I just wanted to share with everyone real quickly on how I hotwired my Walbro fuel pump. This took a lot of research to get all the parts to do the installation to my standards. I don't have a whole lot of time to write an entire write-up, but I will share enough information to get others started who may want to do the rewire this way.

First of all, you can see the wiring diagram in post #5 of this thread

Now, you have the option of totally killing your wiring harness, or you can make it look like the relay was OEM. This avoids butt connectors and creates waterproof seals. Here is what I did. My sea-doo is a 2006 rxp, so this may or may not be completely the same for other years.

First, here is a list of parts I used:

From www.racetronix.biz
FHK-004 - Fuse Holder Kit MINI 280 Series (14-18g)
RYCS-004 - Relay Connector Kit (SPDT) 630-ISO
UITWH-12 - In-tank Harness, Universal Walbro, 12
199-T-18 - T-18 Weather-Pack Seal/Terminal Crimper
199-T-6 - Terminal Removal Tool - Narrow

From www.mouser.com
12052641 - Metripack 150 connector female
12048074 - 18-16 AWG Pins
12048086 - 18 AWG seals
12089678 - 16 AWG seals
12052634 - Lock/Clip
12162000 - Metripack 150 connector male
12045773 - 18-16 AWG Pins
Seals and Lock/Clip same part numbers as female
12124075 - Metripack 150.2 18-16 AWG pins
Various 16 AWG and 18 AWG wire.

I wanted to upgrade the OEM wire to a 16 AWG for the entire fuel pump delivery circuit. This just leaves the weakest point at the bulkhead connector going into the fuel pump, but will overall make the current delivery more efficient than the factory wiring.

I installed the Walbro universal harness from racetronix into the tank using Metripack 150 18-16 AWG female pins to connect to the bulkhead mating connector. Use the removal tool to remove the old harness (2 outside connectors) from the mating connector by pressing on the top of the pin connector, then pulling the wire out from the back of the connector. Use the crimper from racetronix to crimp the new pins onto the fuel pump harness. The new pins clip into place.

From the outside of the tank, I removed the two outside pins from the other bulk-head mating connector using the removal tool. These pins have to be pushed out through the front of the connector to remove them, then clip the pin off and pull the wire out. I slid red and black 16 AWG wire through the connector (and waterproof sealer), crimped the 150.2 18-16 AWG pins on, and snapped the new wires into the connector. The positive runs to the relay, the negative runs to ground.

As for the two wires just removed from the bulkhead mating connector outside the fuel tank, I built a connector for them using the 150 metripack parts listed above so I wouldn't have to cut anymore of the harness. I created another harness with the extra wire I bought and ran both wires to the relay.

The relay kit from racetronix comes with crimp connectors as well. When connecting to the relay, run the wire through the relay socket first, then crimp the pin on. The pin snaps in from the side of the socket the relay connects to. This step has 3 of the 4 relay wires connected. The final one goes to the fuse kit bought from racetronix.

I built the fuse harness connecting one side to the relay socket and the other to the battery.

The wiring is completed now.

I mounted the relay and the fuel holder on the metal bracket that holds the fuse box. There are two bolts holding the power distribution block (what the starter cable connects to). I removed those two bolts, and when I remounted the distribution block, I mounted the relay on the bottom hole and the fuse holder on the top hole. The rest of the wires I was able to tuck into the wiring sleeves, or bought new sleeves to tuck them into.

If I get a chance, I will take a picture of the mounting locations. I just wanted to share these parts with you as I spent several hours trying to find the connector types and pins for all of the connectors. Post any questions you may have, and I'll answer them as I log on here.