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  1. #1

    1994 SL 750 - newbie questions

    Hi everyone,

    I just picked up a 1994 SL 750 last week and have a few questions.

    - Throttle response: it seems like there is a "low" and a "go really really fast" setting on the throttle and little in between. If you smoothly accelerate it goes fine and then wham it takes off at a certain point. Originally I thought fuel starvation, but I pulled the choke a bit while doing it to see and it overfuels and bogs. Carb adjustment maybe? The thing hits 45MPH on the crappy speedo, and the hull is pretty scuffed up so I take it's running pretty well.

    - Water in hull. First time I had it out there was a decent amount of water in the hull when I took it out (probably a gallon or two). Figured out that the spedo line was off the barb, so fixed that, now there is about half of that after a 35min ride (so about a gallon). I checked the clamps and such but no dice. Any ideas where that amount of water could come from?

    - Oil Injection. Is there any way to check to see if the oil injection is working properly? I believe it is as the plugs have a bit of oil in the threads when you remove them.

    - I also need a fuel neck, fuel separator and a cap for where the fuel lines come out of the tank if anyone has extras.

    Thanks,
    Kris


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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  3. #3
    Oh.. and can I take the cyl. tops off to check the wash without replacing the gaskets? Or pretty much when you remove them they need to be replaced?

  4. #4
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xkursion View Post
    Oh.. and can I take the cyl. tops off to check the wash without replacing the gaskets? Or pretty much when you remove them they need to be replaced?
    Welcome to the Hulk!
    Make sure your fuel system upgrades are complete to help prevent a melt down.

    It is possible that your carbs need rebuilding and that the lack of response is due to sticking needles and seats. You should consider rebuilding them on this age ski.

    Biggest culprit for water in the ski (if all the hoses are connected) is at the through hull bearing. Need to make sure this is in good condition and is well greased. You can check your ski for leaks by keeping it strapped to the trailer and backing it in the water. Use a flashlight and look around for potential leaks. Start up the engine and again look for leaks. There is a plastic PTO cover attached to the Thru hull. Spin that 180 degrees to see where the driveshaft exits the through hull.

    Check all of your gasket connections for leaks as well. Not uncommon at the exhaust manifold and water rail.

    You can check your oil injection by removing the lines from the intake, carbs, or FA (depending on your setup) and crank over the motor without the lanyard in place. If you see oil coming out of the lines, should be pumping fine. Make sure the lines are not brittle or cracked. It is highly recommended to replace the lines as they are the main cause for oil pump failure on your ski.

    I have a spare fuel water separator if you need one. PM me an offer if interested.

    Check out this link for any and all issues: http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl.com/

  5. #5
    Yea planning on swapping the fuel pump for a three outlet.

    Looks like the ski was rebuilt at some point. Judging by the wesco and cometic stickers. And the fact that two jugs have "2" stamped on them. PTO and CTR. The gas lines have also been replaced to black ones. Not sure if the carbs have been rebuilt though. Is it possible to take them apart and clean without having to replace everything?

    Kris

  6. #6
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xkursion View Post
    Yea planning on swapping the fuel pump for a three outlet.

    Looks like the ski was rebuilt at some point. Judging by the wesco and cometic stickers. And the fact that two jugs have "2" stamped on them. PTO and CTR. The gas lines have also been replaced to black ones. Not sure if the carbs have been rebuilt though. Is it possible to take them apart and clean without having to replace everything?

    Kris
    Anything is possible. The carbs are pretty simple. The main parts in the rebuild kit are the diaphragms, needles, and seats. Can be tough to tell if these parts are in "good" condition. Rebuild will set you back around $150-160 in parts.....

    You can try reusing head gaskets. Get yourself a can of Permatex Copper gasket spray. Clean and coat the gaskets per instructions if you want to try reuse. Watch for leaking head gaskets and fading compression readings......

  7. #7
    Just looked at the serial number. Guess it's actually a 1993. Does that make a difference?

  8. #8
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xkursion View Post
    Just looked at the serial number. Guess it's actually a 1993. Does that make a difference?
    Not really for this set of issues. There are other differences between the model years that are relatively minor....

  9. #9
    I'm addicted to Polaris PWC ghostinstallations's Avatar
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    Some skis, (more the domestic motors) have a certain point in the throttle where they just take off. My SL900 shows this the most. It accels smoothly and then all of a sudden jumps like there is a 600 rpm range missing. My understanding is it has to do with the tuning in the exhaust pipe.

    Once again, this is not something I have experienced with a Fuji motor.
    Last edited by K447; 08-27-2012 at 12:28 PM.

  10. #10
    So I had it out last night again. Backed it in the water on the trailer, but still can't figure out where the water is coming in. The area around the shaft seems dry when off and running. Would it be possible that the seal between the top and bottom of the hull is gone? Are they even two separate pieces?

    Any nobody has a drop tube retainer cap they want to sell? Mine is cracked. Someone said this might be a recall, but I don't know how to even approach that.

    Kris

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