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  1. #1

    Not great 1st day with new to us 12F. & 15F

    Both machines (2004)- 126 hours. 1st chance to get them wet today. The 15 ran great on the trailer and then just falls flat under way. Can't even keep it running. Pull seat and it runs good. I found a BIG hole on exhaust hose (blue 3" section). Also - display starts out mostly working other than Bat Warning and after the few minutes of struggling- it goes completely blank. Turn key off and on and it comes back. Looks like exhaust hose and display need replacing.

    The 12F started difficult but at least ran and stayed running. Couldn't get it past 6k RPM and 44 MPH....definitely didn't feel strong.

    Any Ideas or suggestions?


  2. #2
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Check the impellers in the pump, change the spark plugs in both, use a full tank of fresh 93 octane fuel and check the 12 for exhaust leaks.

    Sean

  3. #3
    wotxxxsd's Avatar
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    When you change the plugs be very careful not to break them.
    Also use anti seize on the new plugs..

  4. #4
    Thanks- being new, I'm not too familiar with maintenance and would rather sound stupid asking than screw up.

    Is there an air filter to clean/change? I did fill up, the tanks were completely empty so I know the fuel is good - but -used 87 per some posts on here. Should I add some octane boost?

    I checked the bottom of the exhaust hose on the 12 and it seemed OK- unlike the 15- may change both as a precaution... is there a good source for those? Also- any other exhaust leak check tips? is it wise to cover the outside outlet with a wet rack to amplify any leaks?

    I'll do a search on checking the impellers but I presume there's some disassembly to get a good look? Are impellers repairable (like props) or is it a replacement item?

    Plugs are pretty straight forward (i think)- any suggestions- OEM, Irridium- gapping?

    I ran them in salt water and flushed them both for a good 5-10 minutes... is it wise to rinse off the engine and internal hull everytime? Any recommendations on keeping that clean and new (protectants, sprays, processes etc..)?

    thanks for all the help!

  5. #5
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    Send me a pm and remind me to post the how to on how to remove and check the pump. On the plugs, follow the manual to the t. Use anti seize on the new ones, warm up the engine by running it for a little on the old plugs before you try to remove them. Also spray a little penetrating oil (one squirt) in each plug hole just to be safe. Don't use a lot. The exhaust hose can be replaced with factory or HTS high temp silicone (my recommendation) I order mine through verociousmotorsports.com you want the high temp 4 ply. When I flush I always rinse the inside and every few rides I spray with fluid film or CRC. I also will partially fill the hull just up to the drive shaft and add some dish soap and drive around then drain and hose it off. I wouldn't run 87 in either ski but that's me. Definitely don't run 87 in the 12. Pull it out and put it in the 15.

    Sean

  6. +1 by:

    JAV

  7. #6
    Moderator Insanediego Joe's Avatar
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    Dont flush for five to ten minutes... that is way to long. You have to remember the pump bearings are cooled by water running thru the pump. flush for 1 minute and call it good. 10 minutes is crazy.

  8. #7
    thanks guy- lots of great info and i appreciate the help! Some good /bad news?

    I had some time so I jumped in and removed the plugs. I found that they were all loose or finger tight at best (perhaps from winterizing??). Literally, I removed all of them with the extension on a socket by hand- no ratchet or wrench required. They looked decent (NGK R CR9EK) newish BUT- I can't imagine there wasn't some compression loss. I'm going to replace all of them with new for peace of mind (both machines).

    So I guess I over did on the flush?? I've been reading horror stories about the pot metal coolant fitting under the intake manifold and given that I was in salt water, I thought the longer the better. 1 Minute from now on.... hope I didn't toast the bearings.

    Since both of my machines are 2004- should I pull the intakes manifolds (doesn't look fun) and check/change those coolant fittings? Is there a way to check if their the brass ones w/out pulling the intake? I presume the air box has to come out to remove the intakes?

    Sean- thanks for the help and I'll PM you re: the pump procedure. I'll also run 93 octane from now on.

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Insanediego Joe View Post
    Dont flush for five to ten minutes... that is way to long. You have to remember the pump bearings are cooled by water running thru the pump. flush for 1 minute and call it good. 10 minutes is crazy.
    Wrong dude it's not a seedooo. 5 mins is good. 1 min won't do nada. 10 mins is to long.

  10. #9
    Moderator Insanediego Joe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FIRE0021 View Post
    Wrong dude it's not a seedooo. 5 mins is good. 1 min won't do nada. 10 mins is to long.
    So kawasaki skis dont have pump bearings?

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Insanediego Joe View Post
    So kawasaki skis dont have pump bearings?
    Of course they have pump bearings. But people try to compare seedooo to Kawi witch does not have a carbon seal to overheat when out of the water as well as Kawi uses a different type of bearing in the pump. When flushing wTer is also going thriugh the pump I have never ever herd of anyone frying a Kawi pump at the wash station.

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