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  1. #1

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    95 sl 650 battery keeps going dead

    The battery keeps going dead on my 1995 SL650. It stays charged if the ski gets ridden regularly but if it sits for two or three days the battery goes dead on it. There is no spark when the tether is pulled off so it doesnt seem like it would be the tether switch staying in contact. If I disconnect the battery it holds its charge. There is no MFD on the ski or any lights or any other accessories that would drain the battery. Anybody else experience this problem? I dont have a clue as to what could be causing this. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Is there a bilge pump?

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    No, There is no bilge pump.

  4. #4
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    Stick a multi meter in line between the red battery cable and the red terminal on the battery set to Amp or Current mode to see if there is a current draw on the battery. If not, then a bad battery?

  5. #5

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    Please note that if I disconnect the battery, it holds the charge - so far for over a week, so I have eliminated the battery being bad. This is something new & I have no idea what could be causing it. I will try the multimeter test on it though. Im sure there is something drawing power from the battery, but there are no gauges, lights or any other accessories on the machine. It`s an SL 650 STD so its a stripped down version without trim or any other bells & whistles.

  6. #6
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haigskid View Post
    Please note that if I disconnect the battery, it holds the charge - so far for over a week, so I have eliminated the battery being bad. This is something new & I have no idea what could be causing it. I will try the multimeter test on it though. Im sure there is something drawing power from the battery, but there are no gauges, lights or any other accessories on the machine. It`s an SL 650 STD so its a stripped down version without trim or any other bells & whistles.
    It does have one whistle. A 12v powered buzzer for temp and oil level. Do you premix or run the original injection? Once you meter the positive cable and see if there is a load, you can start disconnecting wires in the ebox to determine what is drawing the load. When the meter drops to 0 draw, you found the offending wire.....

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Things that can cause battery drain while sitting;
    LR voltage regulator parasitic current drain Yellow to Black/ground
    Stator charging coil not isolated from ground
    Buzzer?
    Start solenoid leakage through starter motor
    Damp Dirt/grime on the exposed battery/contacts allowing current leakage
    What else is there in 650 STD?

    A multimeter set to Amps mode (or milliamps) should allow you to track down the faulty item. When the meter is in Amp/milliamps mode do NOT connect it across the full battery voltage.

  8. #8

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    It still has injection. Never heard any buzzer go off, though im not saying it doesnt have one. I did the miiliamp check and it is showing approximately 180 on the 0.5 mA scale. If i open up the E-box, what should I use to re-seal it? Also, given the approximate mA reading, any clue as to what may be the culprit?

  9. #9
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    The ebox should have an O ring around the perimeter to seal it. Lightly greasing the O ring will help the seal.....

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haigskid View Post
    It still has injection. Never heard any buzzer go off, though im not saying it doesnt have one. I did the miiliamp check and it is showing approximately 180 on the 0.5 mA scale.

    ... given the approximate mA reading, any clue as to what may be the culprit?
    180 milliamps is the reading? That is a significant parasitic drain which would indeed run the battery down.

    The buzzer may have failed such that it no longer can actually make any noise, but still can draw current.

    Work your way through the electrical box circuits. Unplug one wire at a time until you see the milliamps reading drop. Then narrow it down to a specific conponent.

    Note: Do NOT press the Start button while the meter is in the battery circuit. The starter motor power draw is far greater than the capacity of the ammeter.

    Also be very careful to not let the metal shell of the electrical box touch the battery posts. Use a rag or towel to cover the battery top while you work.

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