the intake including the IC. I was able to remove the IC through the front of the machine and do a thourough cleaning. After having to remove the IC I knew I didn't want to do that again so I decided to go the catch can route.

    The vent will steam vapors out of the top but it never collects on anything in the engine compartment. I believe between the two fresh air intake pipes and the turbo sucking in air inside the engine bay it allows the vapors to escape without building up too much inside the engine bay. Definitely the best thing you can do to these motors to prevent sensor contamination down the road. As you see in one of my photos you want to tap into the oil hose coming off of the cyclone which then heads to the intake box as ripcuda mentioned (runs on top of exhaust by the O2 sensor). Do not cut the tube with the banjo fitting as this is the necessary oil supply line to your turbo which will cause major damage. Follow this black 3/4" vent tube from the cyclone to the air intake box. I removed the 100 degree air intake tube from my turbo to IC to access the vent tube closer to the air box. After removing the intake tube I then had access to cut the vent tube about 1 inch from the air box and then placed a plug in it with a hose clamp to seal the hose off. I then used high temp zip ties to secure the catch can to the large vertical exhaust rubber hose. The rubber allows the catch can to stay put in rough water. I have not had any issues with the catch can moving around in rough water with this setup.

    Hope this helps,

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  4. #4
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Nice simple catch can TJ! I like it.

    Does the lower nipple go anywhere? Or do you just have it capped off and use it to drain the catch can?

    How much oil does it collect?

    Thanks for sharing!

  5. #5
    Hi ripcuda,

    The lower nipple is actually just a valve that I can open to drain any oil that collects in the catch can. As far as collecting oil I never really measured it but would say roughly a tablespoon every 5-6 hours.

    Thanks,

  6. #6

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    That thing is sweet. Is that a 3/4" barb x thread for the line from the cyclone? What is the size of the PVC reducing tee. Where did you obtain that filter?

  7. #7

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    ttt

  8. #8
    Hi Koodat -

    I can't remember the exact size of the components. To be honest, I went to Menards (large home improvement store chain in the Midwest) and started laying everything out on the floor in the plumbing section till I got something that would work (Might help to print a pic and bring it to the store for refrence). I believe the T pipe has a 2" top and bottom hole with a 1.5" hole in the side. The barb is 3/4" and I can't quite remember the thread size. The valve on the bottom is intended for an air compressor (air tank drain), I'm sure there are better options but thats all I could find at the store at the time. The filter is actually a crankcase breather filter I purchased at O'Reilly Auto Parts. Copy and paste this link into your browser. (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...0572/C0088.oap).

    FYI - I'm up to 30hrs of use with the catch can and I just pulled the intake boost sensor to take a look for the fun of it. The sensor looked like it was brand new and did not have one spec of oil residue on it. My ski has been running flawlessly now that the sensors are not getting ruined due to oil contamination.

    Hope this helps,
    TJ

  9. #9

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    Feb 2008
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    I got it done and did find the breather at O-Rielly's. Thanks for the help.

  10. #10
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	322223the best $30 spent on this machine so far

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