08-28-2012, 05:06 AM #1
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
PLEASE HELP!!! 1993 seadoo xp cylinders are fillng up with oil
the cylinders are filling up with oil,which is causing it not to start.also it is causing starter not to crank as it should,like the battery is dead.if i wait a few minutes it will turn over as it should for a few cranks,until cylinders fill back up.does anybody know what the problem may be? also if i did away with the oil injection system and went with premixed, would that elminate the problem? and if so how exactly do i do that? any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
08-28-2012, 12:23 PM #2
Your issue is the inner crank seals that separates the rotary gear for the rotary disc valve. the gear sets in a pool of oil supplied from your oil injection tank. if you trace the the large oil lines from the tank you'll see that it goes in one side of the block and out the other as a circulation bath. So the answer is your inner crankshaft seals are just old and cracked or deteriated over the yrs as i assume its an original motor and the only way to fix it is to replace the crankshaft. It sucks that this happens but its the way its designed.
11-24-2012, 07:45 PM #3
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
does anyone know if....
i have a 1993 seadoo which has a bad innercrank shaft seal.its getting alot of oil in the cylinders,causing it to not start and acts like the battery is dead.does anyone know if i do away with the oil injection and go with premixed gas and oil,would that also solve the innercrankshaft seal problem or must i also replace that seal??any help with this ? would be greatly appreciated.
11-24-2012, 09:13 PM #4
You still have to retain the oil bath for the rotary shaft to ride in. Even if you go premix you need to retain the oil tank and lines feeding the rotary shaft cavity. You can fill the shaft cavity and plug off the lines but not recommended. Answer is no- you still need oil in the cavity and seals will still leak it into the crankcase. Must replace the inner crank seals- just the way these motors were designed.
11-28-2012, 03:27 PM #5
I have had success milking them out for a few more seasons . You will need to do away with the oil injection and go pre-mix. The intake will need to come off because there is a plastic gear inside that needs removed. Pull the intake off carefully so the rotary valve stays in proper position, not really a big deal to put it back in time if it falls off though. Buy a 1/2" 90* vacuum fitting from the auto parts store. You will need to unhook the 1/2" RV lines from the oil tank. Set a container of some sort down inside the hull and place the lower line that goes under the intake into the container. Grab the upper line that goes under the exhaust manifold and blow though it. This will help purge the remaining oil out of the RV cavity. Shove a couple paper towels under the intake side fitting and remove the line completely, allow the remaining oil to drain out. I usually take the upper hose and loop it down and connect it to the lower fitting, then cut the hose in two right above the front engine cover (this is where you will install the elbow fitting). Now you will need some oil stop leak (the kind that swells oil seals), and some heavyweight gear lube arond 95w120 or something like that. Put about 1-1.5oz of the stop leak in through the LOWER tube (under the intake), then add the gear lube until it gets close to the top of your tubing. Connect the 2 with your elbow fitting and a couple zip ties. Re-install your intake with blue loc-tite on every bolt and hope for the best. I've done several customer machines that way and gotten an extra 2-3 seasons out of them. The seals are not replaceable, you have to replace the whole crank.
11-29-2012, 04:39 PM #6
I have had good luck with this same process. The only thing I do different is I use a full quart bottle of Lucas stop leak. That stuff is thick and will not run through the seals as fast. But it still lubes the gears. You can do this without pulling the oil pump. Just take the RV loop out of the system.
01-06-2013, 10:04 PM #7
- Join Date
- Feb 2011
Or, but a valve on the oil line and shut it off when you are not riding. You must be religious in following the the on/off procedure before cranking or you will fry your engine if a few minutes. And dont let your friends borrow it.
02-26-2013, 06:17 PM #8
03-01-2013, 10:15 AM #9
This is most likely the seal that is on the rotary valve shaft leaking, stop trying to band aid it and fix it. Pull the carbs, the rotary valve cover, the rotary valve, and use the special tool to remove the rotary valve shaft. Don't forget to pinch the oil lines before you begin or you will have a mess. That seal on the shaft is your culprit. Replace and reassemble and have good days on the water.
A troublesome ski with some half ass fixes leads to bad days on the lake... just my $.02
06-16-2015, 03:39 AM #10
- Join Date
- Oct 2010
Good thread! Questions..
I believe this is my problem on a 97 XP 800. Checking now to see if I do get oil coming out with no plugs in. I kept thinking it was a starter, high compression (uses 93 octane - Lvl1 kit) or cabling issue but could not find any real electrical issues when checking everything and swapping parts.
Questions - I suspect that the engine needs to be pulled to replace this seal so this is not a cheap fix and no one will probably fix it on my trailer with the engine in the hull.
It looks as though the cases need to be split to pull the rotary valve out according to a manual I have. If this is true then this is a major job and I probably might as well replace the block or have it rebuild...or live with the problem.
What I don't understand is if the valve is lubed by the oil bath, why doesn't the entire tank of oil leak down into the case as it sits during the winter months. I left mine sitting for almost two years and the oil tank is still filled near the top???
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