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  1. #1

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    Need instructions for how to remove starter bendix on 2002 Polaris Virage TXI 1200

    Hello, I am new to this board and going to attempt to replace the starter bendix on our 2002 Polaris Virage TXI 1200 by myself. Would someone kindly be able give me some easy-to-follow instructions on how to do it? History is that ski was working fine last time it was used, then wouldn't start on the lake ramp the next time we went. Just sounded like something was spinning when you pushed the start button. Pulled the ski back out of the water and hooked it all up ready to go home then pushed the starter button one more time and it started (go figure!). Had fun the rest of the day, but the next time we went it wouldn't start again, so that is why we are guessing it is a problem with the bendix. And yes, the battery has checked out fine too. I have reviewed the service manual, but I think actual "how-to" instructions from you experienced people would be much better! Thanks!


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    Is the machine nearby where you can easily check things and go back and forth?

    Do you want to order replacement parts before you pull it apart or wait until you can see everything that may need replacement?

  3. #3

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    Yes, the ski is right outside the door from the computer. I want to remove everything before replacement. I am now hunting for the bolts on the oil pump, can't see them using 8mm wrench.

    The area to work in around the oil pump is so tiny and narrow, would it be easier to remove the motor mounts and slide the entire motor back to get to this area?

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Seriously, it is no fun at all to try removing the flywheel with the engine inside the hull. It is doable, but much cursing will be required.

    My suggestion is to remove the engine from the hull. It seems like a lot of work but once it is out the work on the flywheel and starter Bendix will be much, much easier.

    I recently removed three engines from various hulls and installed one engine back in. I used a small chain hoist to lift the engine out, and that makes it much easier to maneuver the engine through the seat opening when you don't have to hold the weight of the engine in your hands.

  5. #5
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk! I have a good used bendix here if you haven't already picked one up. Shoot me a PM if you are interested.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Seriously, it is no fun at all to try removing the flywheel with the engine inside the hull. It is doable, but much cursing will be required.

    My suggestion is to remove the engine from the hull. It seems like a lot of work but once it is out the work on the flywheel and starter Bendix will be much, much easier.

    I recently removed three engines from various hulls and installed one engine back in. I used a small chain hoist to lift the engine out, and that makes it much easier to maneuver the engine through the seat opening when you don't have to hold the weight of the engine in your hands.
    That's exactly what I was thinking, once I looked in there and saw the tiny space that I had to work in! I have access to a neighbor'
    s chain hoist, but since this is the first time I have ever done this, please tell me what to do with all the numerous hoses and cables? Did you label them or something?

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    As you remove bolts, nuts and other parts, put them in clear plastic sandwich bags, each carefully labelled with what it is from/for. Then file them in a shoebox in the order you remove stuff.

    Take digital photos of everything and every step. Make paper notes as you go of things to check or remember as you put it back together.

    Read the service manual carefully, and visualize how each step will happen.

    Each hull is a little different, and the amount of stuff you need to remove depends on how imaginative you can be with extracting the engine.

    At a minimum you will be removing the large exhaust pipe, and possibly the waterbox may have to come out to give you elbow room. Unplug the exhaust temp sensor and label the wire harness connector.

    Leave the small hose that loops from one place on top of the exhaust pipe to another nipple, but disconnect any other water hoses needed to allow you to shift the pipe out of the way.

    Remove the large bolts that hold the exhaust pipe in place. There will be a couple down low on the side of the pipe holding it to the motor. Mild cursing is common.

    Note: Step number one is to remove the battery entirely from the hull, and put it somewhere safe. You did review all the instructions before you began, eh?

    On the non-exhaust side, you will be removing;

    Flame arrestor cover, core and base plate. When you remove the long base plate bolts the entire throttle body assembly will become loose.

    Both cables at front end of throttle body. Make photos and notes of how they were attached, and also how the cable is attahed to the oil pump.

    Unplug the TPS and temp sensor (on bottom of flame arrestor base plate)

    Disconnect and cap small oil lines from throttle body assembly and lift throttle body out as a unit. Wrap in soft cloth and set aside.

    Note: Stuff soft clean cloths or paper into each engine opening to prevent grit and other stuff from falling into the engine. Don't forget to cover the injector holes.

    Disconnect various cooling hoses, label each hose as you go. More photos. Don't forget the ones on the front of the engine.

    At some point you will need to remove the jet pump. Details on how to do that via my signature links. Slide the drive shaft rearward to disengage the engine PTO coupler 'spider'.

    The entire fuel injector set can remain together. Just take out the six bolts, lift the injectors with their brackets and slide the whole thing into a large cloth 'sleeve'. There should be enough hose slack to lay it off to the side or front of the hull opening.

    Unplug the fuel injector electrical connectors, label and move aside.

    Use a pointed metal scribe to trace around the metal washers at the engine mounts. Make notes and take clear close up photos. You want to be able to set the engine down exactly where it came from when you put it back in.

    Remove the engine mount NUTS and big washers.

    Eventually as you lift the engine up you will be able to better get at the oil pump and remove it from the front of the engine. If you can get it off earlier, great. Put the whole oil pump and all hoses (still connected to the oil pump) into a large zip lock bag.

    Continue removing stuff until there is nothing preventing the engine from rising out of the hull. Remember to disconnect the red starter motor cable from the solenoid. Also remove the engine ground bolt and black cables.

    Decide whether the exhaust manifold can stay on or must be removed.

    For lifting the engine I use a ratchet strap (not a cam lock strap) wrapped right under the engine and around twice. This creates a sling to which I attach the chain hoist.

    Ease the engine up off the mounts. As it comes free be careful it does not slip or cause damage to your fingers or the Virage. Double check that nothing is still connected.

    Now you should be able to slowly lift, twist and turn the engine to get it through the hull opening and into free air. Move the hull aside and lower the engine onto a workmate or similar work surface.

    This summary is incomplete I am sure (working from memory here). Review and double check before you start and as you proceed.

  8. #8

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    WOW! Thanks for such detailed directions. Sure wish you could do the repair for me. I have always been mechanically minded and able to most all the repairs on our vehicles, however sometimes hating to tackle the job in the first place and swearing to leave it to the professionals "next time". Unfortunately, PWC repair looks to be a whole different kind of thing than what my shade tree mechanical skills are used to, but I plan to tackle this project starting tommorrow morning with your directions. I will review them all again tonight and the service manual too. Thanks again and wish me luck.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Oh yes, sometimes the service manual forgets to mention a step or to along the way! Keeps you on your toes

    Pay attention to existing cable and hose routings. Sometimes the original factory location is less than optimal. Check for chafing along every hose and wire loom.

    While you are working on the engine do all the other inspection and maintenance stuff like cleaning the thermostat housing and the exhaust water injection orifice and screen.

    I generally run a thread tap into every bolt hole and clean all bolts with a thread die before I put things back together.

    Where are you located? There may be someone nearby willing to do the work. Update your Profile with your location, etc.

  10. #10
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    I would check all of your bolt torques, especially ones that you cant get at with the motor in the hull......

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