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  1. #1

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    new to the scene and new ski; 1996 SL780

    hey guys have been lurking for a while and finally bit the bullet and bought a cheap ski to try to fix it up. its a 96 sl780 and i got it for $100..so i figure if i cant figure it out ill just sell it or junk it and im not out alot!. previous owner says it will run but its "clanking" back at the pump.. just from my reading the only thing i could think is that the impeller could be jammed or something is really fubar back in the pump area.

    I think my first course of action is to make sure the engine will run, I watched a few videos on here on how to remove the pump. My idea was to try to get it running tomorrow and if i cant can i remove the pump and drive shaft to try to isolate if its getting jammed back at the pump or does that shaft need to be in the engine for it too run? also i tried searching for the service manual and found the site everyone recommended but it did not seem to be online anymore?

    Thanks I am pretty use to other online forums so i know most info is out there just by searching! and look forward to getting this thing running hopefully!
    Last edited by K447; 09-22-2012 at 09:31 PM. Reason: Added model to thread title


  2. #2
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    Pull the jet pump off and check the bearings and seals in it. Its also a good time to inspect the drive shaft and seal carrier. You can run the engine without the jet pump, however there will be no source of cooling water, so you will have to keep your runs short, or use a garden hose to cool the engine. A little bit of clanking noise is normal on Polaris jet pumps when they are run out of the water. Jet pump rebuild kits can be had for around 50 bucks. We will help you get it running.

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  4. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    If you remove the jet pump also remove the drive shaft before running the engine. Never have the drive shaft in place without the jet pump when running the engine.

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  6. #4

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    Aug 2012
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    ok great thanks for the info... gonna spray some marvel or fog oil down in the spark plug holes and hope for the best tomorrow..if it seems jammed ill remove the pump and shaft. is there an updated site for the factory service manuals? the one site doesnt seem to work anymore mattmans.com? i found and downloaded the troubleshooting one which is great also

  7. #5
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cascivic View Post
    ok great thanks for the info... gonna spray some marvel or fog oil down in the spark plug holes and hope for the best tomorrow..if it seems jammed ill remove the pump and shaft. is there an updated site for the factory service manuals? the one site doesnt seem to work anymore mattmans.com? i found and downloaded the troubleshooting one which is great also
    Welcome to the Hulk! Suggest you remove the PTO coupler and spark plugs and try to turn the motor over by hand to assess if the jet pump is jammed up. Visual inspection of the pump from the underside an back of the ski with a flashlight should tell you if there is a foreign object lodged in there. It's not too much work to remove the pump and spin the bearing to see how they feel before going crazy.

    Be sure to go through your fuel system as well to ensure it is in peak operating condition.

  8. #6

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    new to the scene and new ski

    Thanks yeah planning on first seeing of it will spin then making sure fuel/oil are good Did these skis come with a factory flush kit or do I have to follow that YouTube video to add one? Also does anyone know the width of the ski offhand I'm trying to get the parking spot ready for it before I pick it up

    also i think the battery is shot that im getting for it.. would there be an issue with using a car battery and jumper cables just to try to crank it over until i get that sorted?

  9. #7
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    96 SL780 is 105.5" long and 45" wide.

    Depends on the options the ski cam with when talking about a flush kit. Most are installed on the water rail opposite the temp sensor. Some members prefer to simply disconnect the inlet feed from the jet pump and connect water there. To be perfectly honest, other than starting the motor and hearing it run, I never use my flush kit. If you are running in salt water, different story.....

    Highly recommended NOT to jump your ski from any other source. You can quickly fry the internal electronics. If the battery is even questionable, get yourself a new AGM battery. If the battery is lead acid type, get yourself a new AGM battery. It is worth the extra expense IMO.

  10. #8

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    Aug 2012
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    thanks bluefish, would it be bad if i just rant leads from a car battery though for now to the leads in the ski that way i can see whats up with the ski without shelling out for a battery plus it will give me more cranking opportunity before it needs to be charged?

  11. #9
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    The electronics are sensitive to the rapid on/off of moving jumper leads around and the sparking/voltage inconsistencies that result. If you were to bolt the leads up to a battery, it should minimize the possibility of these conditions.......

    Keep in mind that if you have good compression, good fuel, and strong spark, and a relatively clean motor, it really shouldn't take a whole lot of cranking for it to fire......

  12. #10

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    Aug 2012
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    new to the scene and new ski

    Alright got the ski home doing some rub rail and handle scouring and the battery is charged! I sprayed some fogging oil down in the cylinders and I was thinking when I go to spin it should I spin it with the plugs out for the first time? And if I do this should I just leave them unhooked or is there a special way to do it ? I didn't see any of those grounding points but maybe I didn't look good enough

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