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  1. #21
    Yamaha artisan
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Madison, WI, USA
    Posts
    2,335
    +1
    33
    I broke through a few also when I was using a 2mm ball allen wrench. I like that dental floss idea!


  2. #22

    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Delaware, USA
    Posts
    63
    +1
    1
    Ok. Almost done. Used the service manual and the links provided earlier for assembly.





    When I tested the pop-off, I had to submerge the needle valve in liquid. A film of liquid didn't do it. It didn't pop. It started hissing around the seat.

    The pump side leaked when it was at 70psi. Tightened it up and there are no leaks.

    Low Speed Screw: 0
    High Speed Screw: 1/2 turn

    Pilot: 87.5
    Main: 117.5
    Valve Seat: 1.2
    Spring (from rebuild kit): Silver 115 gm
    Pop-off: ~82 psi

    Does the low-speed (silver) adjuster have a spring and is it normal for it to be at zero turns? I don't see a spring anywhere, but it is listed as a carb part. I wonder if I lost it.

    Going to start on the next carb in the meantime. I will come back to the adjusters, pop-off and stuff.

  3. #23

    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Delaware, USA
    Posts
    63
    +1
    1
    I found some stuff in the Riva D-Plate instructions http://www.rivaracing.com/instructions/ry1819.pdf:

    INSTALLATION RECOMMENDATIONS & TIPS


    Carburetor mixture screws may need to be adjusted.
    Settings will vary due to altitude, climate and level of modification to craft.
    Tamper caps will need to be removed in order to make adjustments.

    We recommend the following at sea-level:
    Stock, Stage I to Stage II GP1200R, XL1200Ltd & XLT1200:
    Stock low speed; 1-1/4 +/- high speed.
    Stock pop off and needle & seat.
    Add .020Ē clearance between accelerator arm and cam.
    (These are starting points only. Always tune using an aftermarket tachometer and check spark plugs.)
    I have a d-plate. Should I start off with these adjuster and accel pump settings?

  4. #24

    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Delaware, USA
    Posts
    63
    +1
    1
    Carb #2's high speed was 1 1/4 turns. The low speed was zero, and the low speed did not have a spring on it.

  5. #25

    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Delaware, USA
    Posts
    63
    +1
    1
    Ok. Some lessons learned:

    Make sure your screw driver fits the jets perfectly and snugly. I chipped the edge of one of the main jets. I ground down a slot driver and it came out, but they were very tight. Will soak in PB longer next time. Saw this in another post, albeit later.

    The other carbs were so much easier to clean: Dunk the whole carb in carb cleaner, then use very hot soapy water (with dawn). Spot-remove corrosion with CLR if minor.

    So the total causality count is:

    1 check valve
    3 check valve grommets
    1 117.5 main jet

    I found some info on stock popoff:

    Quote Originally Posted by OsideBill View Post
    I use a 0-60 most but I have a 100 psi gauge I swap out when doing stock carbs they pop in the mid to high 80's
    I have to wait a few days for some parts, then I can test them.

  6. #26

    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Delaware, USA
    Posts
    63
    +1
    1
    I am curious to see what #3's high speed setting is. Will it be different than #2's because of the accel pump?

  7. #27

    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Delaware, USA
    Posts
    63
    +1
    1
    More stock pop-off information here:

    1200LTD 1.2 n/s Stock Pop-off pressure? (http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=92214)


    Quote Originally Posted by OsideBill View Post
    I got 82 psi on the ones I tested 1.2 N&S and gold 115gr springs

    Quote Originally Posted by bheston View Post
    Ok - I put the gold springs in an I get 80psi, 80psi and 82psi in each of the 3 carbs - I don't think I can get closer. Confirmed the arms were even with the carb bodies and threw 'er back together. Crank it up and it sounds goooood. No lag and quick snap. This is a rebuilt engine so now it's time to water test.

    So for the next person looking for the pop-off pressure for a Yamaha XL1200LTD power valve, use the gold springs and you should get about 82 psi.

    Thanks for the help. I may be asking more questions after the water test.

    Quote Originally Posted by OsideBill View Post
    That will be fine for stock carbs, make sure the accel pump is funtioning too. I put some wd-40 in it and make sure it pumps out the spray nozzles in carb 1 & 3
    ^^ I was going ask about accel pump testing, or rebuilding.. I will try the WD40 trick.

  8. #28
    sub'n for a good thread and I will be attempting this soon as well.

    Thanks

  9. #29

    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Delaware, USA
    Posts
    63
    +1
    1
    ...waiting on parts order right now..
    On hold until I get the grommets, check valve, and main jet in. All damaged in the process.

    The other 2 carbs came apart easy and seem to be OK shape.

    I took the the finished one apart and checked the jet and needle valve seating and rechecked the pop-off. Same thing, came right in @ 82 psi.

    I am contemplating the drilled return mod. Not sure yet. It's easy.

    For reference, I have included links to many valuable guides and posts during the course of this rebuild.

    Additionally, here are all of the carb threads i have subscriptions to:


  10. #30

    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Delaware, USA
    Posts
    63
    +1
    1
    Some more pics:

    Self-tapping screw to remove high and low speed adjustment tamper plugs. You can re-use the screw:




    Take your throttle parts


    and zip-tie them for easier dipping:



    My pop-off and leak tester. Super cheap Harbor Freight crap ($7):



    One of the other carbs:



    After soda blasting:


    I have a 3 gal compressor, and blasting is tedious with it. It's OK for spot-cleaning.


    I loaded the Service Manual PDF onto my Kindle Keyboard and stick it into a plastic bag for outdoor working. I have a laptop, but it's horrible in the bright sun:


    This works great because it's not touch-screen and it's easy to read in the sun. It's slow to navigate though PDFs. I use my PC to find the page numbers and use the Kindle as a field reference.

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