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  1. #1
    Matrix 4-Tec spannerspencer's Avatar
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    should i renew valve stem oil seals??

    hi guys. im rebuilding a rxp for the first time. (2005 66hrs) as after being stored for 2 years, its snapped two exhaust valves upon start up.

    luckily damage isnt too bad.

    so im going to fit riva stainless exhaust valve set, and just wonder if i should change the stem seals?

    only removing 6 exhaust and 2 inlet valves.

    cheers

    spencer


  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by spannerspencer View Post
    hi guys. im rebuilding a rxp for the first time. (2005 66hrs) as after being stored for 2 years, its snapped two exhaust valves upon start up.

    luckily damage isnt too bad.

    so im going to fit riva stainless exhaust valve set, and just wonder if i should change the stem seals?

    only removing 6 exhaust and 2 inlet valves.

    cheers

    spencer
    I would upgrade all of it, since you will have it out already. We are in the same situation. Due to poor economy here in the states, I went back on wrenching again. I did not have anytime playing with my 2004 RXP. It sat for 3 years. I think the only difference with your situation and mine is you hit the starter button. That's why it broke. I am moving my motor inch by inch manually because I ride salt water and I know my engine inhales salt water air = corrosion big time . Don't cut corners on a rebuild, since you got everything out. Just my 02 cents. good luck ! Every time I work on an engine, I tell the customer what part of the engine will be exposed and what part might needs to be replaced since it's there in the open. Some of them tells me to replace it even if it's not bad, some customer who have low budget tells me to just replace the bad part. I see more of the low Budget customers coming back and spending twice I think You get the picture

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  4. #3
    rangermtb5's Avatar
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    should i renew valve stem oil seals??

    If you are going in there, you may as well. Not too expensive either

  5. #4
    i hate my bipolar disorder its great
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    they on the forum? how many people get the valve guides done aswell?

  6. #5
    Matrix 4-Tec spannerspencer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jammer 1 View Post
    I would upgrade all of it, since you will have it out already. We are in the same situation. Due to poor economy here in the states, I went back on wrenching again. I did not have anytime playing with my 2004 RXP. It sat for 3 years. I think the only difference with your situation and mine is you hit the starter button. That's why it broke. I am moving my motor inch by inch manually because I ride salt water and I know my engine inhales salt water air = corrosion big time . Don't cut corners on a rebuild, since you got everything out. Just my 02 cents. good luck ! Every time I work on an engine, I tell the customer what part of the engine will be exposed and what part might needs to be replaced since it's there in the open. Some of them tells me to replace it even if it's not bad, some customer who have low budget tells me to just replace the bad part. I see more of the low Budget customers coming back and spending twice I think You get the picture
    thanks jammer, i have a riva intake and am chucking that. i want to run the oem air box, and its deflects water. (i ride salt only) and this is the main reason the previous owner had the engine valves go. (seen you posts on air boxes)

    how to i change the oil seals? they look like they are part of a "top hat" that is pressed in over the valve guide?

    if is ok to fog oil into the throttle body when leaving ski for shorts periods of time (never leave a ski for more than two months anyhow)
    just wondered if the fog oil would get past the intercooler fins ok. just dont want it to collect on the intercooler, only to be blown threw next time i use it.

    thanks

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  8. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by spannerspencer View Post
    thanks jammer, i have a riva intake and am chucking that. i want to run the oem air box, and its deflects water. (i ride salt only) and this is the main reason the previous owner had the engine valves go. (seen you posts on air boxes)
    Spencer, Thanks for reading some of my post. I am going to make this short ass possible. I kept the OEM air box, because there was nothing wrong with it, except for the air deflection fins. I cut those = pure air flow give or take Now the option that I like about this design was the ability to hold water in a chamber and let air pass through on top of the water. Let me explain, water is heavier than air, so the water settles in that chamber. Air floats in speed of suction, the stock deflectors is actually a deflector, it's some sort of a Filter I don't know if you can follow me on this one Butt water and air can be mixed in Turbulence. Because of the 2 self draining plugs under the holding tank of the stock air box it can drain before your super charger can take in big gulfs of water at 4,000-40,000 + RPM.
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  9. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by spannerspencer View Post

    how to i change the oil seals? they look like they are part of a "top hat" that is pressed in over the valve guide?
    spencer, it is very important that YOU are up to the task of doing this job. In any engine, there's 2 parts of an engine, to me anyway The upper part which controls the amount of fuel and spark and timing and the "BeerDart especial ...... "KABOOOOOM" then the lower part of the engine were the " KaBOOM" just transfer the power to move the lower mechanical parts of the engine without BeerDart's KABOOOOOOOM Spencer, I am not trying in anyway to put you down in your abilities to tackle this since I don't know you and what you can do. I am just sharing what I went through in experience. I am in No way an expert or "God" in this website, nor do I only wrench or a tuner in jet skis Basically, YOU have to rebuild The head = upper part of your engine. Just an advise from me. Look in the Jerry's online store. it's all there to bullet proof your engine and get you back ASAP in Salt H2O Buy the things you need and don't buy things that will stress your engine. Try not to keep up with the Jones's

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  11. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by spannerspencer View Post

    if is ok to fog oil into the throttle body when leaving ski for shorts periods of time (never leave a ski for more than two months anyhow)
    just wondered if the fog oil would get past the intercooler fins ok. just dont want it to collect on the intercooler, only to be blown threw next time i use it.

    thanks
    Spencer, The RXT has a port to fog the throttle body. I think it was a plastic yellow cap. I fog mine all the time When I see smoke coming out of my 4 Tec on the initial start up before I ride, That means I have done all I can to preserve the internals ass much ass I can. I created a system on how to winterized my ski. I live in Santa Barbara. My winterized system is for people like me that, for some reason can't ride every time as one would want My intercooler was coated with thin film of oil last time I checked, No corrosion I did not notice any performance drop. I hope this help you out

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  13. #9
    i hate my bipolar disorder its great
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    where can said seals be found?

  14. #10
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    Pretty sure its part number 8 for the 2005 on this link:
    http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....e=13&A=125&B=3

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