Thread: STX 1100 Di BLOW ENGINE????!
08-18-2012, 06:29 PM #1
STX 1100 Di BLOW ENGINE????!
I have an 2000 stx as you may know, it had a water leak (OTHER THREAD) which I fixed today. But when I took it out it ran like a champ all day then all of a sudden I heard a metallic clanging sort of and lost all power to a stall in about 5-7 seconds. Then when I went to crank it, it seems seized. I check pump, all clear. I took the plugs (OLD PLUGS) out and the front two are tan and burnt smelling (UH OH!) and the back one is pitch black and burnt smelling. Even with them out it will crank about 1/4 rev, then clank..., bad thing the ski only has 180 hours!
Now here is the puzzling part...there was no warnings beeps, symbols whatsoever, yet inside the engine seemed overly hot...wouldn't sensors put it in limp mode?
I'm almost certain a top end will need to be done, but how much $$$ does that cost???
08-18-2012, 08:01 PM #2
Guess you cant do a compression test it it wont spin. Pull the pump, slide the driveshaft back from the coupler and try to turn it by hand. Pull motor, tear down and look for carnage. Post pics.
Are you guna tell us where the leak was coming from?
08-18-2012, 08:08 PM #3
If water in the motor from the leak it could have wiped out the intake side of the pto piston.
08-18-2012, 10:04 PM #4
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Elephant Butte New Mexico
08-18-2012, 11:42 PM #5
Sorry to hear what happened. Let us know what you find when you tear it down. When taking it apart, look at the oil lines to see if one of them came off, broke into, or cracked and leaked. If one of them came off, the side of the piston will usually be melted down on the exhaust side.
06-28-2013, 02:09 PM #6
Ok guys I'm back. Now first, please don't flame, shoot, or kill me for reviving a 1 year old discussion.
Believe it or not, I have decided just recently to dive head first into the rebuild. I am looking to spend no more than about $600
I have torn open the head and here is what I found.
Attached are pictures of all 3 cylinders, and all 3 domes on the head. The last cylinder (Closest to PTO) sustained the damage from what I can tell. The debris in the other two cylinders is from the gasket coming off, there is only metal shavings in the last cylinder.
As mentioned before, I can turn the shaft about a 1/4 turn. In that small turn both pistons #1 and #2 slide up and down smoothly, piston #3 stays still, so the rod must be snapped.
Without anymore comment: ENJOY THE CARNAGE IN THE PICTURES
06-28-2013, 03:06 PM #7
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Elephant Butte New Mexico
wa not a joke last year..isn't this year either.
a broken con rod means a new crank, and that alone is going to put you close to your number.
the cheapest rebuilt di engine avilable runs over $1500..a crank alone is $400..then you need a head, pistons blah blah blah..then before you put it all back together, you have to be sure you found the reason it blew apart in the first place.
I'd increase the budget to at least a grand..and hope you can find used crank in good shape
the only way you'll get it done for $600 is by way of a generous member who happens to have one "laying around"
I'd say you'd be better of parting it..the console and emm/injectors alone are going to get you a pretty good buck..then the jet pump, seats and so on..good money
06-28-2013, 06:17 PM #8
I remember you. Like Captain Pete said, it's important to figure out what made it blow in the first place.
From reading your other thread I have a feeling it ingested some water and hydro-locked just enough to put a slight bend in the rod...and then that slight bend finally caused it to snap.
The motor looks really bad and if you snapped a rod, it's going to look even worse when you open up the lower end. No way you're going to get that fixed for 600 unless you run across the deal of the century on parts.
Get the motor out and take it apart and see just how much damage is there.
I've seen a bunch of good deals on 1100 DI motor parts, just have to look around to see what's available. Might even find a motor to put your injectors and other components on and be back running. I have seen them out there but sometimes it's a wait and watch situation until you see what you need at a fair price and then have the funds to jump on it...before the other guy with the blown DI does.
On a side note...My wifes 2000 STX DI is still purring like a tiger. We always call it the perfect ski because it always runs beautifully and handles so good. Detailed Maintenance is the key.
06-28-2013, 07:53 PM #9
Appreciate the help guys!
Ok got the top end, upper part off. The last piston and con rod is very wobbly to the crankshaft, bunch of metal pieces. Absolute nightmare! I am going to see tommorow if the crank case is busted or not. I will post pics and more info tomorrow . Thanks for the help guys.
06-29-2013, 06:05 PM #10
Got everything out, all on the work bench all taken apart.
The top end looks decent, pretty easy boring honing and redoing.
It is busted on the bottom (Beneath the blown piston #3)
The upper half is decent, no cracks
The crank shaft is smooth, non rusted up until you guessed it, rod #3. That rod is bent, the bearings are non existent and it is black and dry and twisted, whereas the rest are nice and oily.
I think I found the problem as well that caused the whole thing. There is some cable coming from above, to the oil pump. I'm guessing the more throttle the more it should open up (Am I wrong here?). Well that cable is snapped and worn off, there for it is in the "off" or low position, meaning no oil to the engine. . There is also water in the crankcase.
Lastly I found (And fixed) the water leak! It was simply a hole corroded right through my exhaust pipe about two inches from the water line brass nipple. Just a hole rusted right through!
I found out the previous owner ran it in the ocean without running it on the hose afterwards
Bravo to the previous owner for the PERFECTLY DONE MAINTENANCE!
I increased my budget, no problems there. I am just going to go ahead with the rebuild. New case, new crank shaft, new top end, new head. I calculated it cheaper than buying a rebuild because of shipping, and I don't want to exchange core's etc...That would take away any parting value if I did! Tell me if this is the wrong way to go about it.
FINALLY: Pics of the carnage are coming, please keep that awesome advice coming.
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