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  1. #1

    Virage TXi problem need help (Exhaust hose internal collapse, flow restriction)

    I have been trying to fix this monster for several weeks and still it won't make power. I have two 2002 Virage TXi 1200.

    this boat quit running while out on the lake, was able to restart but just won't make power. I think seaweed plugged the cooling line and overheated the motor.

    I have swaped the tps, cps, exhaust temp sensor, coils, injectors, EMM and even put a new stator/mag and fuel pump nothing seems to work.

    120 compression with 25psi fuel pressure. The display never flashed a red engine light, only if I unplug a sensor or move the reverse lever.

    Interesting thing happened yesterday out on the other ski I smelled plastic burning and the ski died out, took the seat off and I melted the exhaust tubes. At first the ski was acting like the first ski, starting but not able to make power or plane out. {no red flashing engine lights} Let the motor cool off and now it runs fine.

    Question am I missing some temp sensor or fuse that would keep the first ski from making power and rev correctly?

    If it's not the internal EMM temp sensor {swaped emm did not help} then what else could be causing all these headaces?

    please help!
    Last edited by K447; 08-09-2012 at 05:51 PM. Reason: Added description of final problem diagnosis to thread title


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Melted plastic resonators? Sounds like you need to remove and clean the exhaust water injection orifice and mesh filter screen.

    While you are in there remove and clean the thermostat housing and check for water flow.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Did you check the intake reeds?

    Check the rubber exhaust hoses for soft sections or any signs of heat damage. If the exhaust hoses get too hot they can internally delaminate and collapse, causing a flow restriction that prevents the engine from producing power.

    The primary cause of overheated exhaust hoses is a clogged water inlet screen inside the jet pump or a clog in the exhaust water injection orifice or screen. Both are easy to check and clean.

    If you have an exhaust leak then the engine will run poorly with weak power. If removing the seat to allow more fresh air results in more power then you probably have an exhaust leak.

  4. #4
    Did all that and there was weed, cleaned out the weed and now this ski runs fine, other ski is still not running correctly. I did check the reeds and they look good and snap shut when you lift them up slightly. I really find it hard to belive this motor is out of phase, but could the crank have twisted? Starts and idels smooth just won't rev and make power.

  5. #5
    K447 you are the expert when it comes to these skis, is there anything else I should check before I throw in the towel and part this ski out? I am totally stumped!

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wipeout View Post
    K447 you are the expert when it comes to these skis, is there anything else I should check before I throw in the towel and part this ski out? I am totally stumped!
    Remove and inspect the exhaust hoses internally. Look for any signs of delamination, collapse, overheating, softness or missing material.

    Try to do the same with the plastic resonators, waterbox and exhaust pipe.

    Where are you located?

    Make sure the entire exhaust system is clear of blockages and potential restrictions.

    Another thing to check is whether the flywheel has sheared the woodruff key and is out of index. Check the flywheel position against the MAG piston TDC.

  7. #7
    K447,
    I had the fly wheel off to change the stator thought maybe it was bad, wrong again. Key was intact and magnets tight, exhaust was modified by the 1st owner by removing the plastic baffels, ran great for a month or so after I bought it. When I start this ski (on land ) it will run smooth until I "crack the throttle" and just boggs down, in water it just boggs and won't speed up/plane out. I removed the motor to change the stator and though the hoses are a little burnt on the inside they are free from blockage. I am located in Chicago and can't find anyone willing to work on a Polaris ski. As you know our summers are short and I'm wasting tons of time and money trying to fix this ski. Advise?

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Hmmmm. If you had not already swapped the TPS I would be almost sure that was the problem, or the EMM itself. I am wondering if there is something loose or broken in the wire harness

    Will it run smoothly on land up to about 2500RPM?
    Smooth to 3500RPM?
    Will it rev well above 3500RPM?

    If you very slowly squeeze the throttle does the engine RPM also increase smoothly? Up to what RPM?

    Idle on a Ficht engine is a special mode whereby the EMM detects that the TPS signal is 'near' the idle value and decides to directly control the engine to achieve a stable 1150RPM idle mode. A TPS signal that is out of whack or electrically noisy can still have a stable idle.

    Further, my understanding is that the EMM monitors the TPS signal over time when near the idle position to 'learn' what the exact idle position voltage is. This allows slightly different TPS to achieve the same stable idle condition.

    When the throttle is moved away from the idle position then the EMM depends on the TPS providing a correct and low noise signal. If the TPS signal is electrically 'noisy' or the EMM receives voltages from the TPS that are 'out of bounds' then the EMM does not know what the actual physical throttle position is and cannot properly operate the engine.

    Cracking the throttle open on land involves the TPS signaling the EMM, the EMM increasing the pulse strength to the fuel injectors (more fuel) and adjusting the spark plug timing. The CPS signal is used to maintain timing of the fuel injection pulses and of course spark timing.

    The stator, capacitor and EMM power regulator section just need to maintain a stable 45 volts to the injectors (give or take a few volts) while the engine runs.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wipeout View Post
    ... I did check the reeds and they look good and snap shut when you lift them up slightly. I really find it hard to belive this motor is out of phase, but could the crank have twisted? Starts and idels smooth just won't rev and make power.
    Cylinder compression check?

    The odd item is your statement that this machine died while on the water, and since that restart has not run properly. Something caused it to stop running.

    Review the mechanical aspects.

    You can check the crank shaft phase using a dial indicator with a long shaft through the fuel injector holes. Wrap paper around the PTO coupler and fashion a pointer to mark TDC for each piston. Those three marks should be equidistant on the paper (120 degrees apart).

    Jet pump bearings good? Nothing stuck inside the jet pump? It is easy to remove the jet pump and drive shaft and you can run the engine with these removed.

    With drive shaft removed and spark plugs out, try turning the engine over by hand using the PTO coupler. Any grittiness or possible bearing noise? The flywheel magnets will provide some resistance to turning but the effect is not 'gritty'.

  10. #10
    K447,
    I have swaped the emm and injectors from my other ski along with the tps, cps, temp sensor, coils along with the fuel pump. I removed the engine to change the stator and check the key way, reeds and anything else I could think of. Motor spins free with no flywheel, I did not check the phase and now that the motor is back in will check that. Will rpm clean past 4000 out of water but boggs around 4500rpm. My other will ski rpm clean to 6500 out of water, is that normal?

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