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  1. #1
    Redrum's Avatar
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    Red face MSX 150 back to life

    Albeit I ran it last October right after I bought it and it seemed to run fine, I found an issue with it that threw me for a loop and caused the machine to sit most of the summer.

    When I bought this ski, after I ran it the first time I found milky oil in the oil tank. Okay this has to be water right? Brought it to my lab and tested it to confirm and it was indeed water. The test for glycols in the oil came up negative so I am supposedly not leaking antifreeze into the oil anywhere. Decided to do the oil thank update kit and found that the baffle was loose in my stock tank while I was removing it (I now have a stock tank that needs repair for sale by the way). Put in the new oil tank. While I was in there I put in a ball valve into the water inlet to shut off in case I need a tow, and a flush kit. Those flush kits are VERY expensive for these machines. For what it is you could probably build one for under $20. Anyways, I got the new oil tank situated and flushed the engine with 10 liters of Wal-Marts finest 20W-50 oil. Got most of that out and put the Mobil 1 15W-50 in.

    Now for the coolant. The previous owner switched it over to the green ethylene glycol. I wanted to switch it back to the pink propylene glycol. After a bit of reading since these types are so close, you can mix them. It's mixing the green ethylene glycol with the orange Dex-Cool stuff that is bad. The Dex-cool is just an extended life ethylene glycol formula. It contains more silicates and when you mix it with the green stuff it will gum up the system. This is supposedly not the case when mixing the green ethylene glycol and the pink RV antifreeze propylene glycol. So I drained the system as best I could on a cold engine by having it dump from the oil cooler. I flushed it with distilled water (I know the manual says use deionized water, but distilled water is the same if not better because it does not contain any microbes like deionized would) a couple times and then flushed with the pink stuff a few times and then filled.

    Now on to the exciting part. I put it on the water and she took off like a bat out of hell. I know there are more powerful machines out there, but for some reason I just love this ski! She ran wonderfully! For a while.... I brought it over to my family's cabin and let it sit in the water overnight. I go out to ride it the next morning and the hull has a bunch of water in it. I put it on the lift and drain most of the water out. I am now thinking I may have a bad through-hull bearing/seal. I take it out again for a spin around the island and come back to find no water in the hull. I am thinking with the wind storm we had water just got in there somehow from the waves, or it was from when I pressure washed it. I checked the oil and the level is right where I want it when the engine is HOT and there is no frothing going on so I think I got almost all the water out of the system. Now the antifreeze is another story. It was foaming on the surface. I did not get any check engine lights for over-temperature, but I am not sure what is going on there. I probably need to flush the system again and put fresh stuff in, but I am unsure how to do so. The service manual says to flush it by pulling the hose on the lower side of the water pump as this should be the lowest point in the system. I don't think any coolant came out of the water to antifreeze exchanger when I flushed it. It's something I need to keep an eye on for sure.

    There was once when the ski lost all power and the check engine light went on. It would not even go past idle. I cut the engine, let the MFD shut off, then restarted it and it ran fine for the rest of the day. Maybe just electrical glitch?

    My parents own the same make and model ski as I do. Mine makes this weird whining sound when idling and theirs does not. I am thinking I need to have a look at the pump seals in the stator/cone. Could be the through-hull bearings as well? Is there a way to tell without pulling the pump apart on what it may be? The through-hull seals are not leaking from what I can tell, but how can I test if the bearings in there are okay?

    All in all though, it ran to its full potential. I was getting 62-64 on the MFD consistently on choppy water/VERY windy conditions. I just need to find these last few gremlins and take care of them.

    On a side note, when I ran it last year at full throttle the engine RPMs fluctuated just a bit but it was very noticeable, especially by sound. After all the work done on it the fluctuation is gone. Not sure what it was but as long as it does not come back, I won't argue the issue.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Best way to check the jet pump bearings is to pull the jet pump and inspect. Does not take very long to do (presuming the pump is not heavily corroded in place). See my signature links for some how to videos.

    The drive shaft itself will NOT come out without a special spline tool.

    It is recommended to rebuild the MSX through-hull bearing carrier every 100 hours or every few years. If you suspect it is failing then do the rebuild anyways. Wait too long and the internal steel bearing will seize and destroy the drive shaft, which is not good.

  3. #3
    Redrum's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tips K447. We have a family friend I am going to take it to. He is going to show me everything to know about the jet pump.

    Had it out again today. Seemed to fluctuate a bit sometimes and not want to jump to WOT when pushed to some times. I am going to cross my fingers and attribute that to the gas in the tank. Half the tank is ethanol free premium, and the other half is whatever was in the ski last year when I bought it. I'll run it dry and see what a fresh new tank does for it.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Any chance there is water or gunk in the bottom of the tank?

    The Ficht fuel pump has an integral water rejecting filter but water in the fuel is still not good.

  5. #5
    Redrum's Avatar
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    I have no clue if there is water in the fuel or gunk. Don't know if I can test for that at my lab some how? I suppose I could just pull the fuel pump and check it.

  6. #6
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    drain or pain...you're choice.

    If I could get water to magically appear.....

    next tank or two should ease the issue..bad gas is really bad these days.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nmpeter View Post
    drain or pain...you're choice.

    If I could get water to magically appear.....

    next tank or two should ease the issue..bad gas is really bad these days.
    The last time I needed to drain a Ficht fuel tank I just disconnected the return fuel hose at the tank and directed the flow into a gas can. Then I grounded the brown wire and the fuel pump ran, pumping the fuel out.

    It didn't pump all that fast, but it worked. Be careful about sparks with gasoline around.

    Another method is to siphon the fuel out through the filler neck.

    After the tank is 'empty' you still need to remove the fuel pump assembly and mop up the dregs, especially if there was water or dirt down there.

  8. #8
    Redrum's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the tips!

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