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  1. #1

    starts right up then stalls, then hard start. but it will start.

    Can someone point me in the right direction please. This is a 99 slth 700 red engine. I have done probably all the upgrades. ignition kit, fuel lines, fuel selector, I rebuilt the carbs but not with OEM kits. I have the OEM kits on order.
    It fires right up but then it will stall then hard start. This is a cold engine. As it warms up it gets better, I can run it, then it will idle decent. If you shut it off when warm it starts better. I have done the warm start orange wire bulliten.
    When its cold like I said it fires right up and it seems like it uses the fuel it has then it seems like its starved for fuel. So to get it restarted you would have to give it full choke and crank away. Sometimes I give it differant amounts of choke to get it restarted. Top end does not seem to be a problem at all. It will do 45mph. I know the rpm's are over 6000 but not sure exactly what the top end rpm is.
    The carb kits I used this spring were not polaris kits, so I have those ordered as I have read not to even try the aftermarket kits.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Try priming the engine with some fuel directly down the carb throats when it dies after the initial cold start. That will tell you if the carbs are simply run dry and starved for fuel.

  3. #3
    I want to make sure I have this right. Leave the air filter off, start it then when it stalls and it will. I will put a couple of squirts down each throat of the carb. Then if she fires right up I would figure I have a fuel starvation issue?
    One other question when I look down the carb throats and I squeeze the throttle should'nt I be able to see fuel squirt into the carb? I don't see any. Now this is with the jet ski not running. But there is still some pressure in the fuel system. So I would figure I should still see at least a little squirt.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 250super View Post
    I want to make sure I have this right. Leave the air filter off, start it then when it stalls and it will. I will put a couple of squirts down each throat of the carb. Then if she fires right up I would figure I have a fuel starvation issue? Correct

    One other question when I look down the carb throats and I squeeze the throttle should'nt I be able to see fuel squirt into the carb? I don't see any. Now this is with the jet ski not running. But there is still some pressure in the fuel system. So I would figure I should still see at least a little squirt.
    There is very little 'pressure' in the fuel system once it has been sitting.

    The carburetors should always have fuel sitting inside, as should the accelerator pumps. In fact, on those carburetors which have accelerator pumps, some guys use the accelerator pumps as a sort of primer. They squeeze the throttle a few times and the accelerator pumps 'prime' the engine.

    What is key is that the fuel supply system from fuel pump inlet all the way back to the fuel tank must be AIR tight. If air can leak into the fuel system then the liquid fuel can drain back into the tank rather than staying in the fuel lines ready to be pumped into the carbs.

    If the fuel pump and carb internal valves are not perfect seals then fuel can drain away while the engine is sitting.

    A good fuel system will hold the fuel in the fuel lines and carburetors for a long time, ready to deliver fuel when the engine comes to life.
    Last edited by K447; 09-04-2012 at 03:30 PM. Reason: Not all carbs have accel pumps

  5. #5
    Squeezing the throttle for a primer makes since. Because that is sure what it sounds like it needs. In fact I was thinking about adding a primer. But will for sure try your method. I know if the ski sits and is not running it does hold a little pressure like it should, by releasing the gas cap. So I would think I am releasing the pressure in the other direction, through the carbs. I'm still going to go through the carbs again with OEM kits. From what I have read thats what I should have done in the first place.

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    That ski does not have an accel pump on it stock.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Modest air pessure in the fuel tank is normal and does not change how the system needs to work.

  8. #8
    I have read about pressing the bilge button when starting the ski. They say the jet ski will start much easier. Would my model of jet ski I have. 99 polaris slth 700 red engine. Would this be a possibility for my jet ski. I have not tried this yet. They say if this works then you would have a bad starter solinoid. Any thoughts????

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    It that makes it start you most likely have a bad LR module. Are you using any throttle while you start the engine? I usually pump the throttle while cranking and let off once its running.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow What does the Bilge button and the Orange wires actually do?

    Quote Originally Posted by 250super View Post
    I have read about pressing the bilge button when starting the ski. They say the jet ski will start much easier. Would my model of jet ski I have. 99 polaris slth 700 red engine. Would this be a possibility for my jet ski. I have not tried this yet. They say if this works then you would have a bad starter solinoid. Any thoughts????
    Be careful with what you read on the Internet!

    The Bilge button on Polaris carburetor watercraft does exactly one thing; it provides direct battery power to the Orange wires. The actual bilge pump, of course, is connected to the Orange wires.

    Note; On machines with electric quick trim or PERC electric Reverse these are also powered by the Orange wires.

    What is useful about the Bilge button is that it directly powers the very same Orange wires that the LR module is supposed to automatically switch power onto when the engine is rotating. If the LR module is not doing this job properly then the Bilge button can be used to force battery power onto the Orange wires.

    For all 2000-2004 carburetor engines, and any 1996-2000 red domestic engine which has had the PWC-00-05 service bulletin update done, the Orange wire also provides power to the Ignition system CDI module. If the Orange wire on these engines does not have power then there will be no spark.

    This is why pressing the Orange button is a useful diagnostic. If the engine will not start without pressing the Bilge button, but WILL start when the Bilge button is held down, then there is something wrong with the Orange wire power delivery to the CDI.

    Often this means;
    the LR module is faulty,
    or stator charging coil has a problem,
    or the battery voltage while cranking is marginal.

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