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  1. #1

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    12v Low? Can't figure out what's causing it.

    I have a 1998 GTX RFI. I have a 12v low light that comes up on the dash immediately after charging it (immediately as in, charging it at the cabin, and then driving down to the lake to launch it and starting it once). I checked the battery with multimeter with RPMs at 5500, meter read 18.0 VDC. According to the manual I have, this means the rectifier is bad. Also tested the stator and got -1 ohms on all of the yellow wires. Tested the yellow wires in the same sequence for AC voltage and got 26.6 on all. Then tested the wires for resistance to ground and got nothing.

    These numbers seem way off (but I don't know much about seadoo's so I dont really know). Is it possible that I need a new rectifier and a new stator?

    I know my seadoo is known for needing a new rectifier, but I don't want to just throw money around at parts that I might not even need to replace.

    Does anyone on this forum know anything about the stator testing? and if these numbers indicate that it's toast? Or do you think it's just the rectifier?

    Thanks in advance for anyone that offers some help! I would really like to get some use out of this before it's too cold out. I could use it as is, but getting stranded in the middle of the lake isn't my idea of fun lol


  2. #2
    diamondwatercraft's Avatar
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    My bet is the rectifier. Also, when you charge the battery make sure to disconnect one of the battery cables. You can short the system and cost yourself a bunch of money. I also want to warn you that when you are getting a charge of 18 volts that is bad news for the mpem. Get that rectifier off of there as soon as possible.

  3. #3
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by diamondwatercraft View Post
    My bet is the rectifier. Also, when you charge the battery make sure to disconnect one of the battery cables. You can short the system and cost yourself a bunch of money. I also want to warn you that when you are getting a charge of 18 volts that is bad news for the mpem. Get that rectifier off of there as soon as possible.
    "soon as possible" ain't soon enough for a system that is seeing 18v unless you are using an old harbor frieght voltmeter. Can we assume you see 12-13v sitting with the engine off?

    these rfi skis eat regualtors. with a small mod you can use heavier duty 4-tec regulator ... couple of bucks more, but well worth considering.

    at idle speeds the alternator is barley putting out enough power to support the system

    an excellent quality battery is a must ( agm suggested since getting at the battery is a bit painful))

    12v low is often a red herring caused by a momentary drop in battery volage during cranking. Onlyy worry about it if it says on, or pops up during riding.

  4. #4

    12v Low? Can't figure out what's causing it.

    It's normal for that year. It's annoying beyond belief but it does not affect the operation of the craft in any way so why throw money at it?

  5. #5

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    bad voltage regulator.

  6. #6
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OCD Solutions View Post
    It's normal for that year. It's annoying beyond belief but it does not affect the operation of the craft in any way so why throw money at it?
    because an 18v output will fry the expensive stuff...the 1v output is mentioned in in the body of the post

  7. #7

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    With the engine off, it was reading just slightly over 10v without being charged. So, i'll for sure replace the rectifier but does anyone know if the numbers I gave for the stator sound ok? Or maybe I tested it wrong.



    -- The light does stay on while riding, had it in the water but brang it back because I didn't want the battery to completely die and leave me stuck out on the lake.

  8. #8
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    replace the battery first..10v standing is a bit too low.

  9. #9

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    The person I bought it off of said the battery was new as of this spring, but who knows (I've already had to fix some things that were also supposedly "new").
    The battery does look like it'd be fun to get out lol So it's possible its just the battery and not the rectifier at all?

  10. #10
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    the first step to a proper diagnosis on a rfi electric issue is a good condition battery. The battery provides some reference voltage for the regulator so if the batter is faulty, you could have hard to track down issues. The odds are small on it just being the battery alone, but a new regulator and a bad battery will spell additional costs as the new regulator is stressed.

    DO not under any circumstance disconnect the battery to "test" the alternator that's an amateur move that is almost assured to destroy some expensive electrical parts.

    Compared to the cost of the regulator/battery, getting stuck out on the water is far more expensive.

    Most folks neglect the 12 hour charge a new lead acid battery requires..this really cuts into the service life.

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