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  1. #1

    towing fz on the water

    Anything i need to do befire towing my fzr behind a boat??
    Ive done 3 times before without issue, but have been told i should of clamped off a cooling line(which one??)
    Ski has no thermostat and rd cooling kit.


  2. #2
    VinceC's Avatar
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    Heck yea you gotta clamp it off. There are threads with pictures if you do a search and you can buy a inexpensive tool. The other alternative is leave the engine running at idle while towing if you aren't broken down. This is a crazy question because with all of the mods you have listed you clearly know about skis.

  3. #3
    Xrunner's Avatar
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    I dont get it. Says you have done it 3 times with no issues. I have done it once with out issues. And i know of others that have done it with no issues.

    There must be a thresh-hold before it becomes an issue

  4. #4
    VinceC's Avatar
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    Supposedly if you tow at under 5mph then there isn't enough back pressure to push water up through the exhaust or open cooling system and into the engine. Higher than that it can potentially flood the engine with water voiding warranty and destroying the engine.

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=113492

    One of the more mechanic types can explain better. All I know is ...you gotta clamp off a specific hose and I have that hose marked and explain to anybody I let ride my ski...Under no circumstance tow the ski on a pre ride explanation.

  5. #5
    fx160's Avatar
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    it's prety simple really
    the pump as well as prividing thrust feeds water into the engine for cooling
    part of that cooling water is diverted into the exhaust to cool the exhaust
    with the engine running the exhaust pressure forces the water out with the exhaust gass
    without the engine running and being towed
    the pump is under pressure from the water flow
    the faster you go the more pressure
    this pressure will supply the motor and exhaust with water
    if you are unlucky there will be enough water that it overflows the exhaust into the motor

  6. #6
    Kelly_A's Avatar
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    Already been through this once toady so I still have the links handy.

    You'll need to clamp the hose between the pump and the four-way splitter. You'll have to remove the corrugated plastic sheath that covers the hose before clamping. On my 2009 (prior to modding & ditching the 4-way for a 3-way) the line I'm describing tied into the splitter just below where the red flush hose attached. Check the diagram below. The hose(part #1) should be clamped behind where it mates to part #4 (assuming no changes for model year, but you get the idea..) http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....=13&A=170&B=15

    Needle nose vice grips will work ok for clamping. However, you might consider buying a pair of these: http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-23000.aspx and keeping them on your ski (they store neatly beside the fire extinguisher, secured with the rubber strap). They work as well or better than vicegrips, are impervious to salt water/rust and weigh just a few ounces. If you search around online, you can probably find them for under $10.

  7. #7
    Here is another good option for a clamp for the hose: http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-65116.html You only need one, but you can get the whole set for $10.

  8. #8

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    couldn't ya install a shut off valve? a brass one.

  9. #9
    VinceC's Avatar
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    Some guys do it with PVC valves. Just make sure there is no reduction in water flow. No reason you could use brass I suppose.

  10. #10
    Kelly_A's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VinceC View Post
    Some guys do it with PVC valves. Just make sure there is no reduction in water flow. No reason you could use brass I suppose.
    A metal valve will have a thinner inlet and outlet wall thickness than PVC. Plus there's the durability of metal over plastic. There's not much stretch in the OEM tubing, but I think the metric size is a little larger than the standard 5/8" line readily available to most of us in the US. If you could find the right valve, theoretically you should be able to keep flow reduction to a minimum.
    Going with a more flexible line might help help also, or sourcing a metric line a little larger than 5/8". It would only require replacing a few feet of tubing and might actually be easier to install the cutoff out-of-hull, rather trying to shoehorn a cutoff into the stock line. I remember how difficult it was replacing the 4-way with a 3-way splitter, working in the confines of the hull.

    I've never had to tow and my home water pressure has always been high enough when flushing without clamping the pump line. I carry the Lisle clamp for emergencies and just can't justify a cutoff valve.

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