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  1. #1

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    regulator on exhaust..

    So, I have searched the forum, and aside from broken information here and there..

    I had a failed water regulator on my ski.. turns out the inner diaphragm was almost completly gone.. I have one of those non-adjustable types.. I put it all back together, and I found the spring that is on it currently, is Really, Really stiff.. and after getting it on the water, I noticed the boat would only turn 6750 RPMS.. whereas before, with the regulator failed, it would run 6850-6950 all day long, and had a ton of low end and midrange.. it was kind of a slug after fixing the regulator.. I didnt realize how much of a performance issue that would create..
    I ordered a new spring, hoping that possibly the wrong spring had been installed in it.. because the spring that is on it now is so strong, that it almost separates the housing from the assembly..

    Also my fuel pump wnet out that day as well, so that could also be the main issue with the rpms and sluggishness.. so I will fix that, and see how that goes..

    my next step is to get the raves where I want them.. So if I understand correctly, the raves should be adjusted vice versa from the water regulator? as if the raves are down, the regulator should be out?

    I really liked the midrange the ski had before.. it could stand some low end, but it really kicked on the top end, My goal is to balance out the performance all around..


  2. #2
    caliburn's Avatar
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    sorry I cant be of help but was wondering more about this as well as I just went through and cleaned my valves that looked as thouth they never had befor and are all scared up, I put them back in and wanted to check that one on the exaust as well did not get far as it was differant then the other 2, but my rx only does 6740 rpms and thought it was saposed to be like6900 as well, so I wonder if that is a issue I have

  3. #3

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    well, the regulator is different from the valves, although the same housing is used for both.. I would imagine that if the valves were sticking, then performance would suffer.. I believe they should be able to slide freely.. from what ive read though, they shouldnt restrict the rpms, they just "move" the torque band based on rpms.. like a cam in a pushrod engine..

    the regulator is supposed to work off of pump pressure.. low idle, low pressure, the valve will be open, and spray water into the tuned pipe assembly (the hose on top of the exhaust tube near the motor), this cools things off and helps with sound, and theres some tuning theory at work with the air density of the exhuast, etc.. when the rpms are high(er) the valve closes, and restricts water to the tuned pipe, drying things up and allowing the tuned pipe to work as it should.. there is always some water being sprayed through a restricted fitting into the water box assembly.. to keep the exhaust cool and from burning out couplings.. etc..

    what I dont know, is at what rpms, the water regulator should begin to close.. ?
    mine is non adjustable, and im thinking the spring inside is too strong, which is allowing the valve to stay open throughout the whole rpm range.. im not sure if it is the stock spring, or some handy-dandy job from the past owners, or what.. the diaphragm was totally gone, so the water kind of bypassed before.. i have no idea if it was working, or how much water was being sprayed into the tuned pipe.
    the seadoo manual says that the water regulator should be considered when diagnosing degraded performance.. I have read that the setting is dependent on the rave valve setting.. the factory setting on the regulator, states cap even with top of housing, then two clicks out.. im also reading that the rave valves can be adjusted to be opposite of the water regulator.. adjusted down/in for low end power, and adjusted up/out for high end speed.. then i read the water regulator should be adjusted all the way down, so im just confused about it all.... especially considering that trying to adjust both at the same time is going to be complicated to figure out the best position..
    I have no way of knowing, that a replacement spring, would be the best setting or not.. I guess im down to pulling the tamper cap off, and ride testing until im happy..

  4. #4

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    You can always try taking the water pipe off the tuned pipe and feed it out the hood so you can see when / how much water is flowing.

    While it's not attached and only for a very short burst but see if with no water going to the tuned pipe you get better peak revs.

    At higher revs no water should be going to the pipe.

  5. #5

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    So I pulled the regulator again last night, finally recieved my spring for it.. nope the spring is the same, but I did notice the tamper proof cap had been tampered with, so I pulled it off, and it looks like the previous owner marked the red cap with a pencil..
    I turned the red cap in , then out 3 turns, or about 2 clicks out past level.. im going to see if this makes a big difference, it was previously 2 clicks down.. (my rave valves are all the way in as well, previous owner setting, so im not sure if I should touch those yet.. )
    Its just hard to believe that a couple of clicks would make that big of a difference with such a strong spring..


    hope fully can get the fuel pump in.. but rain is forecast for the weekend.. dangit..

  6. #6
    surferd15's Avatar
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    They make a difference on performance, all the red caps on the raves and waterbox can be adjusted to your liking. Most of the waterbox ones do leak from the the factory due to the metal clip they use that punctures a hole in the bladder. Adjust it to factory spec and then tweak it from there. Waterbox factory adjustment, turn it all the way in (down) till it bottoms out and then go out (up) 3 full turns, the raves are usually flush with the black top (meaning the red cap is even with the black piece around it) I ran my waterbox 1 full turn in and my raves almost all the way down and half a turn out. But my skis were not stock.

  7. #7

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    OK, so finally got the ski running again, after a fuel pump and air compressor problem..

    Took it out to the lake yesterday, and preset the adjustment according to factory.. Whoa 6950-7000 RPMS! thing was a beast!
    I was playing with the adjustment a little bit to see if it made any difference, I put the adjustment down all the way, no real change.. I couldnt really tell if it was pulling harder or not.. still turning 6900-6950 rpms..
    So, could control the rpms by about 25-50 rpms.. but I did notice the speed changed quite a bit.. with the adjustment at factory setting + two more clicks out, 6950-7000 @ 64-65 mph.. with it turned all the way in, 6900-6950 @ 60-62 mph..

    So I just set it at factory, and left it there.. rode around a bit, raced some jet boats.. had some fun, then about 100 yards from the dock on the way back in, mid throttle. it stopped. nothing.. wtf?
    so I crank it back up, and all I hear is bang, pow, skip, ping, bang, ping, pong, crunch, rumble,
    Turned it right off, and put it on the trailer..
    Damn.. well at least its the end of the summer..

    i have no idea what happened yet..

  8. #8
    diamondwatercraft's Avatar
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    When you get that thing tore down please let us know. I will be reading.

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