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  1. #1

    Virage TXi - oil injection block off?

    Now that both my ski's are running great, I wonder what next will fail??

    Both my 2002 virage txi 1200 have the factory oil injection pumps and I'm thinking cheap insurance would be to block off the pumps and just mix the gas/oil.

    What do you guys think?


  2. #2
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    get ready for the debate.(while you are waiting for this thread to fill, seek out the dozens of other opinions on this volatile subject)

    _Personally_ premixing puts you one brain fart away from losin your engine..specially if you make the mistake of lending your ski out. The only advice I can give here is if you do opt to go premix, put a clear label at the fuel inlet indicating the premix ratio you have selected. and paint the gas cap red.

    I get a couple of skis a year where some bumpkin wanting to help his buddy on the beach dumps a can of straight gas in the tank while nobody is looking.

    On the other hand one of my favorite stories is a guy from the airbase ( a German exchange pilot) was riding his buddies 1200 yam and when the oil light went on went straight to the marina and dutifully dumped two quarts of 10/30 oil into the tank.

    Oil pumps are pretty reliable -oil lines are not so that's my .02cc of input.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow Oil injection system is mandatory on all Polaris Ficht fuel injected 2-stroke engines

    Quote Originally Posted by wipeout View Post
    Now that both my ski's are running great, I wonder what next will fail??

    Both my 2002 Virage TXi 1200 have the factory oil injection pumps and I'm thinking cheap insurance would be to block off the pumps and just mix the gas/oil. What do you guys think?
    You CAN NOT remove the oil injection system from any fuel injected Polaris 2-stroke engine!

    The Ficht fuel injection system is completely different from a carburetor engine and that includes the oil system. The only way for the engine to get oil into the crank case is throuh the oil injection system. The fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber and never goes anywhere near the crank case bearings.

    Oil in the fuel tank will NOT lubricate any part of the Fuel Injected engine. In addition the oil in the fuel will mess with the carefully controlled fuel:air ratio in the Ficht combustion process.

    There is no option; you MUST maintain the oil injection system in factory configuration.

    The primary issue from a reliability perspective is to MAINTAIN the oil system. That means replacing the oil hoses when they get old, replace the oil filter on schedule.

    AND most importantly actually INSPECT the oil system regularly. Check for hoses that may be coming loose or leaking at the nipples. Check for hoses rubbing or fraying against an engine part. Make sure the oil sender cap is staying in place (use a thin hose clamp if necessary to keep the sender lid tight).

    Check the oil cable for fraying just inside the sleeve ends. Check the throttle cable for the same while you are in there.

    Use a flashlight and mirror to confirm the oil cable adjustment is correct. There are alignment marks on the pump and arm hub. I adjust my own so the arm mark is slightly to the 'more oil' side.

    And keep the oil tank filled with a decent quality oil.

    The primary method for maintaining reliability is through inspection and maintenance. That apples to the entire machine. Anything that is or can rub on something else, or gets loose over time, needs to be noticed and corrected. Wire harness, hoses, steering cables, etc all need eyeballs.

    I recently did an engine rebuild on a fuel injected machine (MSX 140). While the engine was out I discovered two different hoses that were badly worn in hidden spots. One was a main cooling water hose rubbing on an engine mount, while another smaller waterhose was rubbing on part of the magneto stator housing.

    The Reverse cable was rubbing lightly on the spinning drive shaft coupler and had abraded through the convoluted outer sleaving. Yes, the coupler cover was in place.

    These had gone unnoticed despite frequent under-the-seat inspections during the season and during pre-season check ups. Obviously I was not checking thoroughly enough!

  4. #4
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    +1(specially on the quality oil)

    my bad for not recognizing it was an injected model

    (I was the one with the brain fart this am)

  5. #5
    Once again thanks for your input. When you check for proper adjustment are you at full throttle?

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wipeout View Post
    Once again thanks for your input. When you check for proper adjustment are you at full throttle?
    Oil pump adjustment?

    That is done with throttle cable slack properly adjusted and throttle at idle position.

  7. #7
    Thank you again k447

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