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  1. #1

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    1999 sltx 1050 limp mode

    Hello friends I have a 1999 sltx 1050.. I just purchased this pwc from a friend of mine who has owned it for a couple of years now. I bought it knowing it had some issues. He explained to me that it would not go over 30 mph and won't rev over 4300 rpm. He said he had a neighbor friend check it out and suggested that he replace the fuel lines. He did this with no change in performance. His friend then tells him to purchase a cdi box. So he did. Installs cdi withno change in performance still. He is then told by said friend to replace the stator. So he does with no change in performance. I am beginning to think that this guy doesn't really know the problem.

    So I buy this pwc knowing what he has already done to it. I get it home and first thing I do is drain all fuel, replace spark plugs, install new battery, tear off carbs and rebuild, test compression @ 110 lbs across all cylinders, check for spark, check for fuel, and finally install a flush kit.

    I then go to start it up and it fires right up. Then I notice that the alarm light is flashing and the mfd displays "hot"...

    Soon after that is when I find this wonderful site.. searching through all of the post from others with similar issues I start trying different things like disconnecting the temp sensor, disconnecting the grey wire ( I think the grey was the rev limiter, disconnecting the mfd, and probably anything else that someone might have suggested. Still nothing.

    What am I overlooking? How can I Bypass the Temp sensor?

    Also this has an oil block of kit that was added by my friend . Could it be the issue?

    Thanks
    Last edited by K447; 08-14-2012 at 04:11 PM.


  2. #2

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    Wow! I was told this was the place to go to get some help.. maybe not. Am I posting this in the wrong place or what?

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    This is the place. Limited amount of time and many other active threads mean that sometimes you won't see a reply right away.

    Are you still seeing a HOT warning on the MFD display after disconnecting the exhaust temp sensor?

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  5. #4

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    When I disconnect the sensor the message goes away. Unfortunately I still seem to be in limp mode with 4300 Rpm. I'm wo.seeing if the new cdi box is wired in correctly. All of the wires inside the cdi box have connectors except three brown wires which are twisted together and 3 grey wires that are all twisted together. Wondering if this is where the problem might be.

    Also.. the oil tank has been eliminated, is there wires that need to be looped for any reason.

    Thanks for the help..

  6. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Wires twisted together? That is not stock, for sure.

    All electrical connections need to be clean and tight, and of course connected to the proper things.

    Brown and Gray wires are both important colors in the Polaris system. What happened to the terminal board in the electrical box that the wires are not connected there?

    I suggest you figure out where each of these twisted wires goes to and make sure it is not connected to the wrong circuit.

    The terminal board should have markings for every wire color. Make sure everything is connected where it should be, and there should be zero corrosion and moisture inside the electrical box.

    Out of the water will the engine rev freely up to red line? Or is it still limited to some lower RPM?

  7. #6

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    The twisted wires are inside the box with the coil ass'y, cdi, and the circuit protecter. There are two grey wires coming out of the cdi that are connected to one grey wire from the stator. There is one brown wire coming out of the cdi that is connected to one brown wire from stator and one brown/tan wire from the electrical board..

    Which was the problem.. out of the three grey wires and three brown wires, one grey and one brown were supposed to be hooked together.. switched em around and wammo.. got 7200 rpm

    Thanks for all the info..

  8. #7
    casey67's Avatar
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    Sounds like you might have it correct, but need to clarify.

    The wires from the stator should only connect to the CDI (except,blk, yel and red/pur) these stator/CDI wires will have "bullet" type connecters.

    On the old style CDI,the limiter wire was TAN. The newer CDI uses a grey wire. These wires will have " blade" type connecters. I think your terminal board will have a place for the tan wires. There might be a resister on the board, the grey blade connecter will attach with the tan wire on the board.

  9. #8

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    Yeah the guy I bought these things from had an inexperienced mechanic working on them obviously. I am new to the pwc world but feel like I already got it figured out thanks to this forum. I have tad posts for days now just getting familiar with issues, trouble shooting, performance and much more. I will tell everyone I know about www.Greenhulk.com

    Thangs again for the great information casey67.

  10. #9

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    Put the sltx in the water today and it ran like a champ. Only issue is if you try to ease into the throttle slowly it wants to bog down and die. If you ride it kind of like a two stroke dirt bike constantly punching the throttle it will accelerate fine.. any ideas?

  11. #10
    casey67's Avatar
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    At the top of each carb,there should be a small brass nozzle. When you squeeze the throttle,it should squirt fuel. That is the accelerater pump.

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