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  1. #1

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    02 Virage still won't run!

    2002 Polaris Virage had no spark. Replaced battery, fuel water sep, fuel lines, filters, ig coil, stator, and just now the CDI box. After the CDI box (which was the last thing) we do have spark now, but it still will not crank. It turns over, but that's it... ANY ideas??? I'm not extremely mechanical, but did have someone else check the wires before I ordered the CDI.


  2. #2

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    2002 Virage help!

    I posted this earlier, but possibly in wrong forum...
    2002 Virage (about 102 hours). Had no spark. Replaced battery, plugs, plug wires, fuel lines, fuel water sep, ig coil, stator... No change. Replaced CDI today and have spark now, but still won't crank! It turns over, but won't fully crank. Don't know what else to try. Any ideas would be great! I'm no mechanic and had all but CDI done at a marina, but installed CDI myself. I do have a red/purple wire that has three ends (as crazy as that sounds) and the end with the plastic connector has nowhere it could go... I'm going crazy over this thing!

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rachel View Post
    2002 Polaris Virage had no spark.

    Replaced battery, fuel water sep, fuel lines, filters, ig coil, stator, and just now the CDI box.
    After the CDI box (which was the last thing) we do have spark now, but it still will not crank. It turns over, but that's it...

    ANY ideas??? I'm not extremely mechanical, but did have someone else check the wires before I ordered the CDI.
    Quote Originally Posted by Rachel View Post
    I posted this earlier, but possibly in wrong forum...
    2002 Virage (about 102 hours). Had no spark.

    Replaced battery, plugs, plug wires, fuel lines, fuel water sep, ig coil, stator... No change.

    Replaced CDI today and have spark now, but still won't crank! It turns over, but won't fully crank.

    Don't know what else to try. Any ideas would be great!

    I'm no mechanic and had all but CDI done at a marina, but installed CDI myself.

    I do have a red/purple wire that has three ends (as crazy as that sounds) and the end with the plastic connector has nowhere it could go... I'm going crazy over this thing!
    Welcome to the Hulk

    There are only volunteers here, so posts and questions get answered when someone has the time and inclination to do so. Sometimes you will get a quick response, sometimes not.

    Terminology point;
    When you press the Start button and the starter motor causes the engine internals to rotate, that is called cranking. Sometimes the same action is called turning the engine over.

    If the engine actually fires up and begins running that is called starting and running.

    It sounds like your engine now has spark and will crank when you hold the Start button but you are not getting any firing of the cylinders. Is this correct?

    Does it sometimes try to fire and start but not keep running? Any backfiring?

    Two cylinder engine with carburetor - correct?

    Do you have spark continuously while the Start button is pressed, or only when the Start button is released?

    Did you make note of the electrical box wiring before the CDI was changed?

    What part number is on the CDI? If there is a handwritten number, post that too.

    What part number is the new stator (perhaps from the Marina invoice?)

    Mechanical basics; Cylinder compression check?

    If you prime the carburetor air intake throats with a spoonful of fuel does it start and run for a few seconds?

  4. #4

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    Thank you for replying! Yes, the engine will turn over, but won't actually run. Not even for a second. No backfiring. After replacing the CDI, it does have continuous spark, not just when the start button is released. Yes, two cylinder with carb is correct. I plugged each new wire in as I unplugged each wire off the old box. CDI part #4010803 nothing handwritten. Stator is part#4010172. Everything replaced has been new parts, also. Priming the carb did not work. I have no clue how to check compression. There is one mechanic who works on Polaris in GA, he's about 3 hours away. One way! That's who told me it was the CDI. I tried the coil, fuel lines, seperator, filters, and stator first. I only have basic skills since 1-I'm a girl, 2-Have only worked on vehicles or mowers and 3- again, I'm a girl... Lol!

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Lanyard in place?

    Cylinder compression check?
    If you do not have a screw-in type compression gauge find someone who does, or buy one. When checking compression all spark plugs are out and throttle is held wide open.

    Girls can do this stuff too

    What is the machine history from before it failed? How did it fail? What diagnostics were done before the new parts we're installed?

  6. #6

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    Yes, lanyard is in place when attempting to start it. As far as maching history. It was owned by my mother until 3 years ago. It has always been used by my kids and I, so we have always had it winterized and kept in garage mid Sept - April. The oil is changed before we use it and mid summer again. The spark plugs and battery are replaced every year before we put it in the lake. Fresh water only, never been in salt. Fuses have been replaced as needed and 3 years ago the carb was cleaned up. This year when we went to put it in, it ran us out about 1/4 mile and died. A local marina replaced a fuse and it did the same thing again... made it about 500 yards that time. It's been on the trailer since. I took it to someone initially, so I'm not sure what all diagnostics were run before we did the initial parts. Everything was ohmed out before we replaced the CDI.
    Is it safe to do the compression check with no water running thru it? If so, I'll try to find someone who can help me out with a guage this afternoon.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Several comments;

    There is no oil to 'change' in these 2-stroke engines. There is an external oil tank and the engine will slowly consume that oil as it runs. Generally speaking the oil tank would need topping up (refilling) every 4-8 tanks of gasoline. The oil required is different from the oil used in car engines, and is sold specifically for use with 2-stroke engines.

    If the oil tank is allowed to become very low or empty then the engine can suffer internal damage. There is a warning red light and message on the MFI display if the oil level gets below 1/4 tank.

    Have you been connecting the engine to a garden hose for any testing? If so, there is a specific sequence for doing so. Otherwise there is a real risk of water flooding into the engine internally.

    There is no need for garden hose connection for any testing you will be doing out of the water. You can safely run these engines for 20 seconds or so without any water. If the engine is stone cold beforehand, even a bit longer is no problem.

    Cranking the engine on the battery while testing cylinder compression only requires that the battery be well charged and otherwise healthy.

    Fuses should not blow, ever. Well, almost never. Any failure of a fuse in these machines is an indication of a possible problem. Not sure what you meant by replacing fuses 'as needed' but I am surprised that any fuses were needing replacement prior to the current issue.

    New battery every year? You need to buy better quality batteries! Next time around, buy a Deka brand AGM battery model ETX16. Take proper care of it and it should last multiple years.

    Back to the fuses. Blown fuse after a short run. Replaced fuse, blew again after another short run? Something wrong, obviously.

    Do you know where the fuses are located? If so, check that the correct fuses are installed.

    To be clear, in addition to two fuses there is a 'Reset button' (actually it is a circuit breaker). This is a clear plastic dome with a white pop up button inside. If it pops up it disconnects power, and is 'reset' by pressing it back down. Has the Reset button ever popped up?

    Has the engine ever run properly since the magento stator and other non-CDI parts were replaced? Even for a few seconds?

  8. #8

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    No, it has not run with any of the new parts. We sell Deka batteries, that's why we replace it every year. The marina that drains the fuel, etc. to winterize it is who was doing something with the oil too. Not sure what. I guess they were just topping it off. We use Yamalube oil. The reset button has not popped up that I know of. There is a fuse that has been replaced twice. The first time was while my mother had it and then when it started doing this. No clue which fuse. No, we have not been connecting a hose, but I didn't know if we needed to. My neighbor has a compression gauge and is checking it when he gets home.

  9. #9

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    Friend went to look at carb and realized it's not getting fuel. Any easy way to get to the fuel pump? Ran power straight to it and it's not doing anything

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rachel View Post
    Friend went to look at carb and realized it's not getting fuel.

    Any easy way to get to the fuel pump?

    Ran power straight to it and it's not doing anything
    The fuel pump is NOT electric on a carburetor engine. The only electrical connection at the fuel tank on a carburetor is for the fuel level display and it runs at very low voltage, much less than 12 volts.

    Please confirm that the spark plugs on this engine stick straight up from the top of the engine. A fuel injected Ficht engine has spark plugs laying down at a low angle, not straight up.

    You previously said priming the carbs with a splash of fuel did not work. If priming doesn't work then fuel delivery to the carbs is not the problem (or not the only problem).

    Prime the carb intake again with some more fuel and try starting it (no choke required when priming). If it coughs and/or runs for a few seconds then report back. Backfires are a different story.

    The actual fuel pump is mechanical and is located on/in the carb itself. It is powered by a hose that runs down to a nipple on the side of the crankcase. The crankcase produces air pressure pulses that drive a diaphragm inside the fuel pump, which in turn pumps fuel from the tank via mild suction.

    There must be enough fuel in the tank and the entire fuel system from tank to fuel pump must be air tight to prevent air bubbles getting sucked into the fuel flow.

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