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  1. #1

    2007 Gpr won't rev up under load

    So 2007 engine that I rebuilt last year never had a chance to get it on the water but it starts up and idles fine but on the water it won't rev up past 3500 to 4000 rpm I am very annoyed so far.
    Has a dplate free flow flame arrester jetworks new plugs new crank new piston and jug redone on #2. Reeds looked okay when they were out. The tps was not working right so I thought this was the problem so after I replaced it and calibrated it I thought the problem should be fixed but it's not. I pulled the head and it all looks fine. Compression is 120 or so across the board. Idles fine still but still won't get up aand go. Got pissed off and took it to tthe closest Yamaha waverunner dealer aand explained the problem and the useless yards put a new plug in it and told me its fine without even testing it. I am seriously nnot impressed at them so far. I have no faith in them tto bother taking it back tto charge me another 120 bucks to do nothing again so I am running out of ideas here. Cleaned all the connectors but no better. There are no codes showing up except the code 15 from taking out the exhaust chip to try that. I have rebuilt many 2 strokes and never had an iissue like this. I am about ready to
    set it on fire and smash it with my front end loader. Sorry for the ranting but I aam sick of owning a pos that does t work for the limited season I have. I don't know what to do next with this ski

    If anyone has any ideas I would love to hear them i don't have the means to check the injectors as iif I pull the fuel rail off they pop out of the rail due to the fuel pressure. The yds software says everything is in spec when Philipgpr checked it out for me.

  2. #2
    If you run it on one cylinder with 2 plug wires off will it idle on each 1 cylinder alone?

  3. #3
    thats one of the first things i did, however i just went out to the garage and tried again and it wont run on cyl 3 so clearly thats the issue , I am gonna test the compression again now just have to go get the tester from my shop. Will post the updates soon as I get back.

  4. #4
    Checked the compression it's 130, 140, 130 for 1 2 3 and number 2 is the new cyl so sounds good to me I guess I need to get a new injector to put in number 3 and try it again? There is lots of spark on all 3 cyl as well

  5. #5
    You may want to invert #2 and #3 injector to see if the issue follows the injector or stays with the cylinder (it may save you the cost of the injector if it is another issue). If you have the tools, you may want to do a pressure test on the motor also being #3 is close to the rear seal. My problem was the pickup coil near the stator being contaminated with oil from a front seal failure but it was hell to find because I had spark on all three cylinders but the spark on #1 was not occurring at the right time so it was basically useless.

  6. #6
    BTW, I was ready to burn mine and smash it also as I needed to find the problem to fix it even if I was just wanting to sell it which I did....until I got back on the water this weekend. Man when it is running right, that thing is a blast!!! I think now I just get a/c in my shop so I can work on it in cool air lol. Let me know what you find.

  7. #7
    I am going to swap the injectors around tonight and see what happens, I put both front and rear crank seals in it when i rebuilt and new base gaskets and head gasket, only reused the exhaust gasket. So i hope to hell the rear seal is good i dont really want to pull the motor again but its not the worst thing that could happen other than i will be waiting for parts again.

  8. #8
    So swapped the injectors on cyl 2 and 3 and cyl 3 still wont fire, spark is good , comp is 130. Flushed the injector backwards with carb cleaner and they are spraying fine by eye. I pulled the reeds out and had a look and they visually look ok, no broken petals or anything bent out of sorts. I did notice when disassembling the reeds from the spacers the third one came off quite easily and the other two were stuck quite well to the spacers with Ultra black silicone or something similar. I also noticed that there is no gasket as the parts fiche shows ( I believe this is why the Ultra black was used) I never took the intake assembly apart when i rebuilt just pulled out and put it on the bench and put it back on after. I am going to do a leak down test tomorrow after I do a run to the depot to jerry rig some plugs for the throttle bodies and a cap for the exhaust.

    I also put a test light on the injectors and it is firing the light when turning the motor over so i know the injector is working.

    Should I order a new reed gasket for the intake assembly or just use some silicone such as what already was on the unit? I have cleaned most of the silicone away from all the plates and spacers etc and there are a few marks in them perhaps this is why they used the silicone instead of the stock gasket? It was a super bitch to remove it all and clean it up even using the gasket scraper and acetone.

    I really hope its not the pto crank seal leaking, would a bad seal around the reed cause the cyl to not fire even though the comp is good?

    Until tomorrow with the results

  9. #9
    Yamaha artisan Cutlass's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Madison, WI, USA
    I'd probably use a gasket and smear a little sealer in the deep scratches to fill them in, if you're concerned about those areas not sealing. If that 3rd reed wasn't sealed, that could be part of you problem. Hard to say for sure.

  10. #10
    A child of five would understand this. Go get one. pierowman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Seattle, WA
    I used 1211 to ensure i wasnt leaking there. As i understand it, that is a common place to leak and can cause similar problems. If nothing else youll gain piece of mind.

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