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  1. #1

    Thinking ahead....how should I get my ski ready for winter?

    Have LOVED our 96 SLTX this summer. Has run great. I want to keep it that way. What should I do to store it over the winter? We are in North East Texas, so while it can get cold, does not stay that way. Ski is stored outside with a cover. Thanks for any and all advice.


  2. #2

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    Thinking ahead....how should I get my ski ready for winter?

    Check the Polaris knowledge

    http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl.com/

    Lots of good info

  3. #3
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    1) Add appropriate amount of fuel stabilizer for your 12 gallon tank and top off the fuel
    2) Take ski for a short ride to get up to full operating temperature and pull stabilized fuel into all lines
    3) Place ski on trailer and while in the water remove the Flame Arrestor air intake cover.
    4) With engine running, spray fogging oil into cylinders until thick white smoke appears
    5) Pull ski out of the water, start engine, and blip throttle a couple times to clear water out of exhaust system.
    6) For extra measure you can pull spark plugs and spray fogging oil in cylinders if you want.
    7) Top off the oil tank.
    8 ) Remove battery and periodically place it on a low amperage trickle charge over the winter.
    9) Wash and clean the ski however you choose.

    KJ

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnsonmtz View Post
    1) Add appropriate amount of fuel stabilizer for your 12 gallon tank and top off the fuel
    2) Take ski for a short ride to get up to full operating temperature and pull stabilized fuel into all lines
    3) Place ski on trailer and while in the water remove the F/A cover.
    4) With engine running, spray fogging oil into cylinders until thick white smoke appears
    5) Pull ski out of the water, start engine, and blip throttle a couple times to clear water out of exhaust system.
    6) For extra measure you can pull spark plugs and spray fogging oil in cylinders if you want.
    7) Top off the oil tank.
    8 ) Remove battery and periodically place it on a low amperage trickle charge over the winter.
    9) Wash and clean the ski however you choose.

    KJ
    I would add;

    Try to have the fuel tank full of non-ethanol gasoline. Ethanol is not a good thing, especially during storage.

    Some guys completely drain the fuel tank for storage. If you can do that, go ahead. Since it is hard to get all the fuel out, it is easier to just fill it with high grade non-ethanol fuel with fuel stabilizer (Sta-Bil) added. Do not store it with the fuel tank 'half full' as that leaves room for water condensation.

    I fog the engine OUT of the water, on the trailer. Engine has already been revved in short bursts to clear out the waterbox and is moderately warm. I let it cool for a few minutes, then restart and at idle I spray fogging oil into each carb intake in rotation until all have received a good dose.

    Shut the engine down, remove spark plugs. Spray some fogging oil into each spark plug hole. Crank the engine in very short bumps to spread the oil around. Reinstall spark plugs finger tight. Do not attach plug wires. Install the Flame Arrestor cover and tighten bolts (keeps creatures and bugs out of the engine).

    Disconnect battery negative post. If you remove the battery you can store it somewhere with reasonable temperature stability.

    I connect the battery to a battery maintainer (aka Battery Tender) and leave it like that all winter. This is particularly helpful for regular lead-acid batteries which do not like being stored without some sort of charger to compensate for internal self-discharge of the battery.

    AGM batteries (which are the preferred battery type) are less susceptible to self-discharge and should be able to sit all winter. That said, an AGM compatible maintainer will help maximize the battery lifespan.

    I tip the nose of the trailer up as high as I can get it to drain water out of the hull through the drain plugs and help drain the water cooling system. This is required with the fuel injected model cooling system.

    If you can leave the seat off so the hull interior can full dry out that is good. If stored inside leave the seat in place but propped open an inch so that air can circulate.

    If there is a risk of creatures crawling into the exhaust to make a nest then some guys stuff a loose wad of stainless steel or brass wool into the exhaust exit. Just make sure you remove it next spring!

    Hang a card on the handlebar to remind yourself of any must-do items before you next start the engine Put it inside a zip-lock Baggie if there may be weather exposure.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by cascivic View Post
    Check the Polaris knowledge

    http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl.com/

    Lots of good info
    Thanks, will take a read on it.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by johnsonmtz View Post
    1) Add appropriate amount of fuel stabilizer for your 12 gallon tank and top off the fuel
    2) Take ski for a short ride to get up to full operating temperature and pull stabilized fuel into all lines
    3) Place ski on trailer and while in the water remove the F/A cover.
    4) With engine running, spray fogging oil into cylinders until thick white smoke appears
    5) Pull ski out of the water, start engine, and blip throttle a couple times to clear water out of exhaust system.
    6) For extra measure you can pull spark plugs and spray fogging oil in cylinders if you want.
    7) Top off the oil tank.
    8 ) Remove battery and periodically place it on a low amperage trickle charge over the winter.
    9) Wash and clean the ski however you choose.

    KJ
    Hate to be stupid what is the F/A cover....
    Thanks for the list. Appreciate it.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    I would add;

    Try to have the fuel tank full of non-ethanol gasoline. Ethanol is not a good thing, especially during storage.

    Some guys completely drain the fuel tank for storage. If you can do that, go ahead. Since it is hard to get all the fuel out, it is easier to just fill it with high grade non-ethanol fuel with fuel stabilizer (Sta-Bil) added. Do not store it with the fuel tank 'half full' as that leaves room for water condensation.

    I fog the engine OUT of the water, on the trailer. Engine has already been revved in short bursts to clear out the waterbox and is moderately warm. I let it cool for a few minutes, then restart and at idle I spray fogging oil into each carb intake in rotation until all have received a good dose.

    Shut the engine down, remove spark plugs. Spray some fogging oil into each spark plug hole. Crank the engine in very short bumps to spread the oil around. Reinstall spark plugs finger tight. Do not attach plug wires.

    Disconnect battery negative post. If you remove the battery you can store it somewhere with reasonable temperature stability.

    I connect the battery to a battery maintainer (aka Battery Tender) and leave it like that all winter. This is particularly helpful for regular lead-acid batteries which do not like being stored without some sort of charger to compensate for internal self-discharge of the battery.

    AGM batteries (which are the preferred battery type) are less susceptible to self-discharge and should be able to sit all winter. That said, an AGM compatible maintainer will help maximize the battery lifespan.

    I tip the nose of the trailer up as high as I can get it to drain water out of the hull through the drain plugs and help drain the water cooling system. This is required with the fuel injected model cooling system.

    If you can leave the seat off so the hull interior can full dry out that is good. If stored inside leave the seat in place but propped open an inch so that air can circulate.
    Thanks for all the help. So glad I posted this.
    Thanks

  8. #8
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    I might add......if winter is coming, ride the hell out of it as much as you can. . I generally do what Keith does. To get all of the water out of the hull, I use a shop vac.

  9. #9
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgirvine View Post
    Hate to be stupid what is the F/A cover....
    Thanks for the list. Appreciate it.
    Flame arrestors. Whatever is installed on top of your carbs to keep backfire flames from starting anything in the hull on fire. Often incorrectly referred to as an air cleaner.

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