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  1. #1

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    Idle bypass valve

    The attached photo is of my idle bypass valve (i think). I pulled it on a quest to fix an issue with my idle. I am concerned with the rust on it. Any thoughts on the rust? Is there any way to check to see if it is operating correctly? Thanks in advance.
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  2. #2
    caliburn's Avatar
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    dont know much about it, rust is not to bad,clean it up with some fogging oil, does it work off of vacume or electric?

  3. #3
    Dont worry about the rust. The only test you can do is to listen to it operate when you put on the key and take it off. You should hear it reset.

    Never try this with the valve out of the throttle body. When it does a reset, it actuates until it bottoms out, then it reverses and opens up a certain amount for proper start at high idle. If you try to run it out of the throttle body, it will run the actuator right off the end and destroy it.

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  5. #4

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    It is off of an 06 RXT. I assume electric.

  6. #5

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    Your IBV is likely shot. I had similar issue on my 02, idle was bouncing between 1600-2200 rpm. Diagnosed it by swapping out the IBV from my RXT and it settled 1650-1900. Changed plugs and it narrowed idle range even more. I had similar rust on the end of the valve- cleaned it up but made no diff- had to be replaced. Ieven tried a shot of lube down behind the rubber boot. The bad news is retail is $220. Dealer cost on these are $145. I searched everywhere for the IBV from the OEM. I found some that were close but not quite. Bit the bullet and grabbed one from dealer.

  7. #6

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    Just an update... Last week I went for a ride with my wife. She isn't keen on going at top speed, but I told her that based on the issues we had been seeing at some point I wanted to run flat out for a while to see what would happen. When we started out my idle was going from 1600 to over 2000 RPM, over and over, in the initial no wake zone at the launch, and with no throttle applied. When I did throttle up to try to stay at around 2200RPM+, the engine revved up and down from 2200 to 2900 and kept going up and down on its own, just like it did in the no wake zone. I was keeping the throttle constant and used a small wedge to ensure it wasn't my finger doing it. We rode for an hour with the tach never going over 5900 RPM and had the same "almost stalling" issue every time when we hit the no wake zones. After a brief break we rode back north. After the first section that we were on plane at below 6000 RPM, the engine stalled as we came to a no wake zone. I left the key in and pressed the starter to start the engine but the engine turned over and would not start. I took the key off, waited a few moments, and put it back in. The engine started right up and idled at 1700+ to 1800 RPM, pretty much normal. I then decided to run wide open the rest of the way, slowing only for no wake zones. All the sudden the ski seemed like new. Where I used to only be at 7920 RPM maximum, now I was over 8000 RPM, almost touching 8100 RPM. When I came to no wake zones I didn't feather the throttle to keep from stalling like so many times in the past, but I just let off of the throttle and the ski idled at about 1700+, with no signs of stalling. I ran wide open for a long distance and my ski drank a ton of fuel in the process, but it seemed that the demon was worked out. Is it possible that all I needed to do was run WOT for an extended period of time to "blow the carbon out"? I hadn't been running WOT at all for a number of seasons due to the request of my passenger. I want to swap out the IBV but it is expensive and I truly don't want to throw parts at the ski without them fixing her. I also will probably need to get the CanDoo to reset a few things as well. In all that would be $650 or so and it is a lot to spend if it doesn't fix the issue. As stated before the fuel is always fresh, 93 octane, and I run Startron in it at every fill up.

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