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  1. #1
    caliburn's Avatar
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    2000 rx melenium edition HELP PLS.

    133 psi on both cylinders, this motor had a new top end put in it the first of the year should it read more then that with a new top end? what should it read? is this bad?


  2. #2
    caliburn's Avatar
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    the book states 6.1:1 so what is that 150psi???? 133 is a long way from 150????

  3. #3
    AndinoWatercraft's Avatar
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    Wich base gasket was put on?

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    I dont know is there a way to find out? the kid is bringing it today or tomarrow, I will water test it, he said him and his gal was ridding it last week and got it up to 66 mph, the intake grate has 2 veins is this stock? the jet pump was rebuilt as well, is there a way to find out if the top end was actually rebuilt?

  6. #5
    caliburn's Avatar
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    did my own compression test 125 and 126, the sparkplugs were bone dry and yellowish looking, the wear ring on the pump looks new but they put the old prop back in after taking out the dings and grinding marks are on it, it rode good but the rpm would only get up to 6740 and speedo said 66mph, it has what looks like grey lines that run up the tank, dont know if these are the ones that need to be replaced, I went ahead and bought it for $2800, so should I go pre mix on this, and hows the compression?

  7. #6

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    Your compression is good. 130 is about par for all of the 951 motors. You mainly want both cylinders to be close in numbers. So move on. All of the grey fuel lines need to be changed out. From tank to carbs, and back to tank. Dont forget the pulse line. Get those carbs off and clean them well. The small filters will get clogged up. Remove the fuel selector valve and thoroughly clean. Ideally you should replace it, if any signs of corrosion. They are not cheap, bu neither is a new motor. If you keep existing fuel selector valve, make sure it shuts off between ON and RES. If flows thru both at same time, chunk it in trash. It WILL kill your motor when fuel gets low. Cost adds up, but new diaphragms AND needle/seats are great insurance for a smooth running ski without starting problems.

    The oil injection is not prone to failing. Usually from human error. If you dont plan to race ski or turning 8000rpm, stick with injection. Hard to beat and reliable.

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  9. #7
    caliburn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seadoo timebomb View Post
    Your compression is good. 130 is about par for all of the 951 motors. You mainly want both cylinders to be close in numbers. So move on. All of the grey fuel lines need to be changed out. From tank to carbs, and back to tank. Dont forget the pulse line. Get those carbs off and clean them well. The small filters will get clogged up. Remove the fuel selector valve and thoroughly clean. Ideally you should replace it, if any signs of corrosion. They are not cheap, bu neither is a new motor. If you keep existing fuel selector valve, make sure it shuts off between ON and RES. If flows thru both at same time, chunk it in trash. It WILL kill your motor when fuel gets low. Cost adds up, but new diaphragms AND needle/seats are great insurance for a smooth running ski without starting problems.

    The oil injection is not prone to failing. Usually from human error. If you dont plan to race ski or turning 8000rpm, stick with injection. Hard to beat and reliable.
    Thank you so very much, when I took it out and was riding it I did notice the fuel gauge was not working so when I ran the compression test again I noticed there was no fuel in it hope i did not hurt anything, there was plenty of oil in the tank, I will do what you said tomarrow, what sucks is I hve no way of knowing if this motor had rebuilt top end or not,

  10. #8
    caliburn's Avatar
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    I am replacing the grey lines with black and cleaned the fuel filter that was filled with grey matter, going to check the switch and remove the carbs is there a good place to buy needles and such ebay has a rebuild kit but does not come with needles, never rebuilt the carbs befor but have found a shop manial, seems pretty complicated.

  11. #9
    caliburn's Avatar
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    does anyone know how to trouble shoot the fuel gauge/sender? as My fuel gauge part of the gauge does not read anything, I am old school and you used to just cross over the two sending wires to see if you get a reading on the gauge or not, will this still work?

  12. #10
    Cliff's Avatar
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    Yes you can jump the wires that go to the sending unit and the gauge should read full. Most of the time the sending unit (Fuel Baffle) is the problem. Swap it when you do your hoses since you will have them off and that is half of the work. Also take the small glove box in front of the seat out for easier access.

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