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  1. #1
    tealgreen2000's Avatar
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    fzr engine coupler

    how do u remove the coupler on the engine of a fzr


  2. #2
    Kelly_A's Avatar
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    Are you replacing both the engine and intermediate halves of the coupler?

    I had the engine out when I replaced the coupler, but it should be possible to do it with the engine still in the hull. You'll need to disconnect the motor mounts then lift and shift the engine forward a few inches to disconnect the coupler. Remember to mark the locations of the mount shims!

    Then pull the IH, you can remove the coupler from it out of the hull. Or take it to your dealer, it's worth it for the .5 hour service charge if you lack the two specialized yamaha tools: Shaft Holder #90890-06730 & Coupler Wrench #90890-06729 to do it yourself.

    With the IH out, you can drop the engine back on the mounts snug everything down so you have a solid working platform. Then you'll need the Coupler Wrench #90890-06729 and a large hex key in the center to remove the coupler. You won't need to remove the drive gear assembly bolt on the front of the engine.

    Then just reverse the proceedure. Refer to your service manual for directions on aligning the couplers when you put everything back together.

    Other than needing the specialized tools(s) and lifting the engine - it sounds worse than it is. Probably a six hour job start to finish.

    If you lack or can't borrow the tools, you could always take the ski to the dealer once you've pulled the IH and re-secured the engine on the mounts. Let them use their tools to pull and replace the IH and engine couplers. That would save you a lot of the labor cost.

  3. #3
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    Not sure how much the OEM tools run, but Riva sells a tool for the older 2-strokes that will still work on the larger SHO coupler. It's ~$40 & is designed to fit an impact.

  4. #4
    Addicted Member 5001craig's Avatar
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    You have to hold the shaft while turning the coupler. We used a modified Tigershark prop tool to hold the shaft and then used an OEM shaft removal tool I rented from a forum member (thanks again SB!). Note the coupler removal tool on the long breaker bar.

    I'm not sure the motor can be moved enough to do what you are wanting to do (love ya Kelly but...).

    Here's a good pic of what I'm talking about:

    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #5
    Kelly_A's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5001craig View Post
    I'm not sure the motor can be moved enough to do what you are wanting to do
    I'm sticking with my motor-in scenario. I know you can pull the IH w/ the engine unbolted, but in-hull, because I did it in that order. Before I figured out one wheel had to come off the trailer so I could position my somewhat undersized cherry picker correctly to angle the engine out of the compartment, I did everything else I could for a couple of days while trying unsuccessfully to beg or borrow a larger cherry picker.

    With the IH out, and motor back on the mounts, there should be >4" of working space to pull the crank-side coupler. But the midwall clearance may be an issue.
    Could always try it with the motor in, but unbolted - a lot more room to work that way.

  6. #6
    Kristian Keppel Waterholics's Avatar
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    So I need the Crankshaft shaft holder tool to do this job? No way getting around that?

  7. #7
    Go Kawasaki's Avatar
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    Yes. Cut it off.

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  9. #8
    Kristian Keppel Waterholics's Avatar
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    So after I get off the coupler will the crankshaft come out with the transfer shaft?

  10. #9
    Kristian Keppel Waterholics's Avatar
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    Can someone please help me on this. So I need the R&D BIG ASS coupler wrench and the driveline tool to hold the crankshaft steady. Heat it up and put all the strength I have into it and the coupler should come off and the crankshaft should be able to come off after that?

  11. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Waterholics View Post
    Can someone please help me on this. So I need the R&D BIG ASS coupler wrench and the driveline tool to hold the crankshaft steady. Heat it up and put all the strength I have into it and the coupler should come off and the crankshaft should be able to come off after that?
    Yes, when mine finally came off it wasnt actually that tight. The heat is needed to break down the green loctite they use. Once the loctite breaks down its not bad.

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