08-14-2012, 06:49 PM #1
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
- Crete IL
1100 zxi with primer added, thoughts?
So I have been out of the PWC game for about a decade. My last ride was a 1998 1100 ZXI. I want to get back in and am looking at a 2001 1100 zxi that is up for sale. The unit is in great shape, but my concern is that is has a primer kit installed on it. Basically this is a bulb that was installed into the "glove box" in front of the seat that then has a tube with nozzles added onto the flame arrestor cover (see attached pics)
Now like I said I have been out of the game for a while and I do remember the 1100 being a little stubborn to start when it sat for a while. That being said I am concerned with this mod because it dumps raw gas into the carbs. Since this is an oil injected 2 stroke my concern is damage it could cause to the motor by "dry" starting. Is this a common mod now? Anyone have any concerns on this? I am looking for a unit that is as close to showroom as I can find and this one is in pretty great shape so very interested, just concerned about getting into a unit I will have to rebuild soon.
Let me know your opinions!
08-14-2012, 06:57 PM #2
there is nothing wrong with using straight gas just to start it, there is plent of oil left inside the engine to keep it lubed until the oil flows. I had primers on all my Kawi 1100 with never a problem
08-14-2012, 09:16 PM #3
Agreed. If the engine isn't producing significant power (idling or on the trailer), you need very little oil. Squirting a couple cc's of raw gas in won't hurt a thing. It will sure make life easier for your starter and battery.
At least whoever installed the primer did it right in that he did not remove the chokes. This is a very definite no-no with the CV carbs. Removing the chokes will make it run uncontrollably lean.
I've installed primers on several CV carbureted engines and I've drilled holes for primer ports in the intake manifold, and later, in the balance tube elbows. This allows you to remove the flame arrestor and carb rack without messing with the primers.
A couple of things I would urge you to do is carefully examine the oil lines (better to replace them). They get brittle with age and will split. Also, there is a cooling hose that goes to the stator cooler, on the front cover under the oil pump. Remove one end and try blowing through it. I've found a couple that were plugged.
08-14-2012, 11:19 PM #4
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
- Crete IL
well I guess that's the thing. I sold the '98 1100 zxi I had back in 2001. Now these units are MUCH older so I am not sure what things I should be looking for as problem areas specific to the 1100 triple and zxi units now that they are a decade old plus. What is the reliabilty of the oil pumps been on average? hoses do see like a no brainer, any other must check items? isn't compression supposed to be about 125 on all 3 (+/- 5 psi)
08-15-2012, 06:58 AM #5
The oil pumps are the most reliable part of the boat.
I would be more concerned that the compression readings are pretty close to each other than the actual value. Too many variables, (gauge, elevation, battery condition, etc.) to give an exact number. 120 is nice, but not required.
Plan to do a top overhaul every 200 hours or so.
08-15-2012, 08:24 AM #6
I had ocean pro flame arrestors and the chokes removed on my cv carbs (stock jetting and screw adjustment). It's the best running ski out of all of them
08-15-2012, 09:04 AM #7
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Elephant Butte New Mexico
skis with cv carbs that have had the choke plates removed run like crap around here ( altitude 4200 feet) ..so bad that I've stopped trying to fix them and advise people that they either find an old rack of crabs or sell the ski to somebody living at sea level. People are shocked when the discover that box of choke plates they tossed out cannot be purchased for repairs.
CV carbs are pretty unforgiving on anything that disrupts the designed airflow.
Nothing sinister happens to these skis with age..while some are firm believers in primers, I am not. I've seen a number of burnt to the ground skis when primer lines have failed and the owners dutifully keep pumping them and cranking the engine while raw fuel is squirting everywhere.
Letting the fuel-filter sag to the bottom of the hull seems to be the culprit in these hard starting kaws since the glue used to attach the various line guides and sensors to the inner hullseem to fail after about ten years. I use permatex "right stuff" to reattach them. people are simply floored how easily their skis start with a little tlc.
08-15-2012, 01:30 PM #8
I secured my fuel filter mount with two stainless sheetmetal screws + 3M 5200 adhesive. A lot of people don't realize that there's a reason for it being up high--to prevent siphoning of fuel in the event of a leak.
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