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  1. #1

    2002 Genesis I Cooling Problem Polaris Newbie

    I am helping a friend with a Genesis I. Here is a little background.

    The ski lost compression and fuel pressure last year. Over the winter he had a local marina install an SBT rebuild and a new fuel pump. Since he has gotten it back it just has not run right. He asked me to take a look at it for him.

    My experience has been stricly with Seadoos. Anyway, at first look, the exhaust hose that runs from the manifold to the waterbox was never clamped at the manifold end. I removed the hose and it was completely burnt inside. The local Polaris dealer who will not even look at Polaris watercraft was glad to sell him a new hose. I replaced it and clamped it tight.

    The ski now ran to around 7000rpms but quickly overheated. Prior to me changing the hose it would only rev to 4500rpms. I feel we are going in the right direction, but something is still restricting water flow.

    Please advise me on where to look and how to look for obstructions in the cooling system. I did remove the small hose at the front of the manifold the check the screen and to check flow while running in the water. The little bit of water that came out was super hot and the screen was clean.

    Any and all help from guys that know what they are talking about will be greatly appreciated. You won't hurt my feelings if you explain how the cooling water flows through this machine.

    Thanks ahead of time. Tim C
    Last edited by K447; 09-08-2012 at 09:32 PM.

  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada

    Arrow Cooling water flow path in the Polaris domestic engine

    Well, my signature link should provide a lot of basic info to get you familiar with these Ficht fuel injected engines.

    The cooling system is essentially the same as the red domestic carburetor engines.

    I suggest you start checking the entire water cooling system from end to end. Start with the jet pump where the water feed is located. Remove the jet pump and verify that the plastic intake screen is clear. Also check the plastic water cooling tube for cracks or blockage.

    Edit; It is possible for the metal casting on the pump exit nozzle to crack if the plastic (was metal on some of the early model years) cooling water tube was not properly positioned when the jet pump is bolted in. Make sure the metal casting is undamaged and the cooling water tube is correctly seated into the housing with a lightly greased o-ring in the groove.

    Also make sure the water tube is fully seated but is not too long or too short. Extra o-rings can be added or removed as needed from the forward (pump base) end of the water tube. These forward o-rings are NOT there to seal, they are simply used as spacers to position the rear end of the water tube snugly inside the exit nozzle opening without excess force.

    If you need to remove the water tube from the hull then the hose inside the hull must be removed from the nipple end of the water tube. Typically there is sealant holding the tube in place. After working the tube out, clean away the old sealant around and inside the hole. Be careful to not damage the square shouldered rubber gasket that is trapped between the pump base and the hull. It is supposed to seal against the water tube when reinserted. That rubber seal is often not 100% effective, hence the sealant that you may want to reapply around the stepped end of the water tube before reinstalling. Make sure none of the sealant gets inside the end of the plastic water tube.

    Then move inside the hull. Find the main water feed hose at the base of the jet pump, right side (inside end of the cooling water feed tube). Remove that and check for kinks or other issues. Then carry on with every other water hose.

    The main water flow comes in from the jet pump and goes into the big exhaust pipe water jacket. From there the water flows into the cylinder jackets and up through the cylinder heads. Across the top of the heads is a water manifold bar. Water flows through the water bar, then through the thermostat housing at the rear end.

    Imside that housing is the thermostat and a pressure bypass valve. Both need to be clean and undamaged. Sometimes the plastic tip on the bypass valve gets worn and can jam. Replace if worn.

    Water exits the bottom of the thermostat housing and goes out the rear of the hull.

    On the large exhaust pipe there is a small hose loop, which you have checked at one end. BOTH ends need to be unclogged.

    If you are testing on the trailer using the reverse flush fitting, make sure the thermostat housing internals are in fact present and working. Otherwise the reverse water flow does not actually flow as it should. Proper reverse flow means the majority of the water flow exits inside the jet pump nozzle, not out the exhaust hull fitting.
    Last edited by K447; 09-10-2012 at 08:08 PM. Reason: Added cooling water tube details

  3. #3
    Thanks for the reply. My friend is at his wits end with this ski. I have assured him it shouldn't be a big deal to get it figured out. I am checking the ski in the water in basically neutral and with it tied off. I thought the flow of the water was into the rail and thermostat first. I will start at the other end tomorrow and hopefully find some obstructions. I'll post my findings. Tim C

  4. #4
    OK, it's gonna be a pretty simple fix. The cast nozzle of the pump which houses the black plastic screen is broken. Where the plastic tube attaches to the nozzle it is completely broken off. The local former Polaris dealer who is closed today, has 2 parts skis. I am going to try to get the part from them. If they don't have it I am going to post here in the WTB parts section. Thanks K447.

  5. #5
    One more thing. Would you know of any other year and models that might have the same nozzle? Thanks Tim C

  6. #6
    Local dealer had the part and only charged $40. The restricted exhaust hose and this broken nozzle being replaced fixed the ski. It was out on Lake Erie today turning just under 7000rpms and no overheating. Genesis I lives to ride another day.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    Quote Originally Posted by tjcin View Post
    Local dealer had the part and only charged $40.

    The restricted exhaust hose and this broken nozzle being replaced fixed the ski. It was out on Lake Erie today turning just under 7000rpms and no overheating.

    Genesis i lives to ride another day.

  8. #8
    I like pipes. I love boost Mr. GP1800's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Milwaukee WI
    Glad it was a simple fix.

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